How to dry burn an LR 306 atty?

[ltrainer]

Just wondering how one goes about dry burning a Cisco LR 306 atty. I could just toss it in the garbage but if I could save it, why not give it a try.

I vaped this atty for 5 weeks straight about 4-5 ml a day so its done its service. The atty's ohm still check out fine but the draw is really getting tight..sorta like a thick milk shake.

All I have is the Grand with an 18650 battery to do the dry burn.

Any thoughts appreciated and I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Lightgeoduck]

Well I would personally do this with the atty exposed (no cart or tip ) push and hold the button of the device.

I would then hold the device horizontally and blow on the atty while the device is activated.
once you see a red glow you should be semi-gunk free..
let it completely cool and then give it a try to see if that did the trick.

doing this in a dimly lit area would make it easier to see the glow (IMO)

good luck

 

[Mudflap]

Have you tried reaming out the air holes with a small drill bit or something? Any soaking in PGA or something?

 

[ltrainer]

Hi MUdflap,

I've cleaned it with isopropyl achohol and boiled it as wellbut it still draws hard. Do you mean the airhole in the bottom end where the threads are?

Have you tried reaming out the air holes with a small drill bit or something? Any soaking in PGA or something?

 

[ltrainer]

Can you see the coil on these attys? THe bridge seems to cover the coil and the coil looks like its completely enclosed by the atty.

Well I would personally do this with the atty exposed (no cart or tip ) push and hold the button of the device.

I would then hold the device horizontally and blow on the atty while the device is activated.
once you see a red glow you should be semi-gunk free..
let it completely cool and then give it a try to see if that did the trick.

doing this in a dimly lit area would make it easier to see the glow (IMO)

good luck

 

[Rhapsodies Fire]

Hi MUdflap,

I've cleaned it with isopropyl achohol and boiled it as wellbut it still draws hard. Do you mean the airhole in the bottom end where the threads are?

MX has drilled out one of the holes you speak of with 5/64" drill bit...but a 1/16" will work as well. It seems to clear up the draw considerably. Works well on the LR510s too!

 

[Mudflap]

Hi MUdflap,

I've cleaned it with isopropyl achohol and boiled it as wellbut it still draws hard. Do you mean the airhole in the bottom end where the threads are?

Not the very bottom of the atty, just above the threads where the air holes are. I haven't had to try this fix myself, but good ole Rhaps has pulled off another hit 'n run fantastic suggestion.

 

[Lightgeoduck]

Can you see the coil on these attys? THe bridge seems to cover the coil and the coil looks like its completely enclosed by the atty.

the coil is under the arch of the bridge.. you won't actually see the coil, but you will see it glow red after the gunk is off

 

[FeistyAlice]

I boil and dryburn all my attys. The LR306 is the hardest to dryburn without popping. I've been boiling and dryburning attys for 6 months and I've only popped one, a pretty new IKV LR 306. The best way to dry burn is using the pulsing method where you hit the button, pulsing, to keep the coil just at the beginning of a glow. 20 seconds is about the limit for most attys and for sure the LR 306. The reason I popped my LR 306 was because I pushed it beyond the 20 seconds. I let the atty cool down naturally between the pulsing dryburns. I stop doing the 20 second pulses when no more vapor comes off of them and they smell "new".

Before dry burning I always wrist flick the cleaned and/or boiled attys, blow out, and then let them dry well; in my case I set them in front of the Notebook exhaust for a few hours.

I have a good track record keeping attys going well for the two of us, using my cleaning methods. A couple of people have asked me to write up and post the technique but I just haven't had time.

In worst case scenarios, the wick that goes up to the bridge, on an LR 306, can be zapped with a hand held torch. A lighter won't do it as it will only blacken the wick. It is not hot enough to turn the scorched gunk to ash.

I am in the group of people who consider the extra wicking to be an advantage for the vaper and for the longevity of the LR 306. They work better and last longer if kept as moist as possible, while being used (not while stored though).

Another thing to keep in mind when storing cleaned attys is to have them completely dry and to keep moisture away from them. A good thing to have in the storage container for attys and cartos is desicant packages. You can find them in many pill bottles or order some from amazon. I've read, on ECF, of some people having their attys "rust" during long term storage.

Alice

 

[Big Hitter]

The dry burn doesn't really help the draw any IMO.

Steam cleaning it would probably bring it right back though.
For the 100th time I can say enough good things about a steam cleaner for EVERY vape tool box.

 

[TennDave]

The dry burn doesn't really help the draw any IMO.

Steam cleaning it would probably bring it right back though.
For the 100th time I can say enough good things about a steam cleaner for EVERY vape tool box.

I use the attachment to my coffee maker for making cappuccino for this, but have been told the extra pressure could pop an atty. So far, so good though- I only pop them during use.

 

[Big Hitter]

I use the attachment to my coffee maker for making cappuccino for this, but have been told the extra pressure could pop an atty. So far, so good though- I only pop them during use.

I've been blasting the crap out of them for months. Never had a problem.
I do most of the work throughout the connecter end. I'm a bit more careful blasting the top side.
Even with the darkest juice I can get the wick right back to white and the flavor like new.

The only exception I hace found is AVE Watermellon. That stuff is like paint. It will stain the kitchen counter so bad I needed bleach to clean it. And I have one Atty that will be pink for the rest of it's life

It's a good flavor to add to other juice though. A few watermelon drops in 6ml of boba's or Havana is pretty good.

 

[Shantia]

Have you tried reaming out the air holes with a small drill bit or something? Any soaking in PGA or something?

This can be a good idea, not saying this is the OP's problem at all.

One of the holes on one of the LR306 attys i had purchased was not drilled through, making the draw tight, and gave me quite a nasty flavor. Drilling the hole out helped a lot on the tight draw...

On to the dry burn, these can be dry burned but i would cut down the times you heat the element up by half, keeping it hot for no more then 5-10 seconds before rinsing it or letting it cool completely if you are following the detailed dry burn instructions found on this site. They are more sensitive then typical 510 atty's and can have the coil pop easier. I have not had this happen to me yet by being gentle with it. Good luck hope you can bring yours back to life.

 

[EvilGnome6]

I keep at least 3 atomizers in rotation. 1 in use, 1 soaking in Everclear (Vodka would be fine, too) and the rest drying. When the one in use starts to go South, I pop it in the jar of Everclear, and set the one that was soaking out to dry.

Then I'll grab a dry atomizer and do a quick dry burn. After a lengthy alcohol soak and letting it air dry a while, the remaining residue burns off very quickly. Just keep pulsing to maintain a nice orange glow until it doesn't give off any more smoke.

 

[canoeist]

I use the attachment to my coffee maker for making cappuccino for this, but have been told the extra pressure could pop an atty. So far, so good though- I only pop them during use.

Hate to dredge up an old thread but I just found this and realized that I had the perfect steam cleaner for my attys! The cappuccino machine! I use a ballpoint pen rubber grip over the atty and the steam wand and presto!!!!!!

So my question is now this.........Soak them in vodka first? Or just steam the fool out of them?