Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank

[dsy5]

So my last order was another Griffin but with a clear tank and two clear tank tubes. The stock clear tank Griffin leaked non stop

I also bought a Griffin with the clear tank but have not tried it yet - I also bought an AGA and have been trying it out exclusively. Maybe I should check the new Griffin for leaks. I did get 2 extra clear tanks and found that they are a bit tight on my other Griffins - perhaps they will help.

On a side note, I made 3 tanks from a 12 mm Ideal syringe and they fit so tightly that I do not even need the o-rings! No leaks either and the tank has been on for about 2 weeks.

 

[slin]

Know of a good place to buy a butane torch?

Here is one "
""Large Butane Iron-melting Torch"" for under 11 dollars from DX dotcom

 

[slin]

Clear tubes

My clear tube is already cracking in few places at the base on 4th day. I am using straight home brew watermelon(flavour art 30/70 vg/pg).

 

[gormly]

Clear tubes

My clear tube is already cracking in few places at the base on 4th day. I am using straight home brew watermelon(flavour art 30/70 vg/pg).

well that sucks, looks like I'll have to find some glass tanks.

 

[slin]

well that sucks, looks like I'll have to find some glass tanks.

The top part is holding ok i took the o'ring out on top. Base was too tight and even tighter with oring on. May be thats made it easier to crack on mine. Would like to know how others are holding up. Then again only 99 cents, We love to keep Eric busy

 

[gormly]

The top part is holding ok i took the o'ring out on top. Base was too tight and even tighter with oring on. May be thats made it easier to crack on mine. Would like to know how others are holding up. Then again only 99 cents, We love to keep Eric busy

.99 isn't much but it still sucks to have a cracked one so quickly.

 

[Big Screen D]

If the tank is tight, bevel the inner edge slightly with fine sandpaper, then warm up the tube by placing it in hot water just before assembling. Worked for me, though I did have one that is to loose and was a leaker and is unusable. Tight is better than leaking.

 

[Mooki]

got my griffin today and having some troubles.

i oxydized the mesh according to what is said in this thread with a butane torch and then water then e-liquid and so on

then i wrapped the wire around the screw the most close to the wick hole. then i wrapped 4 coils around the mesh and then wrapped the wire around the threads on the center post and screwed the to little nuts togeather to clamp it down.

and loaded it onto the Vmax and F2/F1 error... what have i done wrong.. i tried it on another ecig and it didnt even fire. no glowing no noise no smoke

have i messed it up somehow?

 

[CountSmackula]

My WAG... Either your ohms are too low or you're shorting on the mesh. For the first, turn down your Vmax as low as you can & pulse it to 'break the coil in'. For the second, you can try adjusting the coils a bit with your nails or a toothpick or you can try rotating your wick a bit.

got my griffin today and having some troubles.

i oxydized the mesh according to what is said in this thread with a butane torch and then water then e-liquid and so on

then i wrapped the wire around the screw the most close to the wick hole. then i wrapped 4 coils around the mesh and then wrapped the wire around the threads on the center post and screwed the to little nuts togeather to clamp it down.

and loaded it onto the Vmax and F2/F1 error... what have i done wrong.. i tried it on another ecig and it didnt even fire. no glowing no noise no smoke

have i messed it up somehow?

 

[Mooki]

My WAG... Either your ohms are too low or you're shorting on the mesh. For the first, turn down your Vmax as low as you can & pulse it to 'break the coil in'. For the second, you can try adjusting the coils a bit with your nails or a toothpick or you can try rotating your wick a bit.

thanks for your advice, its firing now but i dont really like the mesh it came with.

ill order some thinner stuff and i think this will rock

 

[BikerBob]

Well, I was able to find a screw that fit the threaded hole. Now to see if it will work but that's after the checkered flag today. Fellow has to have priorities right?
From the photos, you may be able to see the 2 threaded holes and how different they appear to be.
The next 2 are the supplied screws. If you look close, you may be able to see how sharp one is and how flat the threads are on the other one.
The long screw in the back is from Radio Shack, they have 2-56 nuts and bolts but they are course threads and we need fine threads. I'm still searching for those puppies.
All in all, it's been interesting to work on the various parts that I have gathered together so far.
And I will for sure keep using Eric as my main supplier, you can't ask for better gear, the best prices, quick shipping and he goes above and beyond customer service.

Have you checked a hobby shop? The ones that cater to radio control cars/planes? They should have smaller screws, or can get them. And in metric too. I checked my local hobby shop last weekend and they had screws down to 00-80, and metric to 2mm, I think. I did get some 'foam-cutter' (resistance/NiChrome) wire, the type that you put electricity through, it gets hot, and can cut through styrofoam. Was around $4 for 48 inches (can make a lot of coils from 4 foot) and appears to be 32 AWG. I need to compare it to the pre-wound/pre-wicked coils I got from discountvapors.com for my Phoenix clone. I think those were also 32AWG.

 

[Errol]

Have you checked a hobby shop? The ones that cater to radio control cars/planes? They should have smaller screws, or can get them. And in metric too. I checked my local hobby shop last weekend and they had screws down to 00-80, and metric to 2mm, I think. I did get some 'foam-cutter' (resistance/NiChrome) wire, the type that you put electricity through, it gets hot, and can cut through styrofoam. Was around $4 for 48 inches (can make a lot of coils from 4 foot) and appears to be 32 AWG. I need to compare it to the pre-wound/pre-wicked coils I got from discountvapors.com for my Phoenix clone. I think those were also 32AWG.

You can buy 32 AWG Kanthal resistance wire quite inexpensively on Ebay. This is a link for 100 ft delivered for $12.5.
100' A1 Kanthal 32 AWG Resistance Wire for RBA | eBay

100 ft Nichrome for $9 and less delivered. 32 AWG nichrome | eBay

Errol

 

[Victor Vandyke]

Have you checked a hobby shop? The ones that cater to radio control cars/planes? They should have smaller screws, or can get them. And in metric too. I checked my local hobby shop last weekend and they had screws down to 00-80, and metric to 2mm, I think. I did get some 'foam-cutter' (resistance/NiChrome) wire, the type that you put electricity through, it gets hot, and can cut through styrofoam. Was around $4 for 48 inches (can make a lot of coils from 4 foot) and appears to be 32 AWG. I need to compare it to the pre-wound/pre-wicked coils I got from discountvapors.com for my Phoenix clone. I think those were also 32AWG.

I'm pretty sure that the Griffin screws are M2-0.4x4 Socket Head Cap Screw (metric 2mm x0.4 thread pitch x 4mm long). Haven't had to replace one yet though. Should be able to find longer easy enough if needed due to stripped threads.

 

[dsy5]

I'm pretty sure that the Griffin screws are M2-0.4x4 Socket Head Cap Screw (metric 2mm x0.4 thread pitch x 4mm long).

This is the size - I have confirmed this. You may also be able to drill it out slightly and tap it with an M2.5 x 4.5 tap - I used this size tap to tap the 2nd wick hole in my Smok Vivi tank. Then you will get a tight fit, although the head of the 2.5mm screw may need to be ground smaller to clear the cap.

 

[pokerplaya]

It's funny. I've got this very curious creature living with me that likes to know exactly what I'm doing at all times. 3 of them in fact. These creatures also likes to jump up and eat things that I'm messing with, or at the least knock them all over the floor. For instance when taking apart my vivi novas, they have jumped up and both eaten parts, and knocked them on the floor, covering them in hair and dust and whatever else. Things get lost quite a bit in this house, so any spare parts, especially those that only cost 99 cents, can come in pretty handy.

I've got two of those "creatures" myself. The older one is no problem, the younger one however..... I have to put him into the bedroom when I have a project at the kitchen table. So I know exactly what you mean.

 

[pokerplaya]

I did the same thing, the double wrap but no joy either. I went to Radio shack to see if they had small enough screws but they are not the right ones either. Still searching for a cure.

I recently needed screws for the Smok Tech Vivi RBA/Hyper SRT that my wife bought me. I found them at my local Ace Hardware. I see you have an Ace Hardware on Hayes Road. I would look there....they probably have 'em.

BTW I don't recomend the Vivi RBA. Just a pain in the .... to work with. So that's why I ordered this Griffin/Vulcan DID clone. It is in the mail as I type this. As of now tracking says its still in NJ....hope to have it in my mailbox tomorrow. Maybe?? Probably Friday. I just cant wait!!

Edit: Ooops....I see you have the screws already. Silly me for not reading all the way thru the thread.

 

[Pelon45]

picked up my clear tank griffin the other day, after dreaming on how to set this up, first thing I checked was the ground screw, yep,
it doesnt tighten down ,
my first griffin, finally got a great wick/coil going at 2.4 ohms, disappointed on not being able to try getting a second griffin going.
off to the hardware stores.

 

[dsy5]

my first griffin, finally got a great wick/coil going at 2.4 ohms, disappointed on not being able to try getting a second griffin going.
off to the hardware stores.

See my post about 3 or 4 up from here; you may just want to try and tap it a bit larger if it becomes a problem for you.

 

[Dragoncqb]

You know I do prefer my Griffin for the ease of use, but I have had great success with my Smok tech Vivi RBA's. I have #1 set up with SS mesh wick using the second hole as a fill hole and #2 set up with 2 SS mesh wicks and drilled 1mm hole for filling it's a BEAST. When I first got them I had read they would come apart when sliding the tube off. I was very gentle taking them apart for the first time but once apart I removed the screws and forced the top a bottom together as hard and as far as the would go. I could feel when the center tube hit the bottom and went from about where the o-ring was to the bottom so it was half way up the bottom cap on both of them out of the box. After that by keeping the o-rings lubed they have not moved in the least I am using #1 right now with some marshmallow in it mmmmmm.

 

[dsy5]

I have had great success with my Smok tech Vivi RBA's. ... forced the top a bottom together as hard and as far as the would go.

I have a couple of them too. I have not tried the dual wick, but I may do that. When I got mine I had already heard about the center post coming out of the base. I was really careful when first pulling them apart, but I actually separated the bas eon when when I went to clean it. I ended up removing the screws, putting superglue (not a lot) on the post then pressing together. That worked so well I purposely pulled the second one apart and did the same thing. Had no troubles after that.

One thing I do when removing the tank now is that I have an old ss tube from something I had and it is just barely smaller in diameter than the tank. I invert the tank and place it over the tube, then push the tank downwards until it disconnects from the o-ring at the base. Once clear of the base, I use the tilting method to remove it the rest of the way.