i thought the eleaf 50w will adjust to my head

[jollyme]

hey fellow vapers,
yet an other question.
I've just got the eleaf 50w and i've been watching reviews and apparently it should adjust/regulate to my head?
Not sure if i'm asking this right. lol

with this experiment im using my kanger protank mini 3 with a 1.5 ohm head it still goes to 50w and will not regulate or adjust. of course this creates a very strong burnt taste at 30w...i understand why just i thought it would regulate for that heads perfect heating.

thanks for helping me again,..
you fellow vapers always have good advise...

 

[djsvapour]

30w?

Turn your istick down to minimum and see what sort of vapor your get.

If it was me, I'd click it 3 times, switch it to volts and then dial up 3.0 volts.

The iStick itself won't stop burning a coil. I'd be surprised if you can go much above 4.0v with a mini Protank.

 

[Cloudmann]

The mod actually DID regulate and adjust to your head. The head just couldn't handle that much wattage. The istick 50 will push out up to 50 watts to anything screwed into it, so long as it's within its resistance range. That said, it'll also burn the crap out of any heads that can't handle the load. What you're thinking of is temperature control. No, the istick 50 doesn't do that. Not anywhere close to being in the price range for that particular feature.

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

hi Jolly. The 50W eleaf adjusts either volts or watts. You have to select one or the other, and the regulated mod sets the other one. Click 3 times to change to either watts or volts. I adjust mine by watts. I'd suggest setting it to at 7 watts, take a hit, and then up it to 8, etc. That way you won't burn a coil when looking for the best power to enjoy your vape. For instance, my iStick 50 , with a Nautilus Mini 1.8 coil when set at 8 watts, regulates to 3.8 volts. At 12 watts it regulates the volts to 4.7.

Start low and work your way up.

 

[jollyme]

djsvapour it did go above the 4.0 V?
as cloudmann seems to be saying the eleaf does not have temperature control.
so what im understanding i simply have to be careful and stay within the recommended wattage on my coil heads.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Jolly, just from what I have noticed and come to experience, is that, by far, people vape in the 9-20 watt range. There are a lot of people on this forum who are real hobbyists and so you will see people going much higher.

As was said, start at 8 watts or 3 volts and slowly raise it. For me, I like some flavors in the upper range for the warmth and some lower. That is just part of the hobby.

Enjoy your vaping. It is so much more enjoyable than boring cigs.

 

[NancyR]

djsvapour it did go above the 4.0 V?
as cloudmann seems to be saying the eleaf does not have temperature control.
so what im understanding i simply have to be careful and stay within the recommended wattage on my coil heads.

It adjusts the voltage to whatever wattage you have it set to according to the ohms of the head, so long as it does not surpass the max voltage of the chip, and no most devices do not have temp control and even the ones that does temp control at this stage only works with nickle wire which means you have to build it.

I also understand from those I know who use it, temp control devices seem to be picky as to the build and such, so it isn't something ready made heads would be able to do at this point, hopefully that changes soon.

Don't worry about what is recommended, as what is on their site for the wattage for the heads isn't a recommendation it is what wattage you would be getting if using a mech mod, which you aren't. Like anything in vaping adjust according to your personal taste, rather that be 7 watts or 50 it is your choice off what you like.

 

[Train2]

It's not temp control, and it's not automatically picking a power level for you.
What it WILL do, is send the right voltage when you tell it what wattage you want - that requires "adjusting to your coil".
Because 20 watts with a 1 ohm coil is different than 20 watts with a 2 ohm coil.
Make sense?

So start low watts, and turn it up until you're happy - then remember, "I like it at 23 watts" or whatever.
Then if you try with a different coil, or tank or whatever, you'll probably like THAT at 23 watts (or nearby) as well - regardless of what the resistance of that coil is.

Hope that helps!

 

[jseah]

It's not temp control, and it's not automatically picking a power level for you.
What it WILL do, is send the right voltage when you tell it what wattage you want - that requires "adjusting to your coil".
Because 20 watts with a 1 ohm coil is different than 20 watts with a 2 ohm coil.
Make sense?

So start low watts, and turn it up until you're happy - then remember, "I like it at 23 watts" or whatever.
Then if you try with a different coil, or tank or whatever, you'll probably like THAT at 23 watts (or nearby) as well - regardless of what the resistance of that coil is.

Hope that helps!

I think it is a lot simpler to think in terms of volts, and switch the iStick to voltage mode where you set the voltage and the iStick automatically sets the wattage based on the coil put into it. If you put a Subtank Mini with a 0.5 ohm coil on it and vape it at 23 watts, and like it, but then put in a Kanger EVOD tank with a 3 ohm coil into it, you will get a burnt vape. 23 watts with a 0.5 ohm coil is 3.4 volts while 23 watts with a 3 ohm coil is 8.3 volts.

 

[jseah]

I also understand from those I know who use it, temp control devices seem to be picky as to the build and such, so it isn't something ready made heads would be able to do at this point, hopefully that changes soon.

From the DNA40 Phil Busardo video, the guy from Evolv did mention that they would like to see the manufacturers come up with factory made nickel coils. That might be a while though since pure nickel coils would be bad to use in a mod without temperature control. That said, companies like Vapor Shark does sell Nautilus and Subtank OCC coils premade with nickel rather than kanthal.

 

[NancyR]

From the DNA40 Phil Busardo video, the guy from Evolv did mention that they would like to see the manufacturers come up with factory made nickel coils. That might be a while though since pure nickel coils would be bad to use in a mod without temperature control. That said, companies like Vapor Shark does sell Nautilus and Subtank OCC coils premade with nickel rather than kanthal.

ok thanks I didn't know anyone was doing premade ones with nickel at this time

 

[jseah]

ok thanks I didn't know anyone was doing premade ones with nickel at this time

Vapor Shark's prices aren't that bad. They're selling the Nautilus and Subtank OCC with nickel coils for around $18-19 for 5. I found another place online (I forget where now) where they also sell the Atlantis heads with nickel coils, but they want $9 for each head. That is a pure rip off.

 

[Thrasher]

Yea. I believe you mistook self adjusting for automatic adjusting

When in watts mode whatever wattage you set is what it willtry to give you by checking the resistance and adjusting the voltage

In volts mode it will do same thing but adjust the wattage

But you still have to set the desired amount of power it will then take it from there and adjust everything else accordingly

 

[jollyme]

yes my fellow vapers that is what i did, i miss took the self adjusting to literally. lol...
i understand now what the deal is by all your explanations.

thank you so much for helping

 

[g3n3r1c]

hmm, my thoughts went right to the spring loaded 510 connector being able to self adjust to the atty :\

 

[Liskrig]

It won't dial back down if you use an Atlantis (sub-ohm) vs a Kanger Tank (not sub-ohm). I've learned that the hard way :/ If I'm on my rebuildables, and then switch to a tank (when driving) I sometimes forget to turn the wattage back down and OW OW OW...

"Hell hath no fury like lungs full of burning cotton" - Liskrig

 

[GinnyTx]

I use that same set up not the 50w but the 30w (haven't gotten the 50 yeat..Ed got me a vapor flask so I have to wait) but
depending on the juice 5.0 volts is the most I can go on most of them..most more like 4.3 v (10watts) without getting a burnt taste

start low and work your way up to see what each juice's sweet spot is with your tank/coil configuration.

 

[jseah]

I use that same set up not the 50w but the 30w (haven't gotten the 50 yeat..Ed got me a vapor flask so I have to wait) but
depending on the juice 5.0 volts is the most I can go on most of them..most more like 4.3 v (10watts) without getting a burnt taste

start low and work your way up to see what each juice's sweet spot is with your tank/coil configuration.

Heck, with my Subtank running the 0.5 ohm coil, I'm running it at 3.5 v (17.5 watts). I vary between 3.5 and 4 volts. Any higher than 4 volts and the vape just gets too warm for me.

 

[Cloudmann]

Yup. Even at the 15-20 /watt range you need an atomizer head that can wick fast enough (ie large juice holes). Don't get hung up on the whole resistance (ohms) thing. You don't need to sub ohm to vape at high wattage. Certain tanks like the Nautilus Mini with the new bvc coils wick like a champ and CAN vape over 20 watts, even at 1.8 or 2.1 ohms. It's all in the coil and head design.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

Mods (Advanced Electronic Cigarettes) come in two basic types, unregulated and regulated. The iStick is a regulated mod.

On an unregulated mod the power from the battery is supplied directly to the atomizer (Coil, head, etc.). There is no way to control the output power of these devices. These devices will also get somewhat weaker as the battery drains and the voltage drops.

On a regulated device, like the iStick, an onboard computer controls the power supplied to atomizer. The power supplied to the atomizer is independent of the battery voltage. Regulated mods typically come in two types, variable voltage or variable wattage. Some regulated mods, like the iStick, can do both variable voltage and variable wattage. These two modes are mutually exclusive, meaning the mod is either in variable voltage or variable wattage mode, but it can NOT be in both modes at the same time.

In variable voltage mode the iStick will output whatever voltage you set. It won't care what the atomizer resistance is, it will just always supply that voltage.

In variable wattage mode you set the iStick to a certain wattage you prefer. The iStick will automatically detect the resistance of your atomizer and calculate the correct voltage to output based on this information. If you change atomizers the iStick will automatically readjust the voltage based on the new atomizer's resistance.

While the iStick is adjustable and somewhat automatic, it's still up to you to select a wattage or voltage suitable for the type of atomizer you're using. Different atomizers and coils (coil heads) are designed to handle different levels of power, so the best method is to start at the bottom of the suggested power range and slowly adjust the power up to achieve a satisfying vape.

Here is a general list of reasonable power ranges for different types of atomizers:

Clearomizer: 5-10 watts
Tank Atomizer: 7-20 watts
Subohm Tank Atomizer: 20-50 watts

These are just general ranges, it will vary depending on the design of the atomizer.

Hope this helps.