Help understanding ohms

[DubD92]

Hello vapers, so I have been trying to get the most of my smok M80 xpro plus box mod. I have a mutation x v4 rda. I have built different builds trying to find the best to get the most efficient and reliable power outta my box mod. I have done the following- all dual coil 24 gauge at;
.19 ohms, .24 ohms, .34 ohms. I felt like the .3 ohms would get better clouds. But that's why I have gave up and came to ask you guys to understand the ohms and also how to get the most out of my box mod.
Please help!!!

 

[State O' Flux]

According to the manufacturer, the minimum resistance, "self-preservation" circuit for your APV is 0.2Ω.

At .24Ω with 24 gauge (Kanthal I assume) at 80 watts, the heat flux is a very warm 368 mW/mm², and the surface area per coil is 100.69 mm². (heat flux is a value of coil radiant heat)
You can turn down the wattage, which will lower the heat, but won't do a thing for coil surface area.

Were your set-up mine, I'd go with thicker, 23 gauge wire, which would increase the coil surface area (more area - more vapor density and volume) to144.92 mm². This change would also reduce the heat flux to a less hot, but more than sufficient 260 mW/mm².
You can also go with 22 gauge, with even more surface area... but with your limit of 80 watts, the heat flux will drop down below 200 mW/mm².

 

[Vatic]

to understand ohms you need to have an understanding of ohms Law. E = IR (E = I times R) If you have a smart phone you can download two very helpful free apps. One is Vapers tool box and the other is an Ohms law calculator. Using this formula you can calculate that a .2ohm coil running at 80 watts will be pushing 20 amps and 4 volts. Understanding Ohms law better will help you all the way around but State O Flux is correct also, thicker gauge wire 22 or 23 will increase the mass of the coil therefore producing more and warmer vapor.

 

[State O' Flux]

thicker gauge wire 22 or 23 will increase the mass of the coil therefore producing more and warmer vapor.

Hi ya', Vatic...

It's a common misconception that thicker wire, for a given resistance and wattage, will increase the coil radiant temperature (so many "rules" to keep track of, yes?)... but in fact, the opposite is true.
When you increase surface area via thicker wire for a given resistance, you need to increase wattage to maintain 'X' temperature.
Inversely, if the build temperature is on the cool side... decreasing the wire thickness, with no other changes, will increase the radiant temperature.

The sentences that I frequently pull from my article regarding this are:

• The calculated wattage doesn't care about your wire gauge or coils in parallel count... just the net resistance and battery voltage.
• Heat flux is the coil(s) radiant heat, expressed in milliwatts per millimeter of coil surface area... squared. For our purposes... it's simply how warm you perceive your vape to be.
• Heat flux does care about the wire gauge (AKA wire surface area & mass), coils in parallel count and net resistance, and is directly affected by them, both together and independently.

 

[DubD92]

Now I have a clear understanding how to achieve different vapes. I will build on 22 gauge since my local shop doesn't have 23.
Thank you to both of you!!!

 

[DubD92]

Hi ya', Vatic...

It's a common misconception that thicker wire, for a given resistance and wattage, will increase the coil radiant temperature (so many "rules" to keep track of, yes?)... but in fact, the opposite is true.
When you increase surface area via thicker wire for a given resistance, you need to increase wattage to maintain 'X' temperature.
Inversely, if the build temperature is on the cool side... decreasing the wire thickness, with no other changes, will increase the radiant temperature.

The sentences that I frequently pull from my article regarding this are:

• The calculated wattage doesn't care about your wire gauge or coils in parallel count... just the net resistance and battery voltage.
• Heat flux is the coil(s) radiant heat, expressed in milliwatts per millimeter of coil surface area... squared. For our purposes... it's simply how warm you perceive your vape to be.
• Heat flux does care about the wire gauge (AKA wire surface area & mass), coils in parallel count and net resistance, and is directly affected by them, both together and independently.

Interesting. It's similar to a subwoofer sound system wiring requirements.

 

[State O' Flux]

Now I have a clear understanding how to achieve different vapes. I will build on 22 gauge since my local shop doesn't have 23.
Thank you to both of you!!!

Again, as I mentioned in the last post, with 22 gauge at 0.24Ω, at 80 watts, you will drop below 200 mW/mm².
If you find this to be too cool... you can increase the temperature to around 220 mW/mm² by running right up against the limiter at 0.2Ω... which will require very exacting values and measurements. Worst case is, your APV doesn't fire because you went a hair under 0.20Ω.

You may want to click the first sigline below... and read it once or twice, so you have a firm understanding of how to approach this build with confidence rather than guesstimating.

 

[edyle]

Hello vapers, so I have been trying to get the most of my Smok M80 xpro plus box mod. I have a mutation x v4 RDA. I have built different builds trying to find the best to get the most efficient and reliable power outta my box mod. I have done the following- all dual coil 24 gauge at;
.19 ohms, .24 ohms, .34 ohms. I felt like the .3 ohms would get better clouds. But that's why I have gave up and came to ask you guys to understand the ohms and also how to get the most out of my box mod.
Please help!!!

use the steam engine coil calculator
green is good. red is too hot; blue is too cold


...

and errrrrrrr
don't do anything crazy

like stick a knife in your eye to find out if it hurts

 

[DubD92]

Again, as I mentioned in the last post, with 22 gauge at 0.24Ω, at 80 watts, you will drop below 200 mW/mm².
If you find this to be too cool... you can increase the temperature to around 220 mW/mm² by running right up against the limiter at 0.2Ω... which will require very exacting values and measurements. Worst case is, your APV doesn't fire because you went a hair under 0.20Ω.

You may want to click the first sigline below... and read it once or twice, so you have a firm understanding of how to approach this build with confidence rather than guesstimating.

I will look for 23 gauge since that is the sweet spot.

 

[DubD92]

use the steam engine coil calculator
green is good. red is too hot; blue is too cold


...

and errrrrrrr
don't do anything crazy

like stick a knife in your eye to find out if it hurts

HAHAHAHAHA or have a blown up M80 box mod in my eye lol

 

[State O' Flux]

I will look for 23 gauge since that is the sweet spot.

Weirdly, shops seem to carry only even numbers, as though the odd gauges don't exist.
You may have to order it on-line.
Temco, a licensed, genuine Kanthal distributor, has eBay listings for all gauges... and Lightning Vapes carries genuine Kanthal as well.

 

[Vatic]

Hi ya', Vatic...

It's a common misconception that thicker wire, for a given resistance and wattage, will increase the coil radiant temperature (so many "rules" to keep track of, yes?)... but in fact, the opposite is true.
When you increase surface area via thicker wire for a given resistance, you need to increase wattage to maintain 'X' temperature.
Inversely, if the build temperature is on the cool side... decreasing the wire thickness, with no other changes, will increase the radiant temperature.

The sentences that I frequently pull from my article regarding this are:

• The calculated wattage doesn't care about your wire gauge or coils in parallel count... just the net resistance and battery voltage.
• Heat flux is the coil(s) radiant heat, expressed in milliwatts per millimeter of coil surface area... squared. For our purposes... it's simply how warm you perceive your vape to be.
• Heat flux does care about the wire gauge (AKA wire surface area & mass), coils in parallel count and net resistance, and is directly affected by them, both together and independently.

I realize your all about heat flux which is cool and all but that's not something, I feel that your average vaper/builder will ever trouble himself with. Its quite confusing..... and as if Ohms law isn't confusing enough.... Second, Lets not forget that the OP is asking about his Smok M80 and how to get the most out of it, not a Mechanical mod.
People ( including me ) like things simplified. We realize your very intelligent and heat flux is important to you but first off most vapers have absolutely no idea what it is, Hell, Most vapers have no idea of ohms law ( which is a shame ) but were talking about heat flux so Lets try and get that out of the way first.

"Heat flux" is a new measurement of radiant heat that a coil gives off, measured in milliwatts per millimeter squared, or mW/mm2

The bottom line is......A larger surface area means more e liquid will be vaporized IF the same amount of current is applied for the same amount of time.

We can even simplify that statement..

More surface area equals thicker clouds, more flavor.

 

[DubD92]

I realize your all about heat flux which is cool and all but that's not something, I feel that your average vaper/builder will ever trouble himself with. Its quite confusing..... and as if Ohms law isn't confusing enough.... Second, Lets not forget that the OP is asking about his Smok M80 and how to get the most out of it, not a Mechanical mod.
People ( including me ) like things simplified. We realize your very intelligent and heat flux is important to you but first off most vapers have absolutely no idea what it is, Hell, Most vapers have no idea of ohms law ( which is a shame ) but were talking about heat flux so Lets try and get that out of the way first.



"Heat flux" is a new measurement of radiant heat that a coil gives off, measured in milliwatts per millimeter squared, or mW/mm2

The bottom line is......A larger surface area means more e liquid will be vaporized IF the same amount of current is applied for the same amount of time.

We can even simplify that statement..

More surface area equals thicker clouds, more flavor.

That's what I'm looking for. Thicker clouds.

 

[DubD92]

I built a 22 gauge kenthal dual coil @ .21 and @ 80 watts. I can some what achieve decent clouds. My apv does handled .10 ohm builds... Should I try 22 gauge .1 ohm build to achieve those huge clouds? I a using a 3mm drill bit to wrap the coils on.