increasing the battery life on my iPV2
- Thread starter FatherTime
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
It doesn't work that way. Yes, the current will go down if you raise the resistance and the voltage, but only the output current, not the input current(from the battery).
At, say 50w, you will pull the same current(amps) from the battery with a 1ohm coil as with a 2ohm coil.
Now, there could be minor differences in battery usage with different coil builds, but those are very minor and dependant on how efficient the circuitry is at different currents.
At, say 50w, you will pull the same current(amps) from the battery with a 1ohm coil as with a 2ohm coil.
Now, there could be minor differences in battery usage with different coil builds, but those are very minor and dependant on how efficient the circuitry is at different currents.
so are you saying it doesnt matter if i have a .5 ohm build or a 2 ohm build?
Hmmmm. I beg to differ:
Amperage or current draw is what drains a battery. This is what defines the work of the battery.
Resistance is how freely electrons flow through a wire. If you increase the resistance of the coil then less electricity is allowed to flow through the coil, and less work is demanded from the battery.
If you know two values (ie wattage and resistance) you can easily determine the amperage (current) and voltage (potential power) using a formula or calculator.
Assuming the wattage (heat value applied to the coil) is a fixed value, lower resistance coils fired with a proportional voltage value will draw more amps from the battery. Examples using an Ohm's Law calculator:
This is why high amp batteries are a must have for sub-ohm coils. The lower in resistance the coil, the higher the amp draw of the battery, the higher the drain on the battery life. Sub-ohm vapers go through batteries much faster than those who use standard resistance coils (1.8 - 2.5 ohm). A high resistance coil (3.0 ohm) would draw even less current from the battery.
Sub-ohm current draw with a 4.2 volt battery in a mechanical mod:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
Current draw from a regulated DNA mod @30 watts:
Ohm's Law for Dummies
Amperage or current draw is what drains a battery. This is what defines the work of the battery.
Resistance is how freely electrons flow through a wire. If you increase the resistance of the coil then less electricity is allowed to flow through the coil, and less work is demanded from the battery.
If you know two values (ie wattage and resistance) you can easily determine the amperage (current) and voltage (potential power) using a formula or calculator.
Assuming the wattage (heat value applied to the coil) is a fixed value, lower resistance coils fired with a proportional voltage value will draw more amps from the battery. Examples using an Ohm's Law calculator:
- 0.5 ohm coil at 10 watts will draw 4.5 amps (current) from a battery using 2.2 volts.
- 1.5 ohm coil at 10 watts will draw 2.6 amps (current) from a battery using 3.8 volts.
This is why high amp batteries are a must have for sub-ohm coils. The lower in resistance the coil, the higher the amp draw of the battery, the higher the drain on the battery life. Sub-ohm vapers go through batteries much faster than those who use standard resistance coils (1.8 - 2.5 ohm). A high resistance coil (3.0 ohm) would draw even less current from the battery.
- 3.0 ohm coil at 10 watts will draw 1.8 amps (current) from a battery using 5.5 volts.
Sub-ohm current draw with a 4.2 volt battery in a mechanical mod:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
Current draw from a regulated DNA mod @30 watts:
- 0.5 ohm coil at 30 watts will draw 7.7 amps
- 1.5 ohm coil at 30 watts will draw 4.5 amps
- 3.0 ohm coil at 30 watts will draw 3.2 amps
Ohm's Law for Dummies
Last edited:
thats what i thought! because arent the amps the actual energy? watts gauge how much power youre getting to the coil but the amps measures how much energy is actually coming out of the battery if im not mistaken. going from mechanical mods to regulated...all i have is 24 and 26 gauge kanthal. gonna try some 28 gplat on my ipv2. maybe were wrong and it doesnt matter. ill try a .2 or .3 ohm coil all day and then a 2 plus ohm coil all day and report
alright ive got a .32 ohm build in and a fresh battery. lets see how goes. .32 on a fresh battery on a mech would push about 55 watts so this is pretty close. ill be using 50 watts all day for both builds.
Baditude is absolutely right! I own several powerful box mods, and you most definitely get better battery life from higher ohms and lower amps. You want to use the ohms to your advantage by raising the resistance to achieve the same watts with a lower amp draw. Your batteries will last MUCH longer as a result and you'll find superb flavor with the increase in surface area, go put those extra volts to good use!
Last edited:
THE RESULTS ARE IN! ran a mini experiment last couple of days to test this.
first day i ran a .32 ohm coil at 50 watts. on the first fresh battery i chain vaped like crazy and the battery was completely dead (3.4v) at 1 hour 15 minutes. i continues to use through the day and some of the next and the longest the battery lasted was about 3 hours. keep in mind i vape a lot and both days i had off from work so i could chain vape for hours if i wanted. on average id say at .32 ohms at 50 watts (about 3.9 amps) the battery lasted 2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes.
second day i tried running a 2.2 ohm coil but i didnt think about the voltage cutoff and realized the highest resistance i could run at 50w was about 1.4 ohms. tried building at 1.4 but got 1.14 which at 50w is about 6.6 amps. as i did with the first build i chain vape like crazy with the first battery. i could not continue to chain vape until the battery died because i thought my head would split open lol. but id say if i could have it would have gone about 2 hours and 15 minutes. i took a couple of breaks and if im not mistaken thats what it would come to. now on average and not serious chain vape mode i would say the battery lasts 3 to 3 and a half hours.
in conclusion to this mini experiment, vaping on a regulated device at a higher resistance WILL give you a significantly longer battery life. not surprised by this, but i hope this answers questions and confirms some theories. mathematically it made sense and thought it put it to the test! fun stuff.
now while were here lets talk about vape quality...at .32 ohms the coil heated up very quickly and gave a real hot vape at the push of the button. i would say i got more vapor out of the .32 build. the 1.14 build took a second to heat up but it got just as hot. it just took longer, allowed for a longer draw. i got slightly less vapor production surprisingly. i thought id get more with more surface area. but i probably got twice the flavor on this build. i guess thats where the surface area came into play in this experiment. they were both great vapes and i prefer the 1.14 not only because of battery life but because i like to take 5 second hits. with this device (ipv2) my sweet spot is around .90 ohms. i get decent battery life for 50 watts and the prefect vape.
this obviously wasnt a perfectly controlled experiment in a 100% scientific method ruled environment but i think you get it, right?
first day i ran a .32 ohm coil at 50 watts. on the first fresh battery i chain vaped like crazy and the battery was completely dead (3.4v) at 1 hour 15 minutes. i continues to use through the day and some of the next and the longest the battery lasted was about 3 hours. keep in mind i vape a lot and both days i had off from work so i could chain vape for hours if i wanted. on average id say at .32 ohms at 50 watts (about 3.9 amps) the battery lasted 2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes.
second day i tried running a 2.2 ohm coil but i didnt think about the voltage cutoff and realized the highest resistance i could run at 50w was about 1.4 ohms. tried building at 1.4 but got 1.14 which at 50w is about 6.6 amps. as i did with the first build i chain vape like crazy with the first battery. i could not continue to chain vape until the battery died because i thought my head would split open lol. but id say if i could have it would have gone about 2 hours and 15 minutes. i took a couple of breaks and if im not mistaken thats what it would come to. now on average and not serious chain vape mode i would say the battery lasts 3 to 3 and a half hours.
in conclusion to this mini experiment, vaping on a regulated device at a higher resistance WILL give you a significantly longer battery life. not surprised by this, but i hope this answers questions and confirms some theories. mathematically it made sense and thought it put it to the test! fun stuff.
now while were here lets talk about vape quality...at .32 ohms the coil heated up very quickly and gave a real hot vape at the push of the button. i would say i got more vapor out of the .32 build. the 1.14 build took a second to heat up but it got just as hot. it just took longer, allowed for a longer draw. i got slightly less vapor production surprisingly. i thought id get more with more surface area. but i probably got twice the flavor on this build. i guess thats where the surface area came into play in this experiment. they were both great vapes and i prefer the 1.14 not only because of battery life but because i like to take 5 second hits. with this device (ipv2) my sweet spot is around .90 ohms. i get decent battery life for 50 watts and the prefect vape.
this obviously wasnt a perfectly controlled experiment in a 100% scientific method ruled environment but i think you get it, right?
So....regardless of the charge that is on the battery...a regulated chip will pull those current amounts for those power settings from start to finish?
yes it is supposed to. my ipv2 hits the same until its at about 10% battery
The output amperage of the battery is different than the input amperage.
You can forget about Ohms, because at say 50W and 3.8v on the battery you will always draw the same from the battery, whether it is a 2ohm or 0.2 ohm coil. Only the output amperage will be different. The voltage of your battery doesn't increase if you increase the resistance of your build.
To put it in a different way, your logic makes it OK to use a 10amp rated battery at 80w@8.08V with a 0.82ohm build.
Problem with this is it's only half the picture. This is only the output side of the regulator. On the input side, the power comes from the battery and the battery cannot change voltage, other than its discharge curve. So on the input side, 50w is 50w and will mean the same amperage drawn from the battery regardless of the load on the output side.
The differences people see in runtimes based on atomizer resistance are related to 1) differences in converter efficiency at different output voltages and 2) difference in atomizer performance with different coil/wick packages.
Here's rader's concise post on the topic from 2012: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/rader2146/3500-calculating-battery-drain-current.html
Last edited:
I guess on regulated devices it would be different from a mech. That makes sense.
It is and it isn't, the principle involved (ohm's law) is obviously the same, the difference is the conversion of power from one voltage to another. The regulator presents to the battery effectively as a very low impedance load.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
