[help] upgrade from iTaste MVP 2.0

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PoPoPoP

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Jul 5, 2014
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Hi, almost 2 years ago I had quit smoking rolled up tobacco for good. With some help from this website, I bought iTaste MVP 2.0 with Aerotank Mega and didn't look behind. I use dual coils (1.5ohms) and 50/50 eliquids. It's been like this for almost 2 years now. At first I was using 70/30 (more VG) for a few months but I changed to 50/50.

During the course of these 2 years, I have had some problems. I.e. if I want a good vape, I have to suck and draw more for more than 3 seconds. I can't hold power and drawn for 1 or 2 seconds, otherwise I get a weak vape. Changing the voltage / watts didn't help. Annoying but I got used to it.

So, I just want better consistency, better taste / cloud, whatever.
Soo... Any good upgrade suggestion? Thanks
 
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gandymarsh

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Lots of better gear available nowadays.

Some suggestions

Mods
iStick 30w, 40w (integrated battery) 60w (replaceable battery)
Innokin Coolfire IV or Coolfire IV Plus (integrated battery)
Heatvape Defender 50w (replaceable battery)

Kanger Subox kit or Kanger Topbox kit (replaceable battery)

Tanks
Aspire Nautilus mini
Eleaf GS Air M
Kanger Subtank mini

Most of these suggestions are reasonably priced. Of course you can always spend more.
 
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gandymarsh

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Your last post appeared while I was typing.

Yes you can use just about any tank with the Coolfire.

If you're used to the draw of the Aerotank, you would probably like the Nautilus mini or the GS Air M. The airflow in both can be closed down for a mouth to lung hit or opened for a somewhat tight direct to lung hit. The Subtank has much more airflow and is designed for subohm vaping. The Subtank has an RBA deck option if you want to build your own coils.
 

suprtrkr

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+1. If you like the Aero, a Nautilus or GS Air ought to be right down your alley. FWIW, if you're going to stay in the MTL arena-- nothing wrong with that, probably most vapers do-- you don't need more than 20ish, maybe 30 watts tops. I say this because you can probably buy a Cool Fire cheaper than the Cool Fire Plus, and you don't really need the extra power. I don't have either, but I understand both are fine equipments, and the CF has a metallic housing, versus plastic for the CF+.
 

wheelie

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I also quit with a MVP2 but have since given all four away. Top company in my opinion is Joyetech right now. eVic VTC with a Tron Tank is proven. Takes a single 18650. No leaks and coils can just change out cotton on CLR coils. CL coils are one of the easiest to rebuild IMHO. Even a better mod is the Cuboid. But it has not been out long and is a 150 watt mod but upgradeable to 200 watt. I have had mine two weeks and it is my best. It is a duel battery 18650. Usually top mine with a Sence Hercules Tank. Apire Atlantis coils run in it in which are easily rebuilt as well. Want a real machine can top it with a Smok TFV4 but juice consumption would go way up with this tank. Good luck to you. CHEERS!
 

gandymarsh

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+1. If you like the Aero, a Nautilus or GS Air ought to be right down your alley. FWIW, if you're going to stay in the MTL arena-- nothing wrong with that, probably most vapers do-- you don't need more than 20ish, maybe 30 watts tops. I say this because you can probably buy a Cool Fire cheaper than the Cool Fire Plus, and you don't really need the extra power. I don't have either, but I understand both are fine equipments, and the CF has a metallic housing, versus plastic for the CF+.
No offense @suptrkr but I think you're wrong about the CF IV Pus having a plastic housing.

The brushed Aluminium finish on the Coolfire IV Plus feels really solid. The whole mod is made very well and it feels like a top quality device, as we have come to expect from Innokin. The buttons are much improved on the plus as the ones on the original felt somewhat plasticky. This is no longer the case and there is no button rattling either. The threading on the 510 connection is made very well and you can feel that the threads are really solid. The 510 connection also comes with a nice spring loaded pin.

Innokin Coolfire IV Plus Review - Vaping360
 

PoPoPoP

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Kanger Subtank mini

Just bought the coolfire plus, I don't have enough money to buy a tank and other stuff yet.
I will get the Subtank mini one (I guess because it's v2 ?... and well, people say better things about it)

Also, for the time being, what kind of 0.5ohms coils (already built) should I buy for that certain tank?
I don't have the time to learn how to build own coils, but I will in the future.
I also have to buy 6mg nic eliquids... I currently use 12mg but I heard that for sub vaping, >6mg would be harsh
 

djsvapour

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Just bought the coolfire plus, I don't have enough money to buy a tank and other stuff yet.
I will get the Subtank mini one (I guess because it's v2 ?... and well, people say better things about it)

Also, for the time being, what kind of 0.5ohms coils (already built) should I buy for that certain tank?
I don't have the time to learn how to build own coils, which I will learn in the future.
I also have to buy 6mg nic eliquids... I currently use 12mg but I heard that for sub vaping, >6mg would be harsh


Good news. As much as we all loved the MVP 2 it's had it's day in the Sun.
(Apart from Di Caprio, who is clearly a custard...)

You should lower your Nicotine if you vape 'harder'.

Personally, I can't be bothered, because I am hard, well 'ard. :)

Sub-ohm vaping is only genuine sub-ohm when you vape at a certain power, it's not like there are laws or it's a religion.

12mg, 0.5 coil... I'll do that for a morning warm-up. :eek:

(at 12.8 watts...) :p
 
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gandymarsh

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I think you'll be very happy with your purchase. As you know, Innokin makes high quality mods.
what kind of 0.5ohms coils (already built) should I buy for that certain tank?
If/when you buy the Subtank, the vendor should sell the replacement coils also. I believe they are called OCC coils. I think you can buy 1.2 ohm coils for the Subtank also. The Coolfire IV Plus does not do temperature control so you want the standard kanthal not Ni200 coils.
 
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OlderNDirt

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I was using the exact same set-up, MVP2 and Mega's, up until a year ago. Then went to the Kanger sub with a mod to run it. Duel used for a few months, but after picking up a second mod, a sub mini, and Atlantis, I soon realized the MVP2 and Mega's were pretty much just gathering dust. So gave all the "old stuff" away and went entirely with subΩ gear and haven't been happier. I would suggest if it is all working out for you, try a different sub tank on your next purchase so you can compare. I'm still using the Kangers, but really liking the TFV4 or mini. Good luck and enjoy your journey!
 

cointerm

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I recently got exactly the setup being talked about here: CoolFire IV plus and a subtank (and a Triton 2, but that's a different story). Great little device, very hassle-free.

Careful of your nicotine, though! I was between 6 and 9 mg on a Nautilus Mini before, and using the .5 clapton coils on the subtank, I was getting nic overdosed (headache, nausea, shaky). Had to buy a whole bunch of 3 mg.
 
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Sir2fyablyNutz

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+1 on the Aspire Nautilus Mini, it's probably a step up above the Aerotank. Has 1.6 or 1.8 ohm BVC coils. Great for mouth to lung vapers.

+1 on the Kanger Subtank Mini V2. Probably one of the easiest tanks to learn to make your own coils on (check you tube for video's) Coil building is easy and CHEAP after the initial set up. (I have used Fasttech in China and Amazon for Kanthal wire and Koh Gen Do cotton) The versatility of this tank is nice as you can use either the factory coils or build on the rba. You can get the 1.5 ohm coils to stay similar to where you now vape or the .5 to go deeper into the vape experience. As to the nicotine level, if it's too harsh at 6mg you can buy the same flavor in zero nic. 1 part zero nic + 1 part 6 mg = 2 parts 3 mg. (mix the two equally and it cuts the nic in half.)
I mouth to lung vape with my subtanks so the first thing I did was buy a cheap ($1) plastic 510 sized drip tip (mouthpiece) to replace the wide bore car exhaust sized one on the Subtank.

Either of these will work great on the Coolfire IV. You should understand the lower you go in ohms the more power it takes to vaporize the juice so the battery will need recharged sooner, and the Subtank will use quite a bit more juice than the Aerotank you now use.

Enjoy the journey.
 
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PoPoPoP

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Thanks guys! I'll be using the stock SSOCC coils (0.5ohms) for now.

As for wick / coil building, I'll get some Koh Gen Do cotton. I don't know if I should be concerned about this but I'm guessing that as long as they are 100% pure organic cotton & no chemicals used, they should be okay to vape on.

I'm not sure about what wire though.... Normal Kanthal? Clapton? Which one to buy / use for sub ohms?

If / when I manage to build my successful coil / wick, I'd be amazed. It'd take almost 2 years for me to achieve such an accomplishment. Then after that, I guess it's making own eliquids...
 
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djsvapour

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If / when I manage to build my successful coil / wick, I'd be amazed. It'd take almost 2 years for me to achieve such an accomplishment. Then after that, I guess it's making own eliquids...

What are you planning to 're-build'?

Proper RBA sections are much easier than factory coils i.m.o.
 
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