I'm running a tobh atty on a panzer clone...dual coil tiger wire.5ohm and using sony 18650 2100mah 3.7v battery. All has been great, but i've noticed today that my firing button was getting hot, and sometimes it wouldn't fire. I've changed batteries, and rebuilt the mod, to insure the connections were good, and insured my coils weren't shorting by touching the cover...but now i'm stuck. I can still fiddle with it, and it'll work, but it's still getting unusually hot at the button. Also the piece of the mod that holds the firing button is currently stuck...very tight. all of the standard and reverse threading can get confusing, and I certainly screwed it down to tight...and can't seem to get it loose again. Help!!!
hot firing button
- Thread starter Cyberninja
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Ok, I believe you have a short somewhere, Do you have another pv you can use till someone more knowledgeable than I comes along that can go thru with you what all to check? Do you have a multimeter? You are going to need one. You need to stop fooling with the Panzer and topper for now, before something bad happens.
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Something isn't right, 4.2v / .5 ohms = 8.4 amps & 35.28 watts, well within the 'safe' range of a sony vtc4 battery.
That is if you bought the battery from a reputable dealer, there are many re wrapped lesser quality batteries on the market being sold as vtc4 & 5's.
What do / did you use to verify the .5 ohm coils?
That is if you bought the battery from a reputable dealer, there are many re wrapped lesser quality batteries on the market being sold as vtc4 & 5's.
What do / did you use to verify the .5 ohm coils?
It could be that your coil or coils have hot spots. You mentioned you made sure your coils are not touching the cap, did you also make sure it is NOT touching any part of the deck and NOT touching any of the posts?
Did you take apart your firing button and clean it along with the switch assembly?
Also try cleaning your threads.
Make sure you have a genuine Sony battery, the VTC4s should look the VTC5s
How to spot a fake Sony VTC5 battery
***Also you really need to GET an ohm reader, and get one that reads 3 digits as an example with your coil build 0.52 ohms anything reading only 2 digits will show 0.5 ohms when it can be anywhere between 0.45-0.54 ohms.***
Did you take apart your firing button and clean it along with the switch assembly?
Also try cleaning your threads.
Make sure you have a genuine Sony battery, the VTC4s should look the VTC5s
How to spot a fake Sony VTC5 battery
***Also you really need to GET an ohm reader, and get one that reads 3 digits as an example with your coil build 0.52 ohms anything reading only 2 digits will show 0.5 ohms when it can be anywhere between 0.45-0.54 ohms.***
I have an ohm reader...it's now reading .17ohms...I swear it was higher when It was first built...no way i'd start a build there...
I can't clean the firing button assembly...it's stuck screwed in tight. I don't want to get pliers and scratch my panzer.
Yes the batteries are all legit
I can't clean the firing button assembly...it's stuck screwed in tight. I don't want to get pliers and scratch my panzer.
Yes the batteries are all legit
Try putting the part that is stuck in the freezer for about 10 min. Also check the screws on your atty and make sure they are tight.
ok I got the firing button piece unscrewed...and there is a black dot on the connection button. I don't have any fine grit sandpaper to clean it. The spring is kind of wimpy...still not sure what the cause of the hot firing button is...
Probably due to the fact that your ohm reader says it's .17 ohms not .5 as you thought it was going to be.
.17 ohms is definitely a very low build. That being said, you need to clean all of the connections in the firing button mechanism as Tayone said. 9 out of 10 times that has fixed my "hot button" issues. Clean the threads and all sections of the button assembly. I would recommend using rubbing alcohol and a fine scouring pad (scotchbrite). No need to do anything to the external portion.
Then rebuild your coils! At the very least, get the resistance back up near the .5 that you had it originally.
Then rebuild your coils! At the very least, get the resistance back up near the .5 that you had it originally.
maybe if I clean my coils it'll get the ohm reading back where it previously was. and i'll clean it up tonight after work.
Doubtful, but even if it did, I probably wouldn't trust it... I'd just pull the coils and build new ones. That would also give you better access to check out your terminals in the Tobh. There is no good reason for resistance to suddenly drop that far below the original .5
You'll want to completely disassemble the firing button mechanism for cleaning, also. Make sure to get all of the little nooks and crannies...
I have had ohms change after dry burning and squeezing coils but never to that extent. The only time I have had that kind of fluctuation has been from screws loosening. Thank God, I haven't had a short yet. I would put that battery aside and try another one after you clean it all up. I am a bit wimpy when it comes to batteries: I use a battery rated a lot higher than I need and won't use them if there is any question of damage. I was given two trustfires. I have one left....first one got warm and I tossed it. The second is here but only for regulated mods. I tried the first one in a mech...I was young and stupid then. Never use a battery with Fire in the name. *bowing to battery gurus*
I would absolutely agree with this. I've had ohms change under those same circumstances... but never by more than .05 to .1 max change. I've never had a loose screw problem (no pun intended), I wrap a small piece of teflon tape (for plumbing) around the threads. Keeps them tight and doesn't mess with resistance. I'm right there with ya on the batteries too... I tossed a Sony battery because the shrink wrap had started to crack... lol... I know full well the battery was still good, I just didn't like the way it was looking at me!
I dry burned the coils...I don't have my ohm reader here to see if it did anything. I'm not positive what the initial ohm reading started at, as it was built by the guy at the shop I bought from. It was low, but not quite as low as it last read. I can get it to fire if I push the firing button on the edge...but if I push center it may or may not fire. I'm sure it needs a cleaning since I see that black spot in the center of the connection. I've read that wimpy springs can cause heating and that I should upgrade with a magnet kit. But I don't know much about how to do that.
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