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oooh, you don't happen to have a link handy do you? I can imagine that "resistor" in the modders section will turn up about a million hits
I don't want to have to solder anything. I guess I was kind of hoping for some sort of disk to drop in under the spring. Like a nickel or something. or "go to Orchard Supply and buy a washer made out of [this]". probably being overly optimistic on that...
[edit] even though I'm old and fat I managed to hike over to the modder's forum and posted there.
We'll see.
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yes I believe it does, because I find that adding this to my silver bullet gives me a better vape for some reason it seems like it does change the resistance but im not sure by how much exactly
would adding 2 opposite adapters lower the res ? if you have 510 battery, can you add 510 to 901 adapter and 901 to 510 adapter on top of it and then put the atty
Now this is a great idea if the adapters have any measurable resistance (we don't want to lower the resistance, we want to increase it). Chad? any measurements on the adapters?
BB -> 510/901 -> 901/510 -> 510/901 -> 901atty
Lol, from the modders forum I got a pointer to the thread on making a resistor wafer. Liquid electrical tape mixed with powdered graphite. But they were getting something with significant resistance and said that adding too much graphite made the resulting wafer too brittle. I might try that as plan B.
Never took a reading on them, LOL sorry I don't make um, did not see the need. They are nickel plated brass, so the resistance is just about nil. A stainless nut could do the job I would think
Dang it... it appears that the 510/901 adapter adds little, if any resistance. At best it looks like it could be 0.05 ohms. Have to wait until I can get my Fluke on it but this RS meter usually does ok. (haha, it just occured to me that I can use the atomizer to complete the circuit for measuring).
Stainless washers are next...
Stainless washers are next...
A stainless washer looks to be about perfect. Somewhere between 1 and 0.5 ohms.
I was really stoked until... mechanical difficulties. There is that small problem of the side of the tube. How to keep the spring away from the side of the tube. If you put the washer under the spring then the base of the spring will contact the side of the tube and bypass the washer. If you put the washer on the bottom of the battery then the washer could contact the side of the tube and bypass the spring. doh
Now I think I know why you said "stainless nut" instead of washer? I can't weld anything to the battery because they have to fit into the charger. what to do, what to do.
I was really stoked until... mechanical difficulties. There is that small problem of the side of the tube. How to keep the spring away from the side of the tube. If you put the washer under the spring then the base of the spring will contact the side of the tube and bypass the washer. If you put the washer on the bottom of the battery then the washer could contact the side of the tube and bypass the spring. doh
Now I think I know why you said "stainless nut" instead of washer? I can't weld anything to the battery because they have to fit into the charger. what to do, what to do.
Looks like you would need to replace the spring itself with a higher res type. Do you have the "hot spring" or the older type?
Or, if you are able to get a stainless disc, { a washer without the hole}, then you put it on the bottom of the battery instead of under the spring.
No need to weld it or glue it in any way if its the right size. The spring's pressure will hold it there.
Or, if you are able to get a stainless disc, { a washer without the hole}, then you put it on the bottom of the battery instead of under the spring.
No need to weld it or glue it in any way if its the right size. The spring's pressure will hold it there.
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Even with the SS spring it would trip the circuit with the 510... Assuming that is what he wants to do.
The stainless spring
The shrink wrap on the bottom wraps over the edge so the disk would have to be smaller than that and if it moved to one side it wouldn't make contact.
That would be correct. I think what would do the trick is a stainless button top that would just fit over the existing button top. That would be self centering and being on top would be simple to just place on there before screwing on the bb top.
It would probably be really simple to make something like that on something like a ... cnc machine
I might try to hammer a stainless washer into shape maybe.
Haha, everybody is scared to move in case you get distracted from the Omegas again.
I'm still thinking about how I'm going to forge a dome shaped cap for a button top. Right now I'm figuring I can drill a divot in my anvil and get a really large punch. I'll make a blank by tac welding a washer onto a shaft so I can chuck it in a drill and turn it into a circular blank against a file. Put that over the divot and whack it with the punch ... poor man's cnc with only a hand drill and a hammer.
I'm still thinking about how I'm going to forge a dome shaped cap for a button top. Right now I'm figuring I can drill a divot in my anvil and get a really large punch. I'll make a blank by tac welding a washer onto a shaft so I can chuck it in a drill and turn it into a circular blank against a file. Put that over the divot and whack it with the punch ... poor man's cnc with only a hand drill and a hammer.
I'll buy one!
it failed... I'm bummed.
I even made one. Manufacturing went great. Got stainless finish washers (#4). Used a punch to flatten the centers. That left a hole which it turns out allows you to put it on a dremel mandril. Spinning it on a file didn't work so well but spinning it on 50 grit sand paper worked great. Cup down flat on the paper which had the result of decreasing the outer diameter while decreasing the depth of the "bowl". Ended up with a perfectly sized "cap" for my button top that makes contact and due to the cup won't move out of position like a flat disc would. Jammed it together and tried a 510 on it and it worked! but it was just a bit weaker than expected. So I put the ohm meter on the 510 and it was 4.5 ohm... doh. It just happened to be on it's way out. Tried another and it failed to light.
Seems that maybe stainless in those kinds of things isn't real consistent. Being a bit more careful it seemed like some points had 0.4 ohms resistance and right next to it 0 ohms? Anyway, when it's laying on the button top it doesn't work. Now I don't know what I'm going to do. The problems are getting worse.
I need 3.0 ohms or greater for my BB batteries.
My remaining 12 KR808D cartomizers are all 2.8 ohms or less.
I've been running into a few 901s that are less than 3 ohms.
I've been running into a number of very short lived 901s
The Tenergy's I got for my SB might have been bad or their voltage regulator circuit doesn't work so well when they're used in series or something. I RMA'd them and they simply refunded my money but didn't say why... I don't know whether to just try another set or not.
All my LR attys burned up (at 3.7v) and they didn't quite do it for me anyway.
I went to order another 3 boxes of KR808Ds hoping to get ones with 3 ohms or more and... there's no black ones. Not even green ones.
I might have to start doing my juice in a spoon with a lighter.
I did a quick search on conductivity of different metals. I think I need a titanium spring. I wonder how much it would cost to have someone make me a spring with a resistor in it.
Help Chad, I need a COLD spring.
I have some SS springs for the BB, to be exact like 200 or so sitting in the cabinet.
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