Hybrid Mod Safety

[gKrupa]

Before I purchased a SMPL I did a lot of research to ensure I was prepared to use a device with hybrid top cap, but I still have some questions. The point of this post is to gain an understanding of exactly what and what not to do with said device. For example: Sub-ohm tank with spring loaded 510, big no-no. rda with adjustable 510, A-OK.

My question is, to make things simple, what legitimate reason should I not use an RTA (I have Billow V2) with a hybrid to cap? It fits perfect/flush, button works fine, (about .010-.030" longer throw than derringer) No false fire (even if turned upside down.)

 

[Sgt.Rock]

How far does the center pin protrude past the threaded sleeve on the 510 connection on the bottom of the atty? It needs to be clearly longer than the threads... at least 1 mm past the threaded portion--more is better (safer)

If that center pin does not protrude you risk a dead short and the accompanying badness.

 

[Susan~S]

Video on hybrid top cap mech mods.

 

[edyle]

You need a topper with a protruding centerpin, not just adjustable; the centerpin must also not unintentionally end up getting screwed upward into the topper when you are screwing down on the battery - you avoid that by putting battery in after you screw on the topper.

All my toppers fit flush on all my mods, and no false fire even if turned upside down, and none of them are hybridlook mods.

To fit your topper flush on your mod, all you do is
- take the mod topcap off,
- back out the mod centerpin,
- and screw the cap onto the topper
- then screw the centerpin in for contact.

I bought a 10pack of topcaps and I just have topcaps permanently attached to my toppers.

If you want a true hybrid there is the elm rda and treeoflife mod.

 

[gKrupa]

Thanks everyone, you have all already been so helpful! There is approximately .635mm of clearance. I will look into this top cap idea.

 

[Sgt.Rock]

Thanks everyone, you have all already been so helpful! There is approximately .635mm of clearance. I will look into this top cap idea.

It's good to see someone ask this type of question. Asking the right questions is a really good thing

 

[Suryia]

Before I purchased a SMPL I did a lot of research to ensure I was prepared to use a device with hybrid top cap, but I still have some questions. The point of this post is to gain an understanding of exactly what and what not to do with said device. For example: Sub-ohm tank with spring loaded 510, big no-no. RDA with adjustable 510, A-OK.

My question is, to make things simple, what legitimate reason should I not use an RTA (I have Billow V2) with a hybrid to cap? It fits perfect/flush, button works fine, (about .010-.030" longer throw than derringer) No false fire (even if turned upside down.)

Make sure your positive pin extends a millimeter or more.beyond the bottom of your Billow v2! The problem happens when your battery touches the negative of your Billow (the circle surrounding your pin). Please use caution when using a hybrid top.

 

[Skunk!]

How do you like your smpl? I have been wanting to get one with a derringer atty. I really like how small that setup is.

 

[sonicbomb]

Another factor to consider is that the positive connector on 18650 batteries tend to become concave with use. This may eat your 510 safety margin alive, and turn your mod into a roman candle. Battery safety seems like a game until you have the unfortunate experience of a venting battery. Trust me, it's a real horror show that you want to avoid at all costs. Taking risks to life and limb for the sake of some largely esoteric advantage for what is after all a recreational activity is a little silly.

The testing I have done on the few mechs I have, shows me that the overall design and composition of a mod dictates the voltage drop to the greater extent. Under most conditions the main advantage of a hybrid style cap is the reduction in length of the mod, if thats important to you.

For example, on my Stingray X clone:

With the floating pin and standard top cap, the voltage drop at 0.33 ohms is 0.39 volts
With the hybrid style adapter at the same resistance, the drop is 0.36 volts.
Clearly the difference is negligible, unless you are an anally retentive competition guy/gal. Especially in the light of the safety issues.

 

[gKrupa]

It is my daily, purely for aesthetics/size. I use the up most caution with anything non-regulated. I wont use the billow specifically for the reason you mentioned with the positive becoming concave, I will just have to wait and come up with some money to get another compatible tank. I hear the orchid does well for this set-up, concerned about the airflow though.

 

[suprtrkr]

No reason any kind of topper wont work, RTA or RBA or anything else. The safety issue is the protrusion of the center pin. If you get good clearance on that, you should be fine.

 

[smacksy]

I had to modify the pin on my Arctic to protrude about 2mm to work safely on my XXIX mech that uses the hybrid top cap..As others have stated in this thread you can run anything you like as long as it has a protruding pin like seen here

BTW, the Arctic with the .2 ohm coil hits great!

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk

 

[nyiddle]

Lotta good info here, I was gonna come and give my rant about "hybrids" (not true hybrids, of course) and center pins, but I think everything important has been covered.

I hear the orchid does well for this set-up, concerned about the airflow though.

As a side note, the Orchid's pin should be fine, but I had an Orchid and I am not a fan. Could never get that son of a gun to stop leaking, so I eventually passed it on to a friend, @Humbardy -- who also couldn't get it to stop leaking... Your results may vary, though.

 

[smacksy]

Another factor to consider is that the positive connector on 18650 batteries tend to become concave with use. This may eat your 510 safety margin alive, and turn your mod into a roman candle. Battery safety seems like a game until you have the unfortunate experience of a venting battery. Trust me, it's a real horror show that you want to avoid at all costs. Taking risks to life and limb for the sake of some largely esoteric advantage for what is after all a recreational activity is a little silly.

The testing I have done on the few mechs I have, shows me that the overall design and composition of a mod dictates the voltage drop to the greater extent. Under most conditions the main advantage of a hybrid style cap is the reduction in length of the mod, if thats important to you.

For example, on my Stingray X clone:

With the floating pin and standard top cap, the voltage drop at 0.33 ohms is 0.39 volts
With the hybrid style adapter at the same resistance, the drop is 0.36 volts.
Clearly the difference is negligible, unless you are an anally retentive competition guy/gal. Especially in the light of the safety issues.

Well I agree on your beliefs to a point..
That said if care is taken adjusting the battery the positive connector stays flat,
least it is with me using the same 18650 batts for over 6 mos now...still as flat as the day I bought them..
And the voltage drop is a very low .07v on the mod itself thanks in part to the hybrid top cap, making my XXIX 18650 all copper mech one of the hardest hitting single batt mods I've ever had the pleasure to vape.. Just sayin

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk

 

[paulparnham]

I only really use hybrid top cap mechs.
I got rid of my "normal" mechs as the hybrids have lower voltage drops.
everything has been covered above

 

[nyiddle]

Well I agree on your beliefs to a point..
That said if care is taken adjusting the battery the positive connector stays flat,
least it is with me using the same 18650 batts for over 6 mos now...still as flat as the day I bought them..
And the voltage drop is a very low .07v on the mod itself thanks in part to the hybrid top cap, making my XXIX 18650 all copper mech one of the hardest hitting single batt mods I've ever had the pleasure to vape.. Just sayin

sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk

You should know, voltage drop under load is vastly different from voltage drop with no load. Without an atomizer attached you can't read the true voltage drop of the device/internal battery resistance.

Lower coil resistance = higher current. Higher current = more voltage drop in internal battery resistance/resistance against the mod. It is offset a bit by the fact that lower resistance also = current travels easier, but the "efficiency" factor is important.

To keep it simple, you don't know the voltage drop unless you're figuring the voltage drop under load. With no load, this is not an accurate test of the voltage drop.

 

[smacksy]

You should know, voltage drop under load is vastly different from voltage drop with no load. Without an atomizer attached you can't read the true voltage drop of the device/internal battery resistance.

Lower coil resistance = higher current. Higher current = more voltage drop in internal battery resistance/resistance against the mod. It is offset a bit by the fact that lower resistance also = current travels easier, but the "efficiency" factor is important.

To keep it simple, you don't know the voltage drop unless you're figuring the voltage drop under load. With no load, this is not an accurate test of the voltage drop.

Tell me all about it dude..lol
First I measure the voltage drop on the mod itself as posted above..and just so there is no confusion I'm posting the voltage drop firing the low .2 ohm BTDC coil in the Arctic...a .59v drop isn't bad for a .2 ohm coil on

a mech...great flavor/clouds too..

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