I will but I mean when I take them in and out the little tabs scratch the battery itself
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I will but I mean when I take them in and out the little tabs scratch the battery itself
ahhh -- i have sony thats a little beat up that does the same thing but i can get it to clear the battery connection if I push it toward the + side of the battery and then take the - side out first.
Did you cut off the surface mount tabs? Maybe I'm not seeing the pics correctly but it looks like you soldered to the top of the battery connections and not to the surface mount solder point?
That could def be an issue if so. you dont to solder on a shiney piece of metal that can bend or it will break off.
If your surface mount solder tabs are still there bend them up and solder to those -- throw some electrical tape to keep them from shorting and your all set.
That could def be an issue if so. you dont to solder on a shiney piece of metal that can bend or it will break off.
If your surface mount solder tabs are still there bend them up and solder to those -- throw some electrical tape to keep them from shorting and your all set.
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if you did cut off the tabs get a file and scratch up the back end of the battery connections and solder to that side... not ideal but will work okay -- stay away from any metal that can bend though
ok thanks I did cut them off but I will just order a new one I wanna get some other stuff anyway. If I would spray the inside of my mod with truck bed liner, You think that would protect from shorts? I mean Il still use tape where it is 100% touching but I mean for extra protection.
And thanks for all that help!
If you use electrical tape along the tabs then that's fine -- im not sure of how well the truck liner insulates to be honest -- but if you tape things up too will not hurt anything.
Glad to help man.
Glad to help man.
I've done a few but nothing to show off really -- wood dual 18650 mech and a mosfet build in a rushed 3d printed enclosure.
I have a dna40 clone en route that I'm working on a 3d printed enclosure for, should be here soon
once i get it in hand I want to measure the screen and how long the cable for the screen is so I can finiish the design and print up the case -- if it comes out decent looking I'll post some pics -- although aesthetics is not my strong suit I'm better with the electronics and technical side of things.
I have a dna40 clone en route that I'm working on a 3d printed enclosure for, should be here soon
once i get it in hand I want to measure the screen and how long the cable for the screen is so I can finiish the design and print up the case -- if it comes out decent looking I'll post some pics -- although aesthetics is not my strong suit I'm better with the electronics and technical side of things.
I've done a few but nothing to show off really -- wood dual 18650 mech and a mosfet build in a rushed 3d printed enclosure.
I have a dna40 clone en route that I'm working on a 3d printed enclosure for, should be here soon
Nice, man Im about to order a 3d printer I found a decent one for 500 (of course my wife is mad about me getting it ha) but I have been thinking it would make modding so much better. I ordered a cradle for the dna40 from shapeways
DNA 40 CHIP MOUNT / CRADLE V2 by DarthPistachio on Shapeways
Thats it, it seems like it is going to work fine i just have to find screws for it.
But also have you ever checked out this site ponoko.com it is pretty sweet. I have been thinking a lot about a wood mod I do a lot of wood work I made my vape stand and built a lot of the furniture in my house so I might give it a try. How thick did you make the walls?
yeah 3d printers are great, they take a lot of tinkering to keep them going though -- I'm on my 3rd printer at this point.
I have got them all used from lulzbot -- the first two I add bearings and better endstops and fixed random kinks with them then used them while I had them listed on craigslist and sold them for a good amount more than I paid. I'm a few hundred ahead at this point and have one that basically the extruded aluminum version of a prusa with lots of upgrades -- nice print area and super sturdy so not as much tinkering required. I think i'm keeping this one. The hardest part about the 3d printing is finding a decent CAD program -- Auto Desk Inventor is the way to go in my opinion -- if you know a college student have them get you a copy of it and its free for a 3 or 4 year license (not sure which off hand...)
The free tools are brutal -- doing precise things takes forever because they are pushing you to upgrade for lots of features....
I went with 1/8 cedar for the front and back and a frame of 1/4 cedar for the wood mod -- just glued the frame all together and put screws on the front and back -- i should of went with magnets...
That site you linked is new to me -- thanks man -- would be cool to have something milled out with a proper cnc so there is less wasted space and a stronger end product.
I have got them all used from lulzbot -- the first two I add bearings and better endstops and fixed random kinks with them then used them while I had them listed on craigslist and sold them for a good amount more than I paid. I'm a few hundred ahead at this point and have one that basically the extruded aluminum version of a prusa with lots of upgrades -- nice print area and super sturdy so not as much tinkering required. I think i'm keeping this one. The hardest part about the 3d printing is finding a decent CAD program -- Auto Desk Inventor is the way to go in my opinion -- if you know a college student have them get you a copy of it and its free for a 3 or 4 year license (not sure which off hand...)
The free tools are brutal -- doing precise things takes forever because they are pushing you to upgrade for lots of features....
I went with 1/8 cedar for the front and back and a frame of 1/4 cedar for the wood mod -- just glued the frame all together and put screws on the front and back -- i should of went with magnets...
That site you linked is new to me -- thanks man -- would be cool to have something milled out with a proper cnc so there is less wasted space and a stronger end product.
I have read about the tinkering, I added you as a friend on here when I get mine, if i have to il shoot you a message see if you can help. does the filament go fast, and is it expensive?
You can't pirate a good CAD program?
thanks for the box dimensions and yea man that site is the bee's knee's
You can't pirate a good CAD program?
thanks for the box dimensions and yea man that site is the bee's knee's
sure let me know if you have questions about it -- filament is cheap unless you get in to the exotic stuff (which will likely clog your extruding head and is a pain to fix)
my day job is in the IT Security space so getting busted for pirating would be very embarrassing so i found a more legitimate path
I gotta crash man, have a nice one
my day job is in the IT Security space so getting busted for pirating would be very embarrassing
so i found a more legitimate pathI gotta crash man, have a nice one
Can I give you 1 Suggestion.
Before you attempt to Solder leads onto a Circuit Board, you might want to do some Practicing on something you don't have to worry about Ruining.
Most people have an Old Video Card or Network card laying around. It is Nice to take some Wire and Practice soldering Wire to it Before they try their Luck on something like a DNA40 Board.
Also, having a way to hold things when Soldering is about 1/2 the Battle. One of these Gizmos can come in Very Handy.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Hel...&qid=1423845099&sr=1-1&keywords=helping+hands
Can I give you 1 Suggestion.
Before you attempt to Solder leads onto a Circuit Board, you might want to do some Practicing on something you don't have to worry about Ruining.
Most people have an Old Video Card or Network card laying around. It is Nice to take some Wire and Practice soldering Wire to it Before they try their Luck on something like a DNA40 Board.
Also, having a way to hold things when Soldering is about 1/2 the Battle. One of these Gizmos can come in Very Handy.
SE MZ101B Helping Hand Magnifier - Educational And Hobby Magnifiers - Amazon.com
Thanks, I have 2 helping hands a cheap one from amazon and a pretty good one from radio shack
and I did practice on another board and it all worked out fine the only problem I have had is with the contacts.
Cool.
I don't do much Soldering. And haven't done much Period.
So it seems when I need to solder something, that I have to Relearn all the Tips and Tricks all over again. But then once I kinda know what I am doing, the Project is Done. And it is another 2 or 3 Years until I need to Solder something again.
Happens as the tip wears down, and flux accelerates the process. If you're using plumbing flux instead of electrical flux this will cause it to happen much quicker. Plumbing flux (acid flux) isn't recommended for electrical connections, as it can cause degradation in the longer term.
Can I give you 1 Suggestion.
Before you attempt to Solder leads onto a Circuit Board, you might want to do some Practicing on something you don't have to worry about Ruining.
Most people have an Old Video Card or Network card laying around. It is Nice to take some Wire and Practice soldering Wire to it Before they try their Luck on something like a DNA40 Board.
Also, having a way to hold things when Soldering is about 1/2 the Battle. One of these Gizmos can come in Very Handy.
SE MZ101B Helping Hand Magnifier - Educational And Hobby Magnifiers - Amazon.com
zoidman,
Harbor Freight has 2 different models of these; I highly recommend the $7.99 one over the $3.99 one. This one looks like the cheaper version.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=helping+hands
Quick question, the contacts on my batterys are pretty scratched up. Can this cause a problem are they still safe to use. Even the ones I use in my panzer are like this. Can someone just let me know if they are safe still? here is a pic
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