Homemade dremel vaporizer - Easy MOD for beginners + 510 smooth smoke info

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ZeroNullity

Full Member
Nov 8, 2009
56
2
Nashville, TN
[FONT="]Homemade dremel vaporizer - Easy mod for beginners + 510 smooth smoke info[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT][/COLOR]
IMAGE IS AT : [URL="http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/6375/dremelvapor.jpg"][FONT="]http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/6375/dremelvapor.jpg[/FONT][/URL][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]

[FONT="] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]Let me start by introducing myself... My name is ZeroNullity, I’ve been an e-smoker for awhile and a “former” smoker much longer. I’m also a Electronic Engineer & Unix Computer Administrator . I thought I would share this easy mod with everyone. The good thing about this mod is you don’t have to do any modifications to the housing just unscrew it put your atty & wiring in. I currently have it hooked up to a power supply so that I can plug it into any 110v~ outlet. However there is plenty of room in the case if you want to add a rechargeable battery & charging circuit …. If you have soldering experience it takes less then 10 minutes to make one of these.[/FONT]
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[COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT]

[FONT="]Required Materials:[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]1.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT][FONT="]Cheap dremel knockoff – ones found in cheap silver/metal cases. You can find them in many different colors I just happen to have a blue one on hand.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]2.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT][FONT="]Dead battery from your favorite e-cig. You’ll be using this for the atty fitting. I use a 510. But any atomizer battery fitting should work.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]3.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT][FONT="]Power source – Wall wart (output rated at 4w-5w), Variable Power Supply, Battery/Charging circuit or USB Circuit (with heavy protection circuit) depending your personal preference of power.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]4.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT][FONT="]Good atty, cartridge, & e-liquid.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]5.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT][FONT="]Tools – screwdriver, soldering iron + solder, and masking tape is all you need.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT]

[FONT="]Procedure:[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]1.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT][FONT="]Take apart cheap dremel knockoff casing. Remove motor, shaft, and key chuck.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]2.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT][FONT="]Wire your atty & power circuit into place. I won’t get too detailed here… because it will depend on your needs. If you want to use a power supply like I do (variable power supply to adjust the heat of the atomizer) or maybe you want to use a battery, etc. You may need to add some masking tape around the atomizer fitting so it will stay in place when you screw the housing back together depending on the size of your fittings. Don’t use electrical tape as it will slip when heated up. There is even a extra hole to put a led/switch were the key chuck use to be. If you need any help on this stage with wiring/soldering just let me know. [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]3.[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="]Assemble & use.[/FONT][FONT="][/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="] [/FONT]

[FONT="]Power info on the Joye 510 Atomizer[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]The heating elements on these units are rated about 4 -5 watts. 4 watts is perfect very smooth smoke… I can leave my rocker switch on for about 10-20 seconds for very smooth cool smoke puff after puff. Or if you want a massive amount of smoke you can go around 5 watts. (be warned it uses more liquid & will burn up atomizer faster)[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="] Please note I use wattage to describe the heating element. I see too many people using only voltage… when they should using power/wattage to describe the power source /destination.[/FONT]

[FONT="]When I get time I’ll post some more of my modifications up. I’ve done many experiments with lasers, ultrasonic, microwaves, & homebuilt heating elements. I’m currently working on a vapor king monster similar to a herb vaporizer with a long lasting heating element for home use.[/FONT]:thumb:

For wattage/power calculations -
multiple voltage by amperage.
For example
5 volts @ 800ma 5 x .800 = 4 watts
5 volts @ 1000ma 5 x 1.000 = 5 watts
12 volts @ 350ma 12 x 0.350 = 4.2 watts
12 volts @ 400ma 12 x 0.400 = 4.8 watts
 
Last edited:

steven.rn

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 1, 2009
503
48
Ohio
[FONT="]Homemade dremel vaporizer - Easy MOD for beginners + 510 smooth smoke info[/FONT][/COLOR]

IMAGE IS AT : [URL="http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/6375/dremelvapor.jpg"][FONT="]http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/6375/dremelvapor.jpg[/FONT][/URL]

[COLOR=black][FONT="]Let me start by introducing myself... My name is ZeroNullity, I’ve been an e-smoker for awhile and a “former” smoker much longer. I’m also a Electronic Engineer & Unix Computer Administrator . I thought I would share this easy mod with everyone. The good thing about this mod is you don’t have to do any modifications to the housing just unscrew it put your atty & wiring in. I currently have it hooked up to a power supply so that I can plug it into any 110v~ outlet. However there is plenty of room in the case if you want to add a rechargeable battery & charging circuit …. If you have soldering experience it takes less then 10 minutes to make one of these.[/FONT]


[FONT="]Required Materials:[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]1.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Cheap dremel knockoff – ones found in cheap silver/metal cases. You can find them in many different colors I just happen to have a blue one on hand.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]2.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Dead battery from your favorite e-cig. You’ll be using this for the atty fitting. I use a 510. But any atomizer battery fitting should work.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]3.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Power source – Wall wart (output rated at 4w-5w), Variable Power Supply, Battery/Charging circuit or USB Circuit (with heavy protection circuit) depending your personal preference of power.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]4.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Good atty, cartridge, & e-liquid.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]5.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Tools – screwdriver, soldering iron + solder, and masking tape is all you need.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=black][FONT="]Procedure:[/FONT]

[FONT="]1.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="]Take apart cheap dremel knockoff casing. Remove motor, shaft, and key chuck.[/FONT]
[FONT="]2.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="]Wire your atty & power circuit into place. I won’t get too detailed here… because it will depend on your needs. If you want to use a power supply like I do (variable power supply to adjust the heat of the atomizer) or maybe you want to use a battery, etc. You may need to add some masking tape around the atomizer fitting so it will stay in place when you screw the housing back together depending on the size of your fittings. Don’t use electrical tape as it will slip when heated up. There is even a extra hole to put a led/switch were the key chuck use to be. If you need any help on this stage with wiring/soldering just let me know. [/FONT]

[FONT="]3.[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT="]Assemble & use.[/FONT]

[FONT="]Power info on the Joye 510 Atomizer[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]The heating elements on these units are rated about 4 -5 watts. 4 watts is perfect very smooth smoke… I can leave my rocker switch on for about 10-20 seconds for very smooth cool smoke puff after puff. Or if you want a massive amount of smoke you can go around 5 watts. (be warned it uses more liquid & will burn up atomizer faster)[/FONT]

[FONT="]Please note I use wattage to describe the heating element. I see too many people using only voltage… when they should using power/wattage to describe the power source /destination.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]When I get time I’ll post some more of my modifications up. I’ve done many experiments with lasers, ultrasonic, microwaves, & homebuilt heating elements. I’m currently working on a vapor king monster similar to a herb vaporizer with a long lasting heating element for home use.[/FONT]
:thumb:

For wattage/power calculations -
multiple voltage by amperage.
For example
5 volts @ 800ma 5 x .800 = 4 watts
5 volts @ 1000ma 5 x 1.000 = 5 watts
12 volts @ 350ma 12 x 0.350 = 4.2 watts
12 volts @ 400ma 12 x 0.400 = 4.8 watts

Ya know, I'm already looking forward to a bunch of way interesting posts by zeronullity- also bud, I'd ask if you could do a photo of the casing on that open so we could see how you wired it too, if you get a chance ;-)
 

ZeroNullity

Full Member
Nov 8, 2009
56
2
Nashville, TN
Ya know, I'm already looking forward to a bunch of way interesting posts by zeronullity- also bud, I'd ask if you could do a photo of the casing on that open so we could see how you wired it too, if you get a chance ;-)

It's very simple the way I have that one.... pretend you have transformer.... there are two wires a positive & negative.... now wire it directly to the atomizer fitting. And put a switch between one of the wires doesn't matter which side goes to which since it's a non-directional heating element. If you don't like a rocker switch, you can even add push button switch, led, etc.
The extra room in the case allows for more complex setups including battery mods, etc..
 

Doctor Vapor

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 9, 2009
416
2
66
Charleston, SC USA
www.youtube.com
Ya know, I'm already looking forward to a bunch of way interesting posts by zeronullity- also bud, I'd ask if you could do a photo of the casing on that open so we could see how you wired it too, if you get a chance ;-)

I'd like to see this as well. And if you could aslo post pics of how you wired the dead battery in I'd appreciate that as well...I'm a bit unclear on this. A little more detail on what and how to remove the parts from the dremel would be good too.

Thanks
 
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ZeroNullity

Full Member
Nov 8, 2009
56
2
Nashville, TN
Here is a photo of the simple setup... sorry guys I often forget that most people don't have in-depth knowledge of electronics. As far as electronics go it can't get any easier then this.... But maybe I can explain better, with more drawings & photos in the future... I'll be sure to do that with my moderate & expert level setups when time permits.

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/4605/dremelapart.jpg

Under the tape you have a atomizer fitting from a battery, a atomizer, then as you can see the cartridge. After the switch the wires lead to a power supply. In my case it's a variable power supply that can adjust the heat.... but a simple wall-wart transformer will do the job just fine. I posted this one first because I thought it would be quick & easy for most people to make =)
 

ZeroNullity

Full Member
Nov 8, 2009
56
2
Nashville, TN
I'd like to see this as well. And if you could aslo post pics of how you wired the dead battery in I'd appreciate that as well...I'm a bit unclear on this. A little more detail on what and how to remove the parts from the dremel would be good too.

Thanks

The actual dead battery doesn't get wired in.... you only use the "screw-in" part from the dead battery. so you can easily remove the atomizer from the unit when it goes bad. You take the whole "screw-in" piece from the battery and discard the rest.... casing, li-ion battery, etc.
 

Doctor Vapor

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 9, 2009
416
2
66
Charleston, SC USA
www.youtube.com
Zero;

Your pics and info so far have been a real help. This is a very easy mod to make even for clueless guys like me. I am having a problem finding the power supply you spoke of. I went to Wal-Mart and couldn't find anything...the people who work there never heard of it (not surprising), the same thing happened at Lowes, and Ace Hardware. I think I may not understand what you mean by your description. I am assuming the Variable Power Supply is a unit that plugs into the wall and can be adjusted to transform the power down to 4W to 5W. The dremel tool then plugs into the Variable Power Supply. Am I correct in this assumption, or am I way off base?

Welcome to the wonderful world of "Mods For ......".
 

ZeroNullity

Full Member
Nov 8, 2009
56
2
Nashville, TN
Zero;

Your pics and info so far have been a real help. This is a very easy mod to make even for clueless guys like me. I am having a problem finding the power supply you spoke of. I went to Wal-Mart and couldn't find anything...the people who work there never heard of it (not surprising), the same thing happened at Lowes, and Ace Hardware. I think I may not understand what you mean by your description. I am assuming the Variable Power Supply is a unit that plugs into the wall and can be adjusted to transform the power down to 4W to 5W. The dremel tool then plugs into the Variable Power Supply. Am I correct in this assumption, or am I way off base?

Welcome to the wonderful world of "Mods For ......".

You are correct... like I said it's that simple.
However there is enough room if you want to get rid of the wire & use a battery. But that's a few steps up from this easy mod.



This is like what I use...

http://electronickits.com/kit/complete/powe/HY3005D.jpg

However a simple AC to DC transformer/"AC ADAPTER"/"Wall wart" will work... like they use in many electronics.... cordless phones, cell phone chargers, etc. Just make sure you use the correct wattage.

This is not the type I use... however it will work the same.... you just can't adjust the heat of the atomizer on the fly.

http://www.ladyada.net/images/parts/acplug.jpg

yet another example....

http://www.dmcleish.com/CPF/7060LAPD/7060Kit.jpg

and another....

http://homepage.mac.com/nephilim/imagineerieing/images/busts_gameboy_adapter.png

yet another one

http://www.boutiquemusicinc.com/e-store/images/US_Blues/AC9_Adapter.gif

So long as the output wattage is within par (which is about 5 watts)... you should be good.

Many people will have one within range from an old DC electronic that's bit the dust or not used any more... but if you have to buy one... a electronic store will have one... even most major chains... it doesn't matter what it's for as long as the output wattage is same.
 
Ummm... if your looking for a specific brand/model... I think Palm adapters used for the charging cradles of Palm Pilots m500 series is ... 5v @ 1000ma or 5 watts that would probably be perfect.... I'm sure many people... have these lying around from dead units =)

Palm Cradle Power Adapter Charger Zire m500 Tungsten T - eBay (item 130342908850 end time Nov-12-09 19:24:46 PST)

Another example that might work...

Home Wall Plug AC to DC Adapter Charger for Mp3/Mp4 - eBay (item 140355697432 end time Nov-26-09 21:10:34 PST)

Or like this...

MOTOROLA CELL PHONE CHARGER FMP202A 5V~850A - eBay (item 170405572910 end time Nov-17-09 18:50:44 PST)

Many of these should work provided the ratings on the label are correct...

Going slightly higher.. is okay too... just have to lower the power to the circuit.

The last one would probably produce much less vapor then the first two... but extend the life of the atomizer & use less liquid.
 
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Amperage ratings are a maximum, not a constant value. A 5v 100A wallwart would provide the same 1.2A drawn from your ecig as a 5v 2A wallwart, you don't have to lower any power anywhere.


No actually it wouldn't... 5v @ 100ma is not enough to power these atomizers. Don't take my word give it a try. Power output of these transformers are typically within 0.5v+/- & 0.50ma+/- output. Just like you can fry a electronic device using the wrong power adapter even using the same rated voltage output.. same goes for the heating element. And drawing more power then a transformer is rated for would overheat it.
 
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mnealtx

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 16, 2009
986
274
60
Camp Bondsteel, Kosovo
[FONT="][/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="] Please note I use wattage to describe the heating element. I see too many people using only voltage… when they should using power/wattage to describe the power source /destination.[/FONT]

Volts/amps are fine. Telling someone to add resistors to the atomizer in their 5v mod until it reads 4 ohms is no different than telling them to put their power at 6.25 watts, and a whole lot easier for them to figure out because all they need is a multimeter and to remember "4 ohms".

[FONT="]Power info on the Joye 510 Atomizer[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=black][FONT="]The heating elements on these units are rated about 4 -5 watts.


Interesting - the 15 that I've bought all ran between 2 and 2.3 ohms. At 3.7v, that works out to a range of 5.95 to 6.8 watts. I guess the e-cig batteries aren't the only things that are getting overworked.[/FONT]
 
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mnealtx

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 16, 2009
986
274
60
Camp Bondsteel, Kosovo
No actually it wouldn't... 5v @ 100ma is not enough to power these atomizers. Don't take my word give it a try. Power output of these transformers are typically within 0.5v+/- & 0.50ma+/- output. Just like you can fry a electronic device using the wrong power adapter even using the same rated voltage output.. same goes for the heating element. And drawing more power then a transformer is rated for would overheat it.

He said 100A, not 100ma.
 
Volts/amps are fine. Telling someone to add resistors to the atomizer in their 5v mod until it reads 4 ohms is no different than telling them to put their power at 6.25 watts, and a whole lot easier for them to figure out because all they need is a multimeter and to remember "4 ohms".




Interesting - the 15 that I've bought all ran between 2 and 2.3 ohms. At 3.7v, that works out to a range of 5.95 to 6.8 watts. I guess the e-cig batteries aren't the only things that are getting overworked.[/font][/color]

I never said the heating element wouldn't work at a higher wattage then 5 watts. But rather how it works at different power consumptions (heat ranges). As far as me stating the units appear to be 4-5 watts.. I'm stating this appears to be the best heat range. I doubt that the normal power consumption would be rated at 7 watts even on a new OEM battery. Have you done actual power readings instead of basing it off of circuit design?


He said 100A, not 100ma.

Yes you are correct I apologize for the oversight.
 
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noslenil

Full Member
Oct 21, 2009
7
0
TRYING USING PVC PIPE fOR A BATTERY HOLDER or power pack .works good .1/2 inch cold works good for 3 C batterys TAKE APART the dead 510 take the light off the end pull out the center wire hook that to positive on battery pack PVC pipe battery hook - neg. to case of old 510 battery + to center wire. you use 3 D batterys 3C - 3 AAA use 1/2 hot PVC for 3AAA
and rock and roll . ................
Ya know, I'm already looking forward to a bunch of way interesting posts by zeronullity- also bud, I'd ask if you could do a photo of the casing on that open so we could see how you wired it too, if you get a chance ;-)
 
TRYING USING PVC PIPE fOR A BATTERY HOLDER or power pack .works good .1/2 inch cold works good for 3 C batterys TAKE APART the dead 510 take the light off the end pull out the center wire hook that to positive on battery pack PVC pipe battery hook - neg. to case of old 510 battery + to center wire. you use 3 D batterys 3C - 3 AAA use 1/2 hot PVC for 3AAA
and rock and roll . ................

Yep, endless variations of cases & power sources... this is only one. I had many of these lying around... so I decided to be creative with one. It's personal preference on what you like, can afford, or construct. Just giving someone another idea is all, as they are fairly common items ... and require no machine shop work. Just solder a few points... & your done. No drilling, measuring, etc.. needed. I will however post more advanced plans as time permits.
 

mnealtx

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 16, 2009
986
274
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Camp Bondsteel, Kosovo
As far as me stating the units appear to be 4-5 watts.. I'm stating this appears to be the best heat range.

Ok, so you were stating your opinion - the way you wrote it, it seemed that you were stating it as fact.

I doubt that the normal power consumption would be rated at 7 watts even on a new OEM battery. Have you done actual power readings instead of basing it off of circuit design?

That's off actual voltage/resistance readings from OEM equipment; a 3.7v battery and atomizers ranging from 2.0 to 2.3 ohms.

3.7 volts into 2.3 ohms equals 1.6087 amps
3.7 volts times 1.6087 amps equals 5.95 watts

3.7 volts into 2 ohms equals 1.85 amps.
3.7 volts times 1.85 amps equals 6.845 watts.
 
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