If it looks like a mech mod, acts like a mech mod, isnt it a mech mod?

[Human Exhaust]

Am I buying the wrong mech mod? I currently have a vanilla, rook, morpheus, and bought a k100 for [moderated] and giggles. I switched out the contacts on the k100 with copper contacts and I've noticed that all three hit about the same with a nimbus atty. I keep hearing people say things like, "this mech hits like a beast". I'm not noticing a difference. With the four mech mods I have, I have noticed that the throw on the k100 is pretty subpar compared to the rest. I would have to say that the morpheus has the best throw, followed by the vanilla if you screw the button all the way down, rook third, and k100 last.

So outside of hearing the 'sizzle' a split second faster due to the better throw, I'm not noticing any other difference in performance. I build my atty at about .4-.5 ohms and keep an eye on my battery to not let it go below 3.8v and don't ever pay much attention to wattage or amp draw. What am I missing or doing wrong? Or is a mech mod a mech mod?

 

[cowfood]

Well at the ohms you are vaping at, it becomes hard to tell.. The hit harder is all about current hitting the coils faster thus hitting temperature quicker. Again at those ohms, you are essentially hitting it no matter what you throw at it. You will start to notice a difference at about .8 ohms on up as the resistance will slow the heating process down, thus the current based on the mechs performance will come more into play.

-CF

 

[Human Exhaust]

Well at the ohms you are vaping at, it becomes hard to tell.. The hit harder is all about current hitting the coils faster thus hitting temperature quicker. Again at those ohms, you are essentially hitting it no matter what you throw at it. You will start to notice a difference at about .8 ohms on up as the resistance will slow the heating process down, thus the current based on the mechs performance will come more into play.

-CF

I'll have to build a 1ohm coil now for testing purposes. So basically you think that it all comes down to quality of contacts? So theoretically all copper contacts with the same diameter and finish should all perform the same. All silver contacts perform the same and gold, etc.

 

[cowfood]

Then again, if you grab an rda that is super tiny, you might feel your lips sizzle faster on one mech faster than another.. I suggest an octopus RDA for the lip sizzle at that ohm.

 

[cowfood]

No, Silver trumps Copper trumps brass etc.. Current flow is not your problem, it's that you are at such a low Ohm that you litterally can't tell the difference...

 

[cowfood]

The k100 is aluminum - Highly conductive.. It's next to silver, Ihybrid LE's and Pures are Alumn for that reason..

 

[440BB]

I think the performance differences are negligible once you are using the same materials. One thing about the K100 throw - if you use a button top battery with the button facing the switch, you can reduce the throw quite a bit.

 

[Ryedan]

Am I buying the wrong mech mod? I currently have a vanilla, rook, morpheus, and bought a k100 for [moderated] and giggles. I switched out the contacts on the k100 with copper contacts and I've noticed that all three hit about the same with a nimbus atty. I keep hearing people say things like, "this mech hits like a beast". I'm not noticing a difference. With the four mech mods I have, I have noticed that the throw on the k100 is pretty subpar compared to the rest. I would have to say that the morpheus has the best throw, followed by the vanilla if you screw the button all the way down, rook third, and k100 last.

When people say that, it's totally subjective and I don't pay any attention to it. Their opinion of how a beast hits might be different from mine. I have a K100 clone and a KTS GG clone. For me, if it vapes well, it's golden and I don't worry about it. If I want more power I change the coil. My setup is the way I want it right now, so if I got more power, I would have to change the coil to compensate.

So outside of hearing the 'sizzle' a split second faster due to the better throw, I'm not noticing any other difference in performance. I build my atty at about .4-.5 ohms and keep an eye on my battery to not let it go below 3.8v and don't ever pay much attention to wattage or amp draw. What am I missing or doing wrong? Or is a mech mod a mech mod?

IMO, you're doing everything right. If I wanted to see how my mods performed for voltage drop I would check the voltage across the coil under load with the same atty and the same battery compared to unloaded voltage. So move the same atty and the same battery between mods. This would give me a comparison of the voltage drop between the devices because the only change would be the devices. This will not be the mod voltage drops. I've not done this, but I suspect you would not find much difference between your mods. If you try it, please let us know what you find.

ETA: Just wanted to mention that at 0.4 ohms you are drawing 10 A at 4.0 V. If you are using a 10 A battery you are close to the max continuous discharge rate.

 

[BardicDruid]

I build my atty at about .4-.5 ohms and keep an eye on my battery to not let it go below 3.8v

You don't let your battery go below 3.8V??? An AW IMR18650 has a min voltage of 2.5V, Panasonic CGR18650 & NCR18650 have a min voltage of 2.6V. I usually run mine down to 3 to 3.2V, doesn't hurt them a bit.

don't ever pay much attention to wattage or amp draw

Amp draw is what causes thermal runaways and catastrophic events, a .5ohm coil at 3.7V is drawing 7.5A, you need to make sure your battery can handle it.

 

[Thrasher]

I think the performance differences are negligible once you are using the same materials. One thing about the K100 throw - if you use a button top battery with the button facing the switch, you can reduce the throw quite a bit.

bad bad bad advice. when you turn the body of the mod into a positive circuit, thermal runaway cannot be stopped should the battery ground out or the casing rips somehow. you should never do this.

 

[Ryedan]

You don't let your battery go below 3.8V??? An AW IMR18650 has a min voltage of 2.5V, Panasonic CGR18650 & NCR18650 have a min voltage of 2.6V. I usually run mine down to 3 to 3.2V, doesn't hurt them a bit.

The issue is that vape becomes anemic below about 3.8 V. I pull mine at 3.7 and try not to go below 3.6. That works very well for my setup. I believe 3.6 is about 60% - 70% discharged. Have a look at what depth of discharge does to the lifespan of the battery here in table 2.

 

[Ryedan]

bad bad bad advice. when you turn the body of the mod into a positive circuit, thermal runaway cannot be stopped should the battery ground out or the casing rips somehow. you should never do this.

I don't understand why this so Thrasher. Can you explain a bit more please.

As far as I can see, the only thing that has changed is the polarity and the battery orientation. Once the battery shorts in either configuration with a battery susceptible to thermal runaway, you have to physically stop the short to avoid it.

 

[Mitey F]

A mechanical is a mechanical. Besides aesthetics and the functionality of the button (almost all preference), they're pretty much all the same. Some people would rather spend $20 to get something that works well for a good price, some would rather spend $400 to say they have a $400 mod.

 

[Thrasher]

I don't understand why this so Thrasher. Can you explain a bit more please.

As far as I can see, the only thing that has changed is the polarity and the battery orientation. Once the battery shorts in either configuration with a battery susceptible to thermal runaway, you have to physically stop the short to avoid it.

i cannot find the post so i will do my best to rehash this.


the casing of the battery is almost always negative or ground when inserted into the mod the correct way the mod also becomes ground and really the only way for a battery to melt down is for the firing pin to get stuck. even with a bad/ shorted coil unless you continuously hold the button there is no continuity in the battery. say the battery label was ripped and you didnt notice, still not a problem as the battery is negative and so is the mod casing.


now you turn the battery upside down and cause the mod body to become a positive voltage with a negative battery casing inside. I know the chance is slim but say you used that same ripped battery or a spring went off half cocked and tore into the battery label or.........


now you have a positive mod body with a neg ground battery casing touching somewhere making a complete circuit with no way to turn it off. meaning even if you stop pressing the firing pin it wont stop the battery from going into thermal meltdown.

there is no way when the mod body gets to 200+ degrees in less then a second you will be able to unscrew anything to get the battery out, it will instantly be too hot to hold and now you have a tube in your living room venting gas and burning things.

If you notice there are no mods built this way, and that is for a good reason. it is an engineering rule of thumb when using batteries to never make the case or body the positive. always always make the casing negative.

but no one is stopping anyone else from running that risk if they choose too.

 

[Richard75]

A mechanical is a mechanical. Besides aesthetics and the functionality of the button (almost all preference), they're pretty much all the same. Some people would rather spend $20 to get something that works well for a good price, some would rather spend $400 to say they have a $400 mod.

I disagree. I didn't really pay attention to voltage drop until I got a mod with low voltage drop. And this isn't just about cheap vs. expensive, I've got a stainless steel Galileo that I absolutely adore (and for how well it's made, and a price tag of 130 Euros, I would consider it fairly high end), but a coil that glows nicely on my Galileo will blind me on my Titan (using the same battery!), so much so that I need to raise the ohms on a genesis for use with my Titan because it can't wick fast enough. Never believe someone when they tell you that all tube mods are the same, because they most definitely are not.

 

[ubergeek922]

<snip>
the casing of the battery is almost always negative or ground when inserted into the mod the correct way the mod also becomes ground and really the only way for a battery to melt down is for the firing pin to get stuck. even with a bad/ shorted coil unless you continuously hold the button there is no continuity in the battery. say the battery label was ripped and you didnt notice, still not a problem as the battery is negative and so is the mod casing.
<snip>

I believe this is incorrect. When you place a battery into a bottom button mech, it is typically positive side up, with the pos end touching the post. This post is now +, which touches the center post of your atty. The positive now travels through the coil and down the body to the switch. The switch is positive, and when depressed, completed the connection to the negative end of the battery. Take a moment to really look at your mod and you'll see the path is unbroken from the + end of the battery to the switch.

 

[Thrasher]

i do not know bottom fire mechanicals - with this exception this set up is still not the norm. look at any VV mod there is permanent contact from a spring against the neg side of the battery making the mod negative, the only positive connection is the 510 pin.
same goes for my poldiac and roller the battery sits on a spring making the body negative at all times.

bottom firing mechanicals are taking a step out from normal design pattern for sure , but making the body negative is a standard design practice, with your example for most bottom firing mods it may actually make no difference.

 

[ubergeek922]

i do not know bottom fire mechanicals - with this exception this set up is still not the norm. look at any VV mod there is permanent contact from a spring against the neg side of the battery making the mod negative, the only positive connection is the 510 pin.
same goes for my poldiac and roller the battery sits on a spring making the body negative at all times.

bottom firing mechanicals are taking a step out from normal design pattern for sure , but making the body negative is a standard design practice, with your example for most bottom firing mods it may actually make no difference.

Agreed. VV and top button devices are making the connection between the positive end and the 510 center post. The bottom buttons make the connection at the negative end. Below is the switch for the K100 which the OP has. The plastic washer insulates the negative end, and when the plunger is depressed it goes up through the center and makes contact, completing the circuit.


The chi you clone is a great example of why i think its wrong to go positive up. The switch assembly is not insulated, so if using something like a CGR18650CH, which has an uninsulated negative end, the body will make contact with the uninsulated end of the battery causing it to fire non-stop. These must be insulated or put in "backwards" (positive down).

 

[st0nedpenguin]

A mechanical is a mechanical. Besides aesthetics and the functionality of the button (almost all preference), they're pretty much all the same. Some people would rather spend $20 to get something that works well for a good price, some would rather spend $400 to say they have a $400 mod.

There's a pretty obvious difference between a device putting out 3.5v under load and one putting out 4v under load, with the same battery.

Clearly a mechanical isn't a mechanical.

 

[Curmudgeon]

There's a pretty obvious difference between a device putting out 3.5v under load and one putting out 4v under load, with the same battery.

Clearly a mechanical isn't a mechanical.

I agree. It's really no different than setting a vv device to 3.5v then to 4.0v. There is a difference.