Hobo v2.1 Advice

[arc323]

I just spent $90 on a Hobo v2.1 and I'm having an issue. I cannot get a decent build on it that performs like I want it to. What builds are you running on your Hobos? Please be specific as in what gauge of wire and number of wraps.

It's bugging me that I just spent almost $100 on this thing I keep going back to my $30 mutation x v2. Look forward to hearing your replies.

 

[itskohler]

Try 6 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around a 3/32 drill bit.

 

[iilex]

Try 6 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around a 3/32 drill bit.

That's actually really accurate. Yeah, the hobo's drip well is huge, but taking into account how high the AFC sits, and how much clearance you have between the AFC top, the cone that leads to the top cap and the protrusion of the drip tip; you've got an insanely small chamber. 3/32 or 2.4mm is about as big as the hobo likes.

Since the Hobo 2.1 doesn't have any single coil options for the top hat, it's not going to deliver good results one just one coil. Personally I like 5 wraps of 26g, on a 2mm mandrel in parallel, dual coil setup.

Keep in mind when you're building for a Hobo, you have to wrap your coils counterclockwise. This is so when you place your coils to the *left* on either side (to make sure the crooked AFC slots line up perfectly), that the legs going to the positive block hook up, instead of hooking down. Building a sub ohm hobo in any other way will melt your insulator to the point where the positive post tilts from the tension of the coils, which will make the copper pin on the 510 touch your negative threads; making a short and essentially welding your atty to your mod.

Clearly, the hobo does seem to be extremely finicky when planning builds (Don't even get me started on the 0.035" hex driver) in comparison to something rookie friendly like a mephisto or the like; but once everything set... she sings. Super smooth production and an intense hot flavor because of that tiny chamber. I hated my hobo, and I really wanted to love it because of its reviews... but it took me shorting out a 25r to force myself to learn what it likes.

Sorry for the run on sentences; Hope this helps!

 

[arc323]

That's actually really accurate. Yeah, the hobo's drip well is huge, but taking into account how high the AFC sits, and how much clearance you have between the AFC top, the cone that leads to the top cap and the protrusion of the drip tip; you've got an insanely small chamber. 3/32 or 2.4mm is about as big as the hobo likes.

Since the Hobo 2.1 doesn't have any single coil options for the top hat, it's not going to deliver good results one just one coil. Personally I like 5 wraps of 26g, on a 2mm mandrel in parallel, dual coil setup.

Keep in mind when you're building for a Hobo, you have to wrap your coils counterclockwise. This is so when you place your coils to the *left* on either side (to make sure the crooked AFC slots line up perfectly), that the legs going to the positive block hook up, instead of hooking down. Building a sub ohm hobo in any other way will melt your insulator to the point where the positive post tilts from the tension of the coils, which will make the copper pin on the 510 touch your negative threads; making a short and essentially welding your atty to your mod.

Clearly, the hobo does seem to be extremely finicky when planning builds (Don't even get me started on the 0.035" hex driver) in comparison to something rookie friendly like a mephisto or the like; but once everything set... she sings. Super smooth production and an intense hot flavor because of that tiny chamber. I hated my hobo, and I really wanted to love it because of its reviews... but it took me shorting out a 25r to force myself to learn what it likes.

Sorry for the run on sentences; Hope this helps!

This is great advice! I've tried 24 gauge and even 22 gauge around a 2mm mandrel. I'm in the same boat as you in that I want to like it for the reviews but can't seem to get the build right.

That little hex wrench and is a pain and tbh mine didn't come with one. I went and bought one from a hardware store and managed to bugger up two of the screws. I resolved that issue though.

I wasn't paying attention to wrapping it counterclockwise so I think that may be my issue. I almost melted my insulator on my first build because I forgot that it was there.

I'll report back once I try your build. Thanks for the advice!

 

[jphilp]

Try 6 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around a 3/32 drill bit.

This is exactly what I am using except I used a 2.5mm rod. Ended up at ~0.3ohm with both coils on my clone and liked it so much I ordered an authentic. When you mount the coils make sure you get them as close as possible to the air intakes.

 

[iilex]

I'd probably use the 24g then.

You really lucked out on just being able to scoop up the specific hex key in a regular hardware store. I spent a good part of a week hunting down this thing locally and ended up buying a Wiha german driver set online. How did you deal with the screws?

Glad I could help!

 

[Hdivr]

I followed the advice of some others on the forum. Went to the hardware store and bough a #4-40 machine screw 1 1/2 inches long. Gives perfect spacing of 28 g wire. 7 wraps dual coil come to about .4 ohms.

 

[arc323]

I'd probably use the 24g then.

You really lucked out on just being able to scoop up the specific hex key in a regular hardware store. I spent a good part of a week hunting down this thing locally and ended up buying a Wiha german driver set online. How did you deal with the screws?

Glad I could help!

I had some extra screws from a Little Boy clone laying around and I used those on the outside negative posts. The only issue is that if I were to use 22 gauge wire the top cap would come to rest on those screws effectively messing up the AFC. 24 gauge is wire is fine though. Funny thing is that nobody sells hobo repair kits. They have Tugboat, Tobh Atty, and Magma repair kits but no Hobo. I search everywhere online.

FYI, the Hobo screw size is M2 I believe so if you have a dremel rotary tool with a small cutting wheel you cut some longer M2 screws down. I plan to do this but I don't have a cutting wheel. I'm going to the hardware store today to pick out a paint color for my living room so I'll look around for something to make it better.

I'll post some pics one I get it settled.

Thanks!

 

[jphilp]

FYI, the Hobo screw size is M2 I believe so if you have a dremel rotary tool with a small cutting wheel you cut some longer M2 screws down. I plan to do this but I don't have a cutting wheel. I'm going to the hardware store today to pick out a paint color for my living room so I'll look around for something to make it better.

M2 screws are extremely common on RC helicopters. You should be able to buy short ones at most RC hobby shops for a couple bucks and not need to cut them down at all.