gormly I hope you dont get mad, im not good at this but just to give an idea of how good this thing is
Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank
- Thread starter gormly
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- ecigexpress provari vamo vapor pro
- Status
UPDATE: I have been getting kind of harsh hits off the Griffin so, I thought I would open up the breather hole just a little bit more; thinking this will either help...or I'll be posting again & asking Eric if there were any plans to sell just the tops 
. Anyways, I went out into the garage and chucked up a 1/16" drill bit and reemed it out...
I rinsed out the shavings & screwed it back on and took a toke...sweet baby jesus!
It ROCKS!!
ETA: It's still just a little harsh so maybe I'll reem it out just a little bigger. Eric, check on top cap replacements...just in case...
. Anyways, I went out into the garage and chucked up a 1/16" drill bit and reemed it out...I rinsed out the shavings & screwed it back on and took a toke...sweet baby jesus!
It ROCKS!!ETA: It's still just a little harsh so maybe I'll reem it out just a little bigger. Eric, check on top cap replacements...just in case...
Last edited:
guess i should have addressed Eric too, I asked same question right before yours
well posts seem to come so fast sometimes it's hard to keep up 
I don't crank it all the way down tight. I stop when the air hole is aligned with the wick.
I was lining up right behind the wick but, I drilled out the airhole w/ a 1/16" drill bit and now I find I no longer need to do it. Getting a MASSIVE vape cloud.
The wick is shorting. 3 oxidation rounds (heat to orange, dip in water) is rarely enough. I've started to oxidize the unrolled mesh 5 times, added with 3 times after rolling, and 3 times e-liquid + flame. Now shorts are finally becoming more rare.
Sometimes you can get over a short by moving the coil at the wick, and wet burning it. Meaning, add a drip of juice, apply voltage while watching for the hotspots. If a hotspot occurs or the coil glows unevely, move the coil just a bit and try again. This will oxidize the wick in situ.
I've started to wrap the coil on the mesh before I put it in the atty(of course after I oxidize). When I get it one more wrap than I would normally use I torch that section again. Just torch the coil and wick underneath a little and that has helped me as well. But ymmv
Then I just set it up, fiddle with how many wraps and cross my fingersI think I know why the OEM wicks can't keep up with me and I was tilting more. Because it was thin, barley any layer's wrapped up. Just like a straw. After I made my own wick it seems to keep up better. Think I'll make my next wick a little thinner though. My airflow seems tighter with this wick, so maybe too tight of a roll.
I've started to wrap the coil on the mesh before I put it in the atty(of course after I oxidize). When I get it one more wrap than I would normally use I torch that section again. Just torch the coil and wick underneath a little and that has helped me as well. But ymmv
I think I know why the OEM wicks can't keep up with me and I was tilting more. Because it was thin, barley any layer's wrapped up. Just like a straw. After I made my own wick it seems to keep up better. Think I'll make my next wick a little thinner though. My airflow seems tighter with this wick, so maybe too tight of a roll.View attachment 136628
Swarley, what ss mesh do you use/prefer? #325, 400, 500?
I haven't had any luck yet with my coils. I oxidized the crap out of the mesh, like 4-5 torches maybe more, and then juice burns. I've yet to make a successful coil, not quite sure what it is. Ended up putting it away for a while as I was just getting frustrated.
One thing, do you guys feel like the wick hole is very small?
Also are there any oversights I may be having? Here is my usual process:
-Cut off my piece of mesh, trim off any strands if there are any.
-Torch mesh before rolling
-Roll mesh and size it up on the hole, and trim
-Torch 3-5 times, quench, then torch some more
-3 juice burns, and quench
Once I do all this I put the wick in and wrap a 2/3 or 3/4 coil. Once I get it all situated like I've seen in the videos I fire up a couple small dry burns. So far I've not had any luck in getting an even coil and most of the time it seems like it shorts out on the wick. If I pull the wick out, the coil fires just fine. I really don't think I can oxidize the mesh anymore than I already am, so I'm kind of out of ideas.
I think the coil I got is 32awg and the mesh is 325.
One thing, do you guys feel like the wick hole is very small?
Also are there any oversights I may be having? Here is my usual process:
-Cut off my piece of mesh, trim off any strands if there are any.
-Torch mesh before rolling
-Roll mesh and size it up on the hole, and trim
-Torch 3-5 times, quench, then torch some more
-3 juice burns, and quench
Once I do all this I put the wick in and wrap a 2/3 or 3/4 coil. Once I get it all situated like I've seen in the videos I fire up a couple small dry burns. So far I've not had any luck in getting an even coil and most of the time it seems like it shorts out on the wick. If I pull the wick out, the coil fires just fine. I really don't think I can oxidize the mesh anymore than I already am, so I'm kind of out of ideas.
I think the coil I got is 32awg and the mesh is 325.
Sounds like you're doing plenty of torching and burning. Only thing I notice to maybe try differently is that I fold over a little bit of the edge of the mesh (the edge that is going to be exposed) to eliminate any small strands from sticking out and shorting to the coil. My past experience with #325 mesh wick wasn't as good as #400 or even better, #500 (when I can find it). Finer mesh just wicks more juice up for me. First thing I did when I got my Griffin was throw away the factory mesh and coil. Well, I did try to fire it once just for kicks but I didn't really expect it to work as delivered, and it didn't... But it works well now with #400 mesh wick and Kanthal A-1 32ga resistance wire.
Anyway, try the folding thing...
Last edited:
I saw a link to a video somewhere where the guy uses rolling paper, cuts a small piece and rolls it on before rolling on the wire. Then burns it off. The purpose is- it forms an extra small layer of carbon between the wire and mesh to prevent contact/shorting. I think the link could be somewere earlier in this thread.
Seems like I prefer 400 mesh. I haven't tried 500 but want to. 325 works alright but doesn't seems to keep up with my vaping as much as 400.
I tried wrapping a 30awg coil last night and it just kept shorting and popping instantly. Switched to 32awg and no issues(knock on wood). Was wrapping both on the same ss mesh, weird I thought.
I tried wrapping a 30awg coil last night and it just kept shorting and popping instantly. Switched to 32awg and no issues(knock on wood). Was wrapping both on the same ss mesh, weird I thought.
2-escapereality=The rolling paper and edge folding tricks really work well imo. Aside from extra carbon, the paper provides a micro spacing that keeps the coil a bit more even cold/hot spot wise. Another thing that helps is to heat the coil before you wrap so it doesnt stretch as much.
L8R JP
L8R JP
Last edited:
I have a bunch of 30awg,32awg and 34awg. I'm gonna take some time and fiddle with all 3. Make sure I remember which one is which and see if I get any weird reactions again. Unfortunately I only have 400 mesh at the moment, but will probably be getting some 500 and more 325 when payday comes Gonna try to snag up some 28awg kanthal to try as well Oh all while trying to bring my genesis mini back from the grave
Soo many little projects, soo little time
Gonna try to snag up some 28awg kanthal to try as well Oh all while trying to bring my genesis mini back from the graveSoo many little projects, soo little time
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
