home made battery

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Nazareth

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Jun 14, 2008
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naz.. an e cigar is just and e cig that looks like a cigar.. an e pipe is just an e cig that looks like a pipe.. there is no other difference..

I do know what an e-device is- I wouldn't care if it looked liek a whirly-gig as long as it works for a coupel of days and the atomizer doesn't crap out for 6-8 months- I'll buy it as long as it works well and batteries can last a coupel days lol

Was just wondering what your invention you're workign on is goign to be shaped like- double barrel sounds interesting lol
 

trog100

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it simply has to hold a decent sized battery.. it has to use off the shelf parts (atomizers and batteries) as much as possible.. it has to be simple to produce..

atomizers are disposables items.. nothing i can do about that.. batteries dont have to be disposable..

trog

ps.. i use the term device cos thats what it will be.. an e smoking device.. its only resemblance to a normal e cig will be it has something to suck vapour thru.. he he
 
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Gunny

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Thanks Trog- not sure if it'll fit- Some dude on a Dutch forum tried a battery from DE but it was too wide? Not sure what that was all about as I thought 3 volt batteries are all the same width? No? I went out and bought a small 3 volt, but it didn't work- not sure what happens to the Ruyan disposables, but when the battery gets just slightly below 3 volts (mine measured 2.9 on volt meter) it simply will not work, and the whole throwaway cigar guts/microchip or whatever don't work as well. I could get the cigar to create vapor with a 9 volt, but just for 2-3 puffs, then the led wouldn't stay on, and couldn't draw anymore, or (hte) light would just come on for a second, then fade out- I'd set the cigar down for a bit, try again- same scenario- ok vapor for 2-3 puffs, then nothing again. Taped two 1.5 volts together- same thing happened. I took the whole guts apart, and I can not find a 'microprocessor' on the unit at all unless it is in the very small circuitry board that the LED light is on- oh well- maybe I (fubarred) the cigar by dropping it- will have to see if I can wire up another battery on my next cigar when it goes out- (hopefulyl) I don't drop this one lol

I am almost speechless... WHO ARE YOU AND WHAT HAVE YOU DONE WITH the real Nazareth?8-o

The real Naz would never have allowed this many words with so few errors. Only 1 hte and only 2 other words that are very commonly misspelled.

Give it up pal... who are you?
 

jigtg

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Aug 4, 2008
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@trog100: you couldn't use that battery and charger. Battery is 3.7v and charger 3.6v. It might work but it doesn't charge anywhere near full.
3.7 volt batteries are the new ones. I believe most e-cigs still use 3.6 volt batteries. sku.14562 has 3.7v battery.

For 3.6v batteries charge voltage is 3.8 or something like that. For 3.7v batteries 4.2v. Both battery types should be near full when charge voltage is reached. It should be ok to use your e-cig charger but be sure to check what battery type you have.

DealExtreme: $7.25 TrustFire 3.7V 1600mAh 14650 Lithium Batteries (2-Pack)
DealExtreme: $4.32 Ultra Fire 10440 3.6V 500mAh 2Pack
 

vafvaf

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trog100

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@trog100: you couldn't use that battery and charger. Battery is 3.7v and charger 3.6v. It might work but it doesn't charge anywhere near full.
3.7 volt batteries are the new ones. I believe most e-cigs still use 3.6 volt batteries. sku.14562 has 3.7v battery.

For 3.6v batteries charge voltage is 3.8 or something like that. For 3.7v batteries 4.2v. Both battery types should be near full when charge voltage is reached. It should be ok to use your e-cig charger but be sure to check what battery type you have.

DealExtreme: $7.25 TrustFire 3.7V 1600mAh 14650 Lithium Batteries (2-Pack)
DealExtreme: $4.32 Ultra Fire 10440 3.6V 500mAh 2Pack

3.6 or 3.7 its just the nominal voltage.. the charge cut off point is about 4.2 and low charge point 2.72 for both 3.6 or 3.7 batteries.. the actual voltage can be anywhere between the two.. and e cig battery cuts out about 4.2 volts and 2.72 at the other end..

so as the e cig battery comes off charge it starts off at 4.2 volts.. as it runs down it get to 2.72 volts then it cuts out..

the other not so common lithium rechargeable has a nominal voltage of 3 volts.. its high charge cut off point is about 3.6 volts.. what u must not do is use a 4.2 cut off charger with an unprotected 3.6 cut off cell.. it might make it go bang..

primary lithium cells have a voltage of 3 volts.. an e cig voltage isnt critical.. but i work on the principle the nearer (longer) i can keep the voltage to four volts the better.. there isnt an e cig out there that dosnt like a fresh off charge battery at over 4 volts..

quite where the 3.7 or 3.6 volts come from i dont know.. the battery is rarely at this voltage.. it must be some kind of theoretical average.. i my batteries wont be charged with an e cig charger by the way..

i have a couple of these..

DealExtreme: $9.17 TrustFire All-in-One Charger (for 10430/10440/14500/16340 /17670/18650/CR123A)

and one of these

SOSHINE__Products -- Universal intelligent charger for 2pcs 18650 and 2pcs RCR123 Flashlight/Torch Li-ion Battery (SC-S1 mix) -- SOSHINE

plus a whole lot of different form factor rechargeable lithium cells to play with..

i dont have any of the 3 volt nominal rechargeable type thow.. they are only of use to replace 3 volt primaries..

trog
 

jigtg

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@trog100: I have had problems using 3.7v 18650 cells in laptop designed for 3.6v cells so thats why I think chargers do differ. Pretty hefty cigar that would make btw. Some dx chargers seem to charge all the way to 4.45v... watch out if you want your batteries to last...

actually on the bat from e-cigar written 3,7v, i think volts could be ok, whould the size ofsku.14562 will fit?

Li-ion dimensions are given by xxyyz, where xx is diameter in mm, yy length in mm, and where z = 0 is cylinder shape. So 10440 means 10 mm diameter, 44 mm length and cylinder shape. Finding smaller diameter batteries than that seems rather difficult. So cigars only.

As far as making fully automatic e-cig goes, you need small microcontroller like attiny(smd with 8 legs), small fet, one transistor(to drive the fet) and some sort of air flow sensor. Transistor might not be necessary. Microcontroller adds safety in case air flow sensor goes crazy. Air flow sensors are hard to get. It might be within human limits to make one though. Small hole(through pcb for example) with extremely thin metal plate glued(or soldered) to other side for example. Something like 0.05-0.1mm is probably thin enough. Wire might work as well.
 

trog100

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there does only seem to be two types of off the shelf lithium ion chargers.. the ones designed for the so called 3 volt rechargeable which cut off at 3.6.. and the ones designed for the so called 3.6 and 3.7 cells.. the latter two go up to 4.2 volts before shutting off.. even the protected ones which do their own shutting off both go up to around 4.2 volts..

i just put a volt meter on a fresh off charge 901 cell.. 4.2 volts as i expected..

lithium cells seem to behave much like alkaline one do.. a gradual voltage drop off as the battery uses up its charge.. unlike nic-cad and metal-hydride cells which hold a very standard 1.2 volts then go flat at the last minute..

why some lithium ion cells are rated 3.6 and some 3.7 i dont know.. they both seem the same in practice.. the strandard voltage range for both types seems to be 4.2 down to 2.72..

lithium polymer cells are different and again require a different charger.. they stand more abuse but have less capacity for a given size.. they are claimed to be 3 volt nominal but move between 3.6 and 2.4 as they use up their charge....

an e cig pressure switch is not a flow censor device.. nothing so complicated.. it simply measures the pressure differential.. as the pressure drops on the suck side the switch comes on.. no actual air flow is needed.. the older designs used to pull the air thru the battery.. the later ones pull the air thru a hole in the atomizer side or around the brass end.. .. no air passes thru the battery with the later ones.. which means fluid dosnt get in ether..

i am likely to make a manual switch device at first.. thow i could perhaps pinch one from a pipe or e cigar.. they are separate from the battery..

trog
 
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jigtg

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And I only wanted to know how to make a usb battery.

I wouldn't recommend connecting atomizer to usb because all devices are limited to 100mA. 500mA is possible but device needs to negotiate first. In short, you might blew your pc if you try this. If you have your pc open you can take 5V from red wire of hard disk. Black is ground.
You can also get 3.3V from orange wire, but that is typically only available through ATX connector. Yellow is 12V... These can deliver say 5-10 amps each.

Using 5V will make atomizer run hotter(42% more watts regardless of coil resistance) which increases risks of toxins forming. Do not use VG with this. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...205-vegetable-glycerine-glycerol-warning.html
 
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trog100

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Are you also following any developments on this type of bettery, Trog?
Nanowire battery can hold 10 times the charge of existing lithium-ion battery

i tend to work with whats available and whats "cheap".. i also like to cannibalize other commonly available parts when i can...

all i really have to make is the battery holder in essence.. long totem with their none existent zippo looking thing are doing much the same..

mine wont look like anything.. but it needs to be nice to hold and use.. it will use stock atomizers and off the shelf batteries.. nothing fancy just a device that holds a battery big enough to do the job it has to do

i have a small metal turning lathe arriving Thursday so i can have go then..

trog
 
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