Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank
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That's great that you've got the Vivi rba's rocking. The one I got the original screw heads looked like this---> \_/ So my negative connection kept sliding up off the screw head. I took a couple days away from this project, went to the hardware store and got some flat bottom screws. Now I cant get the tank off...I thought I put enough juice on the o-rings. 
I'll get it off somehow, Im not done with it yet. I saw the Griffin online and thought....yep I can work with this...unscrew the top cap and there ya go. After I get the Griffin up and going I'll return to the Vivi. I look at it this way, if I can get the Vivi working, there's my backup.
I'll get it off somehow, Im not done with it yet. I saw the Griffin online and thought....yep I can work with this...unscrew the top cap and there ya go. After I get the Griffin up and going I'll return to the Vivi. I look at it this way, if I can get the Vivi working, there's my backup. 
Sorry for not replying so soon but had a few projects to finish up. I finally got my Griffin working, took a few trips to various supply houses but I got it. So now I have an ample supply of screws, bolts, washers and nuts. I'm still trying to get my coils built right, just takes practice I think. But I was able to get the Griffin and my Smoktech RBT to work and dang what a difference they make. Now all I need to figure out is how to get the coil right so I can use the Griffin on my Vmax. So I think that patience, time and a little luck, I'll get it.
What I like about the tube is that I don't have to remove any screws or the wick/coil - it clears everything amd fits right up against the top plate. But anything that works to get the pesky tight tank started is a plus.
I'm in this boat now. After weeks of happiness w/ my Griffin, the bottom silicon insulator is so mushy, the bottom pin floats up & away from the center pin of my mod. Time to disassemble an old carto & try using that insulator. Hope it works.
Eric...I've seen pictures posted elsewhere of a stainless steel version of the "Griffin", any chance of you getting any of those?
There was another suggestion from someone who used waxed dental floss wrapped several times around the base to insulate their post. It appeared to be of the flat variety. Depending on the cartomizer, there may not be enough height to guarantee a good connection on the battery. Maybe a combination of both or two carto insulators?
I put atty/carto insulators in the top, leaves me with a spare original insulator for the "trickier" bottom. I also razor-cut syringe tips to make little washers that go on the outside of the insulators, for both the top and the bottom.
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I went slightly further and used the syringe tip for the top one not only as a washer but also have the tip fit into the hole, replacing the insulator altogether. The center post then goes through the tip.
I tried the cartomizer insulator on the bottom and it is a bit too thin to allow good contact with the battery. However if you use another one, cutting the top lip portion off, it is the perfect height. I first put the uncut insulator into the hole, then slide the cut part onto the center post and then insert it into the base. Worked out quite well. On the first Hydra I got, I used a bigger insulator that I think came out of a spent Ego battery. It was taller and was a bit thicker at the end. So much so that the post stuck out too far. I ended up grinding it down to a workable thickness. That one is still working good also.
Thnaks, dsy5. Your tip on the tips is appreciated. I may give your insulator replacement technique a try next rebuild
Thnaks, dsy5. Your tip on the tips is appreciated. I may give your insulator replacement technique a try next rebuild
If you try it, you wlii need to sand the tip slightly to get it to fit the hole. You also need to drill out the center a bit to get the pos post to fit. I started a drill bit in the end, then stopped. As the bit was stuck in there, I kept it in the drill and spun it on some sandpaper to get the proper diameter to fit the hole and also the overlapping top part. Then I finished off the center hole with the drill bit. It sort of becomes a hard plastic insulator.
You know what else I like about them? If you just pull the top off and drip juice on the wick with an empty tank you can taste test different juices to see if you like 'em or not. Burn the juice off and try another one (if not too strong a flavor, to where you couldn't get rid of it - but then again just rinse with water). 'Spose you can do this with a Griffin, too, but mine are usually filled.
Your pics seem off.
The size difference is much more pronounced here.
Does the Tiamat also have a short/wick positive post like the Hydra?
Your pics seem off.
The size difference is much more pronounced here.
Does the Tiamat also have a short/wick positive post like the Hydra?
Yeah, I got a bit closer on the Hydra shot - look at the width of the Provari... I'll try another shot to try to put it in perspective. I wasn't going for a comparison of size - just showing the two.
The pin on the Tiamat is slightly larger - maybe a mm or two.
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I dunno if you have any DCC tanks, but you can cut a DCC in half, or any 510 sized clear or ss carto, jam it into the top plug and then put any drip tip you want on it.
As I sit here in vaping bliss drawing on my freshly cleaned Griffin filled with my favorite juice, thought it's be nice to share my SS mesh/coil cleaning method with the DV crew.
I rigged, and I do mean rigged a holder from an eGo-510 adapter and an light switch cover plate so that I can suspend the Griifin coil side down in an Ultrasonic cleaner so just the wick sits in the water. Did it this way so the tank and fittings would not get filled up with water, and I'm unsure how repeated ultrasonic cleanings may affect the plastic tank and parts.
Anyway, after about ten minutes, the wick and coil comes out nice and clean. Not shiny metal clean like after a dry burn, but de-gunked and still nicely seasoned. Just dab the tip of the wick with paper towel to absorb excess water from the wick while holding it upside down, then fill and vape.
No dry burn=not re-creating any shorts, and will no doubt extend the life of the coils that I've so meticulously tweaked to perfection.
I rigged, and I do mean rigged a holder from an eGo-510 adapter and an light switch cover plate so that I can suspend the Griifin coil side down in an Ultrasonic cleaner so just the wick sits in the water. Did it this way so the tank and fittings would not get filled up with water, and I'm unsure how repeated ultrasonic cleanings may affect the plastic tank and parts.
Anyway, after about ten minutes, the wick and coil comes out nice and clean. Not shiny metal clean like after a dry burn, but de-gunked and still nicely seasoned. Just dab the tip of the wick with paper towel to absorb excess water from the wick while holding it upside down, then fill and vape.
No dry burn=not re-creating any shorts, and will no doubt extend the life of the coils that I've so meticulously tweaked to perfection.
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