Hybrid top cap safety.

[conanthewarrior]

Hello everyone.

I am mainly a regulated mod user, but enjoy the odd use of a mech, with sensible builds, and now I feel my regulated collection is complete there are a few mechs I wish to get.

Today, I received an SMPL-I understand that RDA's should have a protruding positive pin due to the direct connection to the battery, so most of the day I have been using my Velocity, with enough pin sticking out, as this seems to not go back into the RDA when pressed, and the screw is also fairly stiff so it stays in place.

However, I wish to use a royal hunter RDA on there, the pin comes out no problem, and also does not go back into the mod. The only thing is, it is rather loose.

So, my question is, is it OK to use the royal hunter, putting the RDA on first, then inserting the battery, and screwing in the fire switch-or is it best not to use the royal hunter due to the screw easily being turned? I do not want a short to occur.

I ask this before using the Royal hunter, as I do not want to have any accidents, and advice would be appreciated, plus some RDA's that are good for hybrid style mods.

Thanks all, Conan.

 

[supertrunker]

i screw the hybrid connector onto the atty, check the protrusion of the pin and then screw the entire thing on the mod.

The fact it protrudes enough is your guide, it will not spin.

i use Dark Horses and Velocities mostly, but it's not difficult to be safe.

T

 

[VHRB2014]

If the 510 is adjustable and you have to screw it out to get it long enough to your liking, I put a o-ring or washer on it so that it does`nt get screwed/jiggled back in during use. I got some very tiny 3mm washers from Fatdaddy vapes that works on some, for some a o-ring works OK, and on some I wind up making a brand new insulator with delrin stock also purchased from Fatdaddy. Then I check with a eye lope and make sure it`s centered in the insulator while tight, lastly I put it on a ohm meter to make sure none of these adjustments has had a negative affect.

I like about this much stick out to feel good about it.

BOL.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Its not a hybrid.
A SMPL is a direct to battery mod.
Hybrids dont have 510 THREADS.

Hello everyone.

I am mainly a regulated mod user, but enjoy the odd use of a mech, with sensible builds, and now I feel my regulated collection is complete there are a few mechs I wish to get.

Today, I received an SMPL-I understand that RDA's should have a protruding positive pin due to the direct connection to the battery, so most of the day I have been using my Velocity, with enough pin sticking out, as this seems to not go back into the RDA when pressed, and the screw is also fairly stiff so it stays in place.

However, I wish to use a Royal hunter RDA on there, the pin comes out no problem, and also does not go back into the mod. The only thing is, it is rather loose.

So, my question is, is it OK to use the royal hunter, putting the RDA on first, then inserting the battery, and screwing in the fire switch-or is it best not to use the Royal hunter due to the screw easily being turned? I do not want a short to occur.

I ask this before using the Royal hunter, as I do not want to have any accidents, and advice would be appreciated, plus some RDA's that are good for hybrid style mods.

Thanks all, Conan.

If you are uncomfortable with the pin, dont risk it.

i screw the hybrid connector onto the atty, check the protrusion of the pin and then screw the entire thing on the mod.

The fact it protrudes enough is your guide, it will not spin.

i use Dark Horses and Velocities mostly, but it's not difficult to be safe.

T

The OP has a SMPL.
It doesnt have a removable top cap.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Its not a hybrid.
A SMPL is a direct to battery mod.
Hybrids dont have 510 THREADS.




If you are uncomfortable with the pin, dont risk it.



The OP has a SMPL.
It doesnt have a removable top cap.

OK, my bad, I was always lead to believe a hybrid WAS a direct to battery mod.

EDIT: I looked, and see that a hybrids RDA actually connects to the mod via threads on the side of the atty, I never realised this, I thought they was all hybrids, learn a new thing everyday.

I think you are right about feeling uncomfortable, I will probably use some O-rings as suggested by user @VHRB2014.

If the 510 is adjustable and you have to screw it out to get it long enough to your liking, I put a o-ring or washer on it so that it does`nt get screwed/jiggled back in during use. I got some very tiny 3mm washers from Fatdaddy vapes that works on some, for some a o-ring works OK, and on some I wind up making a brand new insulator with delrin stock also purchased from Fatdaddy. Then I check with a eye lope and make sure it`s centered in the insulator while tight, lastly I put it on a ohm meter to make sure none of these adjustments has had a negative affect.

I like about this much stick out to feel good about it.
View attachment 559775

BOL.

Thanks for the photo on how much you leave yourself-many of my RDA's already have this amount sticking out, I am using slightly more-I was under the impression more is better as it is less likely to short, but it means I can use a lot more of my RDA's on the SMPL if this is OK .

 

[WharfRat1976]

Its not a hybrid.
A SMPL is a direct to battery mod.
Hybrids dont have 510 THREADS.

It's a hybrid. It's a hybrid of a hybrid by any other name.

Semantics, shmantics, potato potAto, tomato, tomAto.

Call it whatever you want.

 

[VHRB2014]

I agree Rat, the term hybrid has led to more confusion than an Obama appointee, LOL.

The term suggests there is a mixture of two separate things, makers, or manufactures. But in the way its being used, perhaps the term "proprietary" is more appropriate.

In my simple mind, DTB is DTB is DTB. Some attz are proprietary, some are interchangeable due to the use of a standardized 510 connection.

Oh well. No one likes to squabble over terms more then humans, LOL.

 

[Bad Ninja]

It's a hybrid. It's a hybrid of a hybrid by any other name.

Semantics, shmantics, potato potAto, tomato, tomAto.

Call it whatever you want.

No, its not a hybrid.
Its not semantics.

This is how new vapers get hurt.
Hybrids are the safest of mechanicals.
You cannot attach the wrong atomizer to a hybrid.
Direct to battery mods are more dangerous to new vaper as they require an atty with an extended positive connection.
Confusing the two is dangerous and is a sign more education may be needed ro safwly use mechanical mods.

Know your gear. Vape safe.

 

[VHRB2014]

Actually I would bet more new vapers are injured by batterys with a low amp CDR. Just because its a hybrid or even dtb, does`nt mean the wrong battery will still work.

Ya, they need an electricity for dummy's class in high school now. It should be basic public safety.

 

[Frocket]

Insufficient battery knowledge is probably the cause of most of the mishaps, IMO.

Not all rechargeable lithium 18650s use the same chemistry. The most common are IMR, NMC, INR, and ICR. To complicate things, those are just short names for the battery chemistry, and other terms are sometimes used for the same types - for example, IMR is also known as LiMn2O4, LMO, or Li-manganese.

IMR batteries are probably the safest. They can support high discharge rates (amps) without generating significant heat or degrading. Also, if they do fail, they tend to bubble and steam a bit - no flames, no explosions. However, they're low capacity, so don't last very long.

INR, also called hybrid, tweak the IMR chemistry with some nickel. Though not quite as "safe" as IMR, they can support reasonably high discharge rates (20-30A) without failing. If these fail, they'll vent a bit more vigorously than IMR, but they don't blow up. INR are the most common for vaping, and include Samsung 25R, LGs, and Sony VTC series.

Then, there's ICR, also known as LCO or Li-Cobalt. They're cheap, they have really high capacity, and their discharge rate is acceptable for some low-drain applications, if using safety circuits/fuses. These should never, ever be used for vaping. Operating an ICR anywhere near your face, particularly encased in a metal tube, is flat out stupid. When they fail, they fail big - they shoot flames like a rocket and explode.

TL;DR: ICR batteries are really bad. Unfortunately, they're also cheap, and can be re-wrapped to look like other batteries. I would bet that 90% of the flaming rocket exploding eye-popping bone-breaking mech mod failures happen because someone used an ICR in a mech, either because they didn't know the risk or someone rewrapped an ICR and sold it as something else.

As long as you're using an IMR or INR (from a reputable vendor), and have somewhere for gases to vent, it's unlikely you'll cause any significant damage if you short the battery. I've never shorted or vented a battery, but I know that if my battery fails, I'm probably not gonna end up in the hospital.

BOOM!