High wattage high ohms

[Vatigu]

I just got my first drippers in the mail today doge competition and vertex v2 and I built a 1ohm micro using 28 gauge and a 0.3 ohm at 24gauge and at 50 watts(max for my mod) I find the 1.0 ohm build is way more satisfying. This is not a subohm bashing thread I loves them clouds but I have to say the performance of the 1 ohm coil is waay better... Am I just crazy or is there really no other reason to use sub ohm coils other than a mech mod or trying to get max wattage out of a 100+ watt device?

 

[ElevenEleven]

I think its funny when people say 1 ohm is high.

You're pretty much thinking what everyone around here has been saying. Its not so much the resistance of the coil as it has more to do with the surface area of the coil.

 

[sacullen]

There are a lot of variables at work here. Simply using different atomizers makes it complicated. The atties, builds, wicking, and juice all affect the quality of your vape. One simply cannot make a blanket statement regarding a "better" vape based only on resistance alone.

 

[deach]

Juices taste different at different levels. Lots of stuff I've tried taste better at .8 or to to a little over 1 ohm. I see nothing you're doing wrong but discovering where you like to vape and where your juices taste better.

 

[Vatigu]

There are a lot of variables at work here. Simply using different atomizers makes it complicated. The atties, builds, wicking, and juice all affect the quality of your vape. One simply cannot make a blanket statement regarding a "better" vape based only on resistance alone.

Wasn't trying to make a blanket statement was looking to see if my experience was unique at all. I've got a lot more experimenting to do - At this point I had only a tiny amount of sample wire to play with but the 1ohm was very much better than the .3 ohm build, so my further question is: Are people limiting their experience and potentially missing out by chasing the low ohm builds?

@BrandonR yeah 1 ohm isn't high but when I think of drippers I usually think .2-.3 ohm 100 watt dragon clouds so it was somewhat surprising that the 1ohm was so far superior in this particular instance

 

[cinetrope]

You're not crazy, you're proving that the surface area of a coil, chamber volume of an atty, and airflow are also factors in the overall performance of a rig.

 

[ElevenEleven]

@BrandonR yeah 1 ohm isn't high but when I think of drippers I usually think .2-.3 ohm 100 watt dragon clouds so it was somewhat surprising that the 1ohm was so far superior in this particular instance

I assume we're talking about a 1 ohm load on a regulated device. I (and many people here) are having that same experience. There's a .33 ohm dual coil build on my Sigelei running at 70 watts right now, but thats my main atty and when I go out I throw that on a mech. Nonetheless, I know what you mean.

 

[inspects]

Wasn't trying to make a blanket statement was looking to see if my experience was unique at all. I've got a lot more experimenting to do - At this point I had only a tiny amount of sample wire to play with but the 1ohm was very much better than the .3 ohm build, so my further question is: Are people limiting their experience and potentially missing out by chasing the low ohm builds?

@BrandonR yeah 1 ohm isn't high but when I think of drippers I usually think .2-.3 ohm 100 watt dragon clouds so it was somewhat surprising that the 1ohm was so far superior in this particular instance

I have a couple Goblins, one at .3 one at .8, I enjoy the higher ohm better, I experience much more flavor.

Everyone is different, what one person may like another will not. Even a spinner II with a 1.8 clearo tastes great to me (once in a great while).

 

[The Torch]

(Bear with me):

I just used 30 gauge kanthal by mistake and made a 2.4 ohm coil with my usual number of wraps. I normally use 28 gauge and get about 1.4 ohms. I actually had to lower my voltage from 4.3 to 3.9 at first, else it tasted like burnt and I still get a comparable amount of vapor. This is due to more than just Ohm's law.... thinner wire needs less amps to get to the same temperature. The end temperature is really what evaporates the juice and it is the amps-to-gauge ratio that gets the temperature going, not the volt-to-Ohm ratio. But.... this is still only part of the equation, you still need to account for surface ratio, which includes coil diameter, length and wire thickness. Then there is also capillary action that is composed of wick and juice density plus channel size-to-airflow ratios. This, in turn, is influenced by airflow-to-tanksize ratio, which can be influenced by the distance between the chimney bottom airhole and the coil. I've been thinking about this a lot in recent weeks and I came to the conclusion that there are more ways to Rome than one can account for.

 

[Ryedan]

I just got my first drippers in the mail today Doge competition and vertex v2 and I built a 1ohm micro using 28 gauge and a 0.3 ohm at 24gauge and at 50 watts(max for my mod) I find the 1.0 ohm build is way more satisfying. This is not a subohm bashing thread I loves them clouds but I have to say the performance of the 1 ohm coil is waay better... Am I just crazy or is there really no other reason to use sub ohm coils other than a mech mod or trying to get max wattage out of a 100+ watt device?

High power regulated mods are a different world compared to mechanical mods. rusirius posted the best explanation of how this stuff works I've seen yet: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices.

Vape on

 

[inspects]

(Bear with me):

I just used 30 gauge kanthal by mistake and made a 2.4 ohm coil with my usual number of wraps. I normally use 28 gauge and get about 1.4 ohms. I actually had to lower my voltage from 4.3 to 3.9 at first, else it tasted like burnt and I still get a comparable amount of vapor. This is due to more than just Ohm's law.... thinner wire needs less amps to get to the same temperature. The end temperature is really what evaporates the juice and it is the amps-to-gauge ratio that gets the temperature going, not the volt-to-Ohm ratio. But.... this is still only part of the equation, you still need to account for surface ratio, which includes coil diameter, length and wire thickness. Then there is also capillary action that is composed of wick and juice density plus channel size-to-airflow ratios. This, in turn, is influenced by airflow-to-tanksize ratio, which can be influenced by the distance between the chimney bottom airhole and the coil. I've been thinking about this a lot in recent weeks and I came to the conclusion that there are more ways to Rome than one can account for.

Indeed.....

Well explained too.

 

[Spencer87]

I was thinking that lower ohm was for mechs... Vape to your hearts content if you have a Regulated. Dont worry so much about ahmage (oh course test) but dont worry about high or low because there is always the option of

MORE POWER.....

 

[Completely Average]

I find it funny how quickly "standards" get redefined in the vaping world.

This time last year this would have been considered a near insanely high powered low-ohm setup....

Most people except sub-ohmers were vaping at 1.8ohms or higher and with 12 watts or less power.

 

[EvlSmrk]

High power regulated mods are a different world compared to mechanical mods. rusirius posted the best explanation of how this stuff works I've seen yet: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices.

Vape on

That was indeed a good read...long, but still good.

I completely agree with Completely Average. It's all in what you want. I love that there is a way to get exactly what you want out of vaping now. All you need to know is where you're at and where you want to be. The rest sort of takes care of itself with any number of the options that are out there. Keep on vaping.

 

[Diesel9]

(Bear with me):

I just used 30 gauge kanthal by mistake and made a 2.4 ohm coil with my usual number of wraps. I normally use 28 gauge and get about 1.4 ohms. I actually had to lower my voltage from 4.3 to 3.9 at first, else it tasted like burnt and I still get a comparable amount of vapor. This is due to more than just Ohm's law.... thinner wire needs less amps to get to the same temperature. The end temperature is really what evaporates the juice and it is the amps-to-gauge ratio that gets the temperature going, not the volt-to-Ohm ratio. But.... this is still only part of the equation, you still need to account for surface ratio, which includes coil diameter, length and wire thickness. Then there is also capillary action that is composed of wick and juice density plus channel size-to-airflow ratios. This, in turn, is influenced by airflow-to-tanksize ratio, which can be influenced by the distance between the chimney bottom airhole and the coil. I've been thinking about this a lot in recent weeks and I came to the conclusion that there are more ways to Rome than one can account for.

After years of vapin this is exactly what I try and explain to new vapors, I believe for every person there is a ideal vape. No one likes it the same, its a matter of matching heat / coil surface area / air flow / safety and wicking material. I think what gets forgotten many times is airflow and how you inhale, it plays such a massive role. I see it all the time, new vapers pick up a .5 atlantis tank yet there mouth>lung hitters and don't understand why its just not a good vape, when someone who lung inhales typically thrives on that sort of vape.

 

[Vatigu]

After years of vapin this is exactly what I try and explain to new vapors, I believe for every person there is a ideal vape. No one likes it the same, its a matter of matching heat / coil surface area / air flow / safety and wicking material. I think what gets forgotten many times is airflow and how you inhale, it plays such a massive role. I see it all the time, new vapers pick up a .5 atlantis tank yet there mouth>lung hitters and don't understand why its just not a good vape, when someone who lung inhales typically thrives on that sort of vape.

I started out as a mouth-lung hitter then when I got my subtank swapped to lung hits in two-three days and haven't looked back - I was told the draw could be made tight enough on the lowest setting to mouth-lung it was a lie but I adapted.

At the end of the day I think my experimentation will start towards high ohm and maybe play with sub-ohm later.

 

[juggler86]

I love me some sup-ohm vaping on my regulated devices and sub-ohm on my mechs. The ramp up time on regulated boxes is next to nothing so you can get away with build 1.4-2.2 coils. If i throw 1 of my high build attys on a mech the thng takes ages to fires properly.

 

[The Torch]

Indeed.....

Well explained too.

Thank you... what a relief as I though my post was pretty messy

After years of vapin this is exactly what I try and explain to new vapors, I believe for every person there is a ideal vape. No one likes it the same, its a matter of matching heat / coil surface area / air flow / safety and wicking material. I think what gets forgotten many times is airflow and how you inhale, it plays such a massive role. I see it all the time, new vapers pick up a .5 atlantis tank yet there mouth>lung hitters and don't understand why its just not a good vape, when someone who lung inhales typically thrives on that sort of vape.

You just pointed one of the major problems: hype. Cloud chasing is popular and does work for a lot of people, but it can send newbies in the wrong direction especially in the early stages of vaping.

Knowledge is no more than 50% of the work, the rest is really trying it out and finding out what really works. I've been vaping for 3.5 years; 2 years on and off and almost one year full-time now and I still do not like airy cloud chasing setups, although I like it when I blow out a lot of vapor.

I started out as a mouth-lung hitter then when I got my subtank swapped to lung hits in two-three days and haven't looked back - I was told the draw could be made tight enough on the lowest setting to mouth-lung it was a lie but I adapted.

At the end of the day I think my experimentation will start towards high ohm and maybe play with sub-ohm later.

Sounds like the average evolution to me; start with higher ohms, less airy vape, then most wil adapt to more airy vapes and less ohms. Some people stop between 1 and 2 ohms, some keep going down in ohms and up in airflow. Whatever works is the good way to go.

I love me some sup-ohm vaping on my regulated devices and sub-ohm on my mechs. The ramp up time on regulated boxes is next to nothing so you can get away with build 1.4-2.2 coils. If i throw 1 of my high build attys on a mech the thng takes ages to fires properly.

Very interesting and important point there on the ramping up times....

 

[Thrasher]

I knew it was around here somewhere
Circa 2010

www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv...e-wanted-know-plus-bit-electronic-theory.html