Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank

Status
Not open for further replies.

CountSmackula

Genisis Junkie
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 16, 2012
8,946
23,516
BFE, KY
I read a couple of good threads about cotton wicks - choice materials & prep/set-up. Didn't subscribe to them, but I bet you'd find 'em if you used 'cotton wick' as your search terms. :)

works good
great blog, good info.
setting up for first recoil, then on to rba's if all goes well.
any thoughts on cotton vs silica
 

sparky parker

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 6, 2012
95
152
central illinois
I read a couple of good threads about cotton wicks - choice materials & prep/set-up. Didn't subscribe to them, but I bet you'd find 'em if you used 'cotton wick' as your search terms. :)

have read some, was wondering about taste, and wicking. i vape hard.
i like the vape on carto's, but perfer clearo's. good and bad both ways.
 

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
works good
great blog, good info.
setting up for first recoil, then on to rba's if all goes well.
any thoughts on cotton vs silica

I prefer silica, it will not burn, cotton will. Ever since quitting the stinkies, I have this dread of putting anything that is burning into my lungs. Go figure - I did that for over 30 years and now I'm worried about it!
 
Last edited:

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
I rewicked one of the Griffins for silica wick and it too is performin admirably. The ohms are a bit too high on this one, though - the Vivi has the neg hole very close to the wick hole, whereas the Griffin a bit farther apart. I used the same amount of coils and 34 Kanthal, so that extra amount of bottom leg upped the ohms. I'm just running at a higher voltage.

What I like about the silica is I don't have to point the airhole downwards. I've tried it in all positions and get no dry hits. (Try that with your mesh and see what happens)

That is one of my pet peeves about the mesh - you have to have the hole down. So if your atty does not fit on your divice perfectly, the fire button can end up in an unergonomic (non-firebutton friendly) position. I like it when my button is either straight up or preferably, straight down, firing with my thumb.

I have had my tank almost empty and had to slosh some juice to get the wick wetter; not really a dry hit, but not quite wet enough for the good flavor - a minor drawback. Or go back to the airhole down, I guess.

I have also played with the hole size and, for me, a little tighter draw provides the best flavor, a little airier, more vapor. I hope to find a happy medium.

No hot spots or shorts, ever. Rigged up two so far and both were easy setups. And you can really get the wick and top leg as close as you want without fear of shorting.

So far I'm kind of liking it, but I need more usage to see if it is going to replace my mesh.
 
Last edited:

AMUP0121

Full Member
Verified Member
Feb 23, 2011
41
30
Ohio
So I have been messing with the Griffin for about a week and I have been having the usual hot spot at the top coil issue. The one that I recieved has the negative screw that is stripped and I haven't seen anyone post which ones to get to replace it. I found some of the size I think, but I'm not sure if they will work. Does anyone know if these are the right ones, they seem like they might be too long:

M2-0.4x4 DIN912 A-2 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw | Fastenal

If not does anyone know where to get them? I have been trying to double wrap the coil around the neg. screw and just pushing it in the neg hole, it has worked so far, but I don't know if this might be the cause of some of the trouble I am having or not. I will just keep on trying til I get this right.
 
Last edited:

VaprRipper

Full Member
Oct 1, 2012
15
4
Chicago
Wow! The Tiamat is much bigger than I was thinking it would be. Almost looks wider in diameter than the ProVari. Nice style on it for a clone. Impressed by these pics. Bottom piece probably didn't need that much knurling on it. My order is in and I'm eagerly awaiting my 1st genesis syle tank.

Pictures of Tiamat and Hydra...
View attachment 146324 View attachment 146325

Edit: These pics are not to scale - not meant for size comparison!
 

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
Wow! The Tiamat is much bigger than I was thinking it would be. Almost looks wider in diameter than the ProVari. Nice style on it for a clone. Impressed by these pics. Bottom piece probably didn't need that much knurling on it. My order is in and I'm eagerly awaiting my 1st genesis syle tank.

It is slightly wider than the Provari, but not by much. I agree with the bottom knurling - the tank does fit down into the base quite a bit, but the knurling could have been kept to a minimum of height and more of a smooth finish. May be a need to mod here!!!

Photoshopped picture of possible cosmetic mod to Tiamet:

Modded Tiamat.jpg
 
Last edited:

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
So I have been messing with the Griffin for about a week and I have been having the usual hot spot at the top coil issue. The one that I recieved has the negative screw that is stripped and I haven't seen anyone post which ones to get to replace it. I found some of the size I think, but I'm not sure if they will work. Does anyone know if these are the right ones, they seem like they might be too long:

M2-0.4x4 DIN912 A-2 Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw | Fastenal

If not does anyone know where to get them? I have been trying to double wrap the coil around the neg. screw and just pushing it in the neg hole, it has worked so far, but I don't know if this might be the cause of some of the trouble I am having or not. I will just keep on trying til I get this right.

If you have an Ace hardware or even a hobby shop nearby, try there. I know Ace carries them. You would want a longer screw though - that last 4 denotes the length in mm. You would want to grab as many threads as you can. Another alternative ifs to get a 2.2mm-0.45 or 2.5mm-0.45 tap and resize the hole - it would be much tighter.
 

WillyB

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 21, 2009
3,709
591
USA
I rewicked one of the Griffins for silica wick and it too is performin admirably. The ohms are a bit too high on this one, though - the Vivi has the neg hole very close to the wick hole, whereas the Griffin a bit farther apart. I used the same amount of coils and 34 Kanthal, so that extra amount of bottom leg upped the ohms.
It shouldn't make a difference unless it's glowing. As long as the wire is firm on the base to the first wrap.
 

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
It shouldn't make a difference unless it's glowing. As long as the wire is firm on the base to the first wrap.

That's true, except with the silica wick, the bottom leg doesn't lay on the base well enough to ground it. I may crimp some NR wire to the coil on future builds.

Edit:Unlike the ss wick, the glowing of the coils is not as discernable with the silica - but the results are still good; lots of vapor and good flavor.
 
Last edited:

VaprRipper

Full Member
Oct 1, 2012
15
4
Chicago
Looks more better that way. Now people will be asking where you got that?

It is slightly wider than the Provari, but not by much. I agree with the bottom knurling - the tank does fit down into the base quite a bit, but the knurling could have been kept to a minimum of height and more of a smooth finish. May be a need to mod here!!!

Photoshopped picture of possible cosmetic mod to Tiamet:

View attachment 146659
 

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
What material is the tank? Polycarbonate? Thanks.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Yes, I believe it is poly carbonate. It is 20mm in diameter -not sure about wall thickness and height, since I have liquid in it now. But I would think that someone out there will make a glass tank for it.
 

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
I like the first & the third ones - the first because the knurling 'brackets' the tank, and the third because it's just so smooooth. :D

I think that the third one is probably more practical to make since it would be easier to take all the knurling off, instead of trying to get a good smooth transition into the knurling. Of course, screwing it together would be a bit more difficult. Gonna see if a buddy at work, who has a mini-lathe, would be inclined to have a crack at it.
 

dsy5

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 18, 2010
1,632
1,355
New York
On second thought, if I actually do this cosmetic thing, I think I will go with the first one. The top cap is exactly the same size as the knurled top plate and, depending how much stock needs to be removed to get rid of the knurling, it might 'hang' over the edges and spoil the straight look of the atomizer. But definitely, I think that huge area of knurling on the bottom has got to go!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread