How I solved top coil hotspot issue on my DID clone, or any genesis

[thevyrus]

Here is a quick Video I put together explaining a method I use to make my DiD clone work more like an rsst or any atty with an insulated wick hole in how they in reduce hotspots. This is my own, simple method I discovered through trial and error. Hope this helps someone, as I have been frustrated with this problem for weeks.


Insulated Wick on DID Clone - Top Coil Hotspot Solved!

 

[Thrasher]

the hotspot is usually from improper tension in the wire lead.

but for the beginners out there any help is appreciated.

 

[rnln]

Will the Teflon tape burn? Most likely it will, right?

Here is a quick Video I put together explaining a method I use to make my DiD clone work more like an rsst or any atty with an insulated wick hole in how they in reduce hotspots. This is my own, simple method I discovered through trial and error. Hope this helps someone, as I have been frustrated with this problem for weeks.


Insulated Wick on DID Clone - Top Coil Hotspot Solved!

 

[thevyrus]

Thrasher, thank you. You are absolutely right, its a matter of tension, but like i mentioned in the video i tried several different tensions and coiling methods to no avail. The coils would work fine fresh and last a couple tanks or so. Sometimes many more tanks even. But eventually my coils would get that hotspot, its never initially. I hypothesize that its due to expansion of the coil over time considering the high voltage i put through it at the lowest resistance read by the vamo. It is much easier if i just had a knack for getting that tension right, but had to resort to other measures (aka cop out, cheat) to compensate for this problem i was runnin into time and time again. Will be really happy when i wont need to use this tape and can get it working for a long time, i actually do have one set up without it and its on its 3rd tank woth no issues (finger crossed)

Rnin, yes, burning is definitely an issue, but steps can be taken to avoid it. One, you got to start that bottom coil up higher than you normally would, keeping that negative leg up off of the deck, and second, if there is any visible tape protruding upwards, you can pinch/flatten it down with a flat head (i use the flat end of a steel bobby pin for this). So when you look at it there should be a gap between the deck and bottom coil. also, I used to burn the rubber grommet aroud the base of the center post several times when i first got this atty, which is the stock setup and is not supposed to happen and is not safe, i imagine. i had to learn how to wrap my coil to avoid that. I feel this is the same thing, as you can burn the rubber, u can burn this plumbers tape as well with the coil, just create space. My tape is pretty much flush with the wick hole opening all around, no issues, tape is still white after i clean up the juice around it. You may be talking about the wick getting hot and burning the tape that way, but this also hasnt happened in my experience. i think it can take the heat to a certain extent from the mesh but not the glowing coil obviously. Please use your own discretion and try at your own risk. I am not an expert on anything, its just trial and error. Hope it helped, it has worked for me.

 

[shroom]

I use a method I learned from someone's video. I pock a wick with a paper clip wire where hot spots are untill a coil fully lights up.
Thevyrus thank you for sharing another good method.

 

[rnln]

I see what you are saying. Thanks. Will try when I replace my coil.

Thrasher, thank you. You are absolutely right, its a matter of tension, but like i mentioned in the video i tried several different tensions and coiling methods to no avail. The coils would work fine fresh and last a couple tanks or so. Sometimes many more tanks even. But eventually my coils would get that hotspot, its never initially. I hypothesize that its due to expansion of the coil over time considering the high voltage i put through it at the lowest resistance read by the vamo. It is much easier if i just had a knack for getting that tension right, but had to resort to other measures (aka cop out, cheat) to compensate for this problem i was runnin into time and time again. Will be really happy when i wont need to use this tape and can get it working for a long time, i actually do have one set up without it and its on its 3rd tank woth no issues (finger crossed)

Rnin, yes, burning is definitely an issue, but steps can be taken to avoid it. One, you got to start that bottom coil up higher than you normally would, keeping that negative leg up off of the deck, and second, if there is any visible tape protruding upwards, you can pinch/flatten it down with a flat head (i use the flat end of a steel bobby pin for this). So when you look at it there should be a gap between the deck and bottom coil. also, I used to burn the rubber grommet aroud the base of the center post several times when i first got this atty, which is the stock setup and is not supposed to happen and is not safe, i imagine. i had to learn how to wrap my coil to avoid that. I feel this is the same thing, as you can burn the rubber, u can burn this plumbers tape as well with the coil, just create space. My tape is pretty much flush with the wick hole opening all around, no issues, tape is still white after i clean up the juice around it. You may be talking about the wick getting hot and burning the tape that way, but this also hasnt happened in my experience. i think it can take the heat to a certain extent from the mesh but not the glowing coil obviously. Please use your own discretion and try at your own risk. I am not an expert on anything, its just trial and error. Hope it helped, it has worked for me.

 

[thevyrus]

I use a method I learned from someone's video. I pock a wick with a paper clip wire where hot spots are untill a coil fully lights up.
Thevyrus thank you for sharing another good method.

Shroom, thank you for pointing that out. That little poking may be all that is necessary, but for me, setting up the coils initially and getting em to burn evenly was never an issue. It was always after a tank or so of juice through that that stubborn top coil would get fiery hot. I too poke an prod each of my coils, even with plumbers tape and my rsst, during the initial setup and test fires to get the even glow. This method is more for (i theorize) insurance that the top coil wont get hot over prolonged use. My rsst and the stock did clone without the tape would look identical during the setup and test fire, only thing is rsst has survived and is still performing, where as the clone would crap out with that hotspot after a while. Hope this clarifies the reason i tried this method. More about prolong life and consistency of the coil than helping to set it up right. Congrats to you and others who are avoiding this issue with just manual adjustments, i could not keep a coil working for over a few days without this method. I strongly believe i am more prone to these hotspots and issues because im constantly running between 15-17 watts on this atty through my vamo on stacked batts. I think (may be wrong) if i put less stress on the coil by lowering the voltage to 3.7-8 vs 4.2-3, it may burn out less. But i needs my vapor production, oh well.

 

[thevyrus]

I see what you are saying. Thanks. Will try when I replace my coil.

Rnin, best of luck. Let us know how it fares for you when you redo the coil

 

[Thrasher]

Shroom, thank you for pointing that out. That little poking may be all that is necessary, but for me, setting up the coils initially and getting em to burn evenly was never an issue. It was always after a tank or so of juice through that that stubborn top coil would get fiery hot.

hmm sounds like the wire is losing tension/changing shape after it gets hot a few times or the wick is too loose and maybe moving around in the wick hole.

OR like i seen in another atty the actual center pin/nut isnt tight enough and any playing with the atty actually turns the center pin and pulls on the wire lead.

i would try pretorching the wire before wrapping -going to the drillbit method or trying a different gauge wire and make sure the wick fits the hole correctly.


just kinda thinking/typing out loud lol what ever works for you

 

[thevyrus]

Thrasher, i actually have tried all those methods you mentioned in different scenarios. I run the coils HOT and i feel that does play into it a good deal and cause expansion, as the coils all initially work fine for a while (i must add that with higher gauge kanthal with higher resistance and lower wattage setups, the hotspot issue is greatly reduced for me). Another consideration would be to quickly clean my coils daily as buildup would lower resistance and possibly get the coils to run too hot and create the issue (?). Nevertheless i have spent what seems like an endless amount of time fiddling with different ways to wrap (cig paper, drill bit, tight big wick, loose wick, using washers on the post, removing a nut, just wrapping the wire completely around the post, wrapping top coil loose/tight/womewhere in middle etc) and they were hit or miss, most suffering from a hotspot on top after a few tanks. I think the coil i wrapped with the drillbit did work well, and it actually could have still been performing, but as the tinkerer i am, i think i dismantled it before it failed. I think ill revisit that method if this plumbers tape thing lets me down.

Rambling aside, all in all, i just noted one of the key differences between the rsst and the did clone.i took that insulated wick hole concept and applied to the did clone in hopes it would eliminate the problem like the rsst does (which i wrap identically to the did clone with cig paper and all). so far so good.

 

[Mattmancool34]

This thread help me out with my issue. My damn thumb screws on my aga t2 kept putting to much tension on the wire when tightened. Not a really big fan of these thumb screws.

 

[BigDiesel]

I try this, thanks!