kts fire button gets hot

[markspeters]

Awesome info- thanks! Though my issue is not any hot button whatsoever (new to the forum and can't start a new thread)... The thing just won't fire!? Seems to be in great condition other than a sloppy weld connecting the spring to the center post. Any troubleshooting suggestions? Should I get a new ggts or mkb-ts bottom cap assembly?


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[cableparrot]

I just thought of this, if you are flooding the atomizer of the AGA, then it will not fire properly because there's too much liquid for it to heat quickly. Try filling the tank all the way, then wipe down the atomizer base and firing perpendicular to the ground. Just a thought, I noticed a few problems with it.

 

[markspeters]

That makes sense but the aga fires fine on a pen battery (like ego). Not really sure what's wrong..


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[yabani]

use sandpaper on connectors.

 

[ubergeek922]

I do not have one, this is based solely on the pictures you provided.
If you assemble it but leave the top cap off and the battery out, look down inside the tube. You should see the post on the switch be very close to the post which supports the battery. Press the switch, can you see the switch post make contact with the battery post? If not, there's the problem. If yes, continue.
Place a battery in the tube, leave the top cap off. Using a meter, put the red lead on the top of the battery, put the black lead anywhere on the outside of the tube. It should read 0v. Press the button, it should now read whatever the battery voltage is. If you get voltage, the issue would be in the top cap or the pin which contacts the battery. If no voltage, it's the switch. Report back what ya find and we'll go from there.

 

[gokusnimbus]

had the same problem with my Drawtube Smart v1, which is a similar configuration--bottom side switch. i dont know how yours looks on the inside and what materials were used inside your switch but i can tell you that the Drawtube v1 has a big design flaw. it was not made for sub-ohm set ups. the high current flowing through my pv was stopped by the poor conductive materials within the switch. this weak point acts like a huge resistor and gets HOT.

.6 ohms makes it extremely hot. it got so hot that my friend burned his finger. i think it actually arc'd. anyway it finally died when the button got too hot and collapse the switch spring. now the switch is all loosey goosey and sucks.

whats your ohm resistance on your build?

 

[torpedo200]

I used to have the hot switch problem on my Chinese GG clone. Just sand down the contact points on the button and the negative pole with some 400 grit sandpaper. Improves the conductivity of the whole mod.

 

[BigBen2k]

...

This, is a problem.

It isn't a properly designed switch; the contact area is minimal, and prone to arcing (a little dielectric grease might be in order here).

There's no way to file a flat spot on the inner post, and hope it'll align itself with the button, each time the cap is screwed back on. There's also no way to file the button contact, because it's not turning freely (when pressed).

The only fix I see here, is to remove that button completely, and replace it with a proper switch, and wire it to the bottom cap's post. Messy.

Yeah, I wouldn't sub-ohm with it either.

 

[markspeters]

Boom!

Sanded spring, cleaned up weld, sanded axis post, button, and inner pin on top cap all down to brass.. Hits nice so far. Thanks for the help everyone!


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[markspeters]

Oh yea, also put some noalox on threads/contact points.


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[natedawgdaboss]

I just recently made a .4ohms build and my button got super hot.... turns out the spring inside collapsed so the spring is resistive and my mod fired it just a heads up

 

[ut1205]

I'm not an expert vaper but I do know quiet a bit about electricity. If you're getting heat then it is because of high resistance. The switch or button is the weak point as far a conductivity. It sounds to me like the amount of watts/amps you are demanding exceeds the rating of the switch/button. A 1.8 ohm coil (available for Pro Tank) at 3.7 volts is about 7.5 watts. Are you getting a hot button under that scenario?

 

[eltranced]

i just got a week ago kts+ in a store with crazy 150% mark up ( bitter about that)... so for a whole week tried to make it work... the button along with tank and bottom were getting hotter then hot .. if there was warm, hot, hotter then hot and blistering... it was getting to blistering level .... i had to hold it in a towel... tried with ICR and IMR 30 amp batteries, tried 20 different coils with 30 and 28 wire so today went back and they admitted it was defective and gave me a new one (thanks)... so far so good . atty is getting hot , body is warm but the button is fine. btw i even sanded the contacts on first one didnt help and wasnt the atty because ran fine with c-twist ...


Update*

After a day second one was doing the same... store said they know how to fix it, by replacing the bottom post, but no more kts+ for me, went for k100+

 

[SuperLamer]

I had this issue today. Sanded battery post down to brass. Lightly sanded button contact post. Fixed issue.

 

[dbev]

Just came across this thread . . . did you ever figure it out markspeters? If not make sure the center post of the AGA T2 is making contact with the positive post of the KTS.

 

[Crazy_cambo]

I have a kts coming in the mail. I've read to sand down all contact points before use to avoid hot fire button. Hopefully I'll do everything correctly.

 

[denali_41]

I've had 3 of these so far,,only the only time i ever get a hot button is when neglect to clean under the button

simply slide a paper towel between the button and lock ring all the way around,and go,,these babys are bullet proof