Ignis Mods – Handmade Wooden Box Mods

[Ratman]

Cool. Thanks for the info.

 

[*~Peace~*]

Good morning all. Trying to come up with a picture to enter in the contest today. I have seen so much pretty stuff I am having a hard time now picking one plus I want to post something that hasn't been posted yet.

 

[AmberB]

its ok to pick something thats already been posted. Ultimately I am using this to judge what wood to buy, and the ones that get posted most often get bought!!!

 

[AmberB]

Cool. Thanks for the info.

Sure thing! Hopefully the husband will install the new drip well tonight. We got distracted last night. Once thats in I will do a full demonstrative video to show how everything in this baby works!

 

[Col. Gaunt]

The needle feed system leaks. You have to turn your PV upside down and basically drip from the bottom. If you flood, your juice flows back down through the hole the needle sits in because it can't be sealed. With the sealed tube system it feeds up right and no leaks! [/QUOTE]

I think I have decided on the bigger well. I think having more diameter for the juice at the bottom will allow for better feeding when you suck it in. The smaller well would push it up and you would have less control over how much you sucked in.



The needle system was one of the first methods used to feed an atty in a bottom feeder mod. An example of this was the wetbox. This system was basically not too practical because the bottom of the battery connection for the atty had to be sealed with epoxy or some similar material to keep it from leaking and the needle slid into the tiny hole.

2 more popular feeding systems which are used today include the reverse sealed metal tube system as Amber described where a metal tube, ideally made from stainless steel, is soldered to the hole in the bottom of the battery connection and connected to the juice bottle via tubing. I have seen several methods used to transport the juice from the bottle to the tubing.

Finally, there is the external tube method, where a piece of metal tubing is soldered to the top of the hole and extends below the battery connection where a tube leads it to the juice bottle. The problem with this system is that even though it is one of the best feeding systems because it injects the juice farthest into the atomizer, many atomizers do not have sufficiently large enough holes to accommodate the metal tube.

Also, if I may make a suggestion regarding the drip well choice, I believe that a wide drip well is fine but not a tall one. To make your mod more versatile leave enough room for people to put a tank on the mod. Why put a tank on a bottom fed mod? To take advantage of the electronics inside, that's why. What about the ability to test the mod for voltage output and output with load? I think that many people have the testers that mad vapes sells which are the rectangular black or white boxes, you would have to use 510 to 510 connecters to make the battery connection tall enough or purchase another battery tester which is thinner to fit into a deep drip well. Remember, using 510 to 510 connectors makes the mod lose conductivity.

 

[Ratman]

Excellent breakdown and brilliant point about the height of the well. Not being able to stick a tank on it would be a huge turn off to a lot of users.

 

[Col. Gaunt]

Excellent breakdown and brilliant point about the height of the well. Not being able to stick a tank on it would be a huge turn off to a lot of users.

Thank you ratman.

 

[AmberB]

The needle feed system leaks. You have to turn your PV upside down and basically drip from the bottom. If you flood, your juice flows back down through the hole the needle sits in because it can't be sealed. With the sealed tube system it feeds up right and no leaks!

I think I have decided on the bigger well. I think having more diameter for the juice at the bottom will allow for better feeding when you suck it in. The smaller well would push it up and you would have less control over how much you sucked in.



The needle system was one of the first methods used to feed an atty in a bottom feeder mod. An example of this was the wetbox. This system was basically not too practical because the bottom of the battery connection for the atty had to be sealed with epoxy or some similar material to keep it from leaking and the needle slid into the tiny hole.

2 more popular feeding systems which are used today include the reverse sealed metal tube system as Amber described where a metal tube, ideally made from stainless steel, is soldered to the hole in the bottom of the battery connection and connected to the juice bottle via tubing. I have seen several methods used to transport the juice from the bottle to the tubing.

Finally, there is the external tube method, where a piece of metal tubing is soldered to the top of the hole and extends below the battery connection where a tube leads it to the juice bottle. The problem with this system is that even though it is one of the best feeding systems because it injects the juice farthest into the atomizer, many atomizers do not have sufficiently large enough holes to accommodate the metal tube.

Also, if I may make a suggestion regarding the drip well choice, I believe that a wide drip well is fine but not a tall one. To make your mod more versatile leave enough room for people to put a tank on the mod. Why put a tank on a bottom fed mod? To take advantage of the electronics inside, that's why. What about the ability to test the mod for voltage output and output with load? I think that many people have the testers that mad vapes sells which are the rectangular black or white boxes, you would have to use 510 to 510 connecters to make the battery connection tall enough or purchase another battery tester which is thinner to fit into a deep drip well. Remember, using 510 to 510 connectors makes the mod lose conductivity.

Good points on all fronts! I did think about the tank-ability and decided that to properly set up the feed system for the feeder versions, the only way is to simply have another tank-able non feeder model. I currently have a wide but short well on the prototype that allows for all of those things, but I will tell you I over flow it constantly. I use a 510 to 510 connector for my inline voltage tester and it works ok. I wouldn't recommend it for a tank however.

It wouldn't be a problem for me to make some with a deep well and some will a short well though. I can't offer that option at checkout because it would put too much delay between the time people buy and the time they receive, but I can pre make some that way if people would buy them. Im just not sure what ration of shallow to deep I should do?

 

[Col. Gaunt]

May I please see a picture of the current drip well.

 

[AmberB]

It's flush. The feed system is sealed from the bottom of the connector through the bottle. Im no good with needle feed systems! And if I don't like it, I ain't selling it!

Current here!

 

[Col. Gaunt]

In post 124 where you have the picture of that drip well and the other 2 taller units, I would suggest using the wider one on the right and cutting it down by at least 1/4 to possibly 1/2 of its former height.

 

[Col. Gaunt]

Oh, and I am sure that you know but make sure that the 4 troughs on the atty connect are flush with the drip well, in the picture you posted it seems that there was way too much e-liquid still sitting on the outside of the atty connection and not going into the troughs.

 

[AmberB]

In post 124 where you have the picture of that drip well and the other 2 taller units, I would suggest using the wider one on the right and cutting it down by at least 1/4 to possibly 1/2 of its former height.

I thought about that too. Not sure what equipment I would need to do it well though? My scroll saw won't cut through that and no way I'm going to get it even with a hack saw! LOL!

 

[AmberB]

Oh, and I am sure that you know but make sure that the 4 troughs on the atty connect are flush with the drip well, in the picture you posted it seems that there was way too much e-liquid still sitting on the outside of the atty connection and not going into the troughs.

That was something I thought pretty thoroughly about before this mod ever started. There's lots of juice there because it was in use and I had just got done giving it a good flooding when I needed to take the pic. LOL! Its pretty flush. The hole it just big enough to but up to the small lip at the troughs. I havent had any trouble sucking up every last drop from it, and I dont have to suck so hard I think I'm going to start losing fillings either. LOL!

 

[HollieH]

Congrats on your new venture, Amber. Can't wait to see your mods.

 

[Col. Gaunt]

Got an Idea for you from an ecf post, using the drip well that you have now, use a metal tool like the .... end of a hole punch, or anything that is round and slightly bigger then the diameter of the hole that you have now. Place this object in the dead center of the current drip well and give it a smack with a hammer. Since it is brass, you should not have to hit it too hard and the result should leave you with a slightly deeper well and flat bottom surface for the atty connection.

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac178/MVGUY/6e7fb885.jpg

 

[rtrain99]

Congrats Amber. Looking forward to the final production model.

 

[Ratman]

I think you are definitely on the right track with the larger drip well. Good looks and material and diameter. If you can just find a shorter version, you are golden. I think I understand what you are saying about offering different versions but either way a customer goes, that imposes a limitation on them and no one likes to give up something when they see they can have it on something else. If you can find the right size where you don't have to modify it and can therefore make it the standard offering, you take away the difficult choice and the risk of losing potential buyers over it.

Also if I understand what you are saying about having premades with both options, you lose some of the custom orders. It's a rock and a hard place for sure. If a shorter cup exists, it would be worth the effort of finding. If it doesn't, brass is fairly soft so perhaps a belt sander with a grinding belt and a jig setup would allow that 3/16" to be consistently and fairly easily ground off the top off the cup providing the height you need. Just an idea.

 

[Col. Gaunt]

I think you are definitely on the right track with the larger drip well. Good looks and material and diameter. If you can just find a shorter version, you are golden. I think I understand what you are saying about offering different versions but either way a customer goes, that imposes a limitation on them and no one likes to give up something when they see they can have it on something else. If you can find the right size where you don't have to modify it and can therefore make it the standard offering, you take away the difficult choice and the risk of losing potential buyers over it.

Also if I understand what you are saying about having premades with both options, you lose some of the custom orders. It's a rock and a hard place for sure. If a shorter cup exists, it would be worth the effort of finding. If it doesn't, brass is fairly soft so perhaps a belt sander with a grinding belt and a jig setup would allow that 3/16" to be consistently and fairly easily ground off the top off the cup providing the height you need. Just an idea.

I agree with ratman but I also see your point as well amber. In order for a tank to fit on your bottom feeder you would have to completely lose the drip well. Hmmm, perhaps it would be possible to have your cake and eat it too by having a removable drip well.

If you were to countersink the drip well into the wood and use the stamping method that I suggested, there might be enough tension in the brass drip well so that it could be pulled out with a fingernail or small screwdriver and then later, pressed back in.

What do you think?

Or hey, if you used a stainless steel drip well you could use small earth magnet to hold it in.

 

[*~Peace~*]

I don't plan on putting a tank on my bottom feeder so I want a big well myself. I like to drown my HH 357's.