Introducing The SMOKtech Arowinder 2000 DUAL VV/VW Bottom Twist - 2000mah ALL COLORS!

[dannoman]

SMOKtech Arowinder 2000 DUAL VV/VW Bottom Twist - ALL COLORS
$32.95

New from SMOKtech is a new 'twist' on eGo Variable bottom cap twist devices. SMOKtech has now introduced a DUAL Voltage/Wattage dial with a whopping 2000mah:

• 5 clicks turns this on and off
• Once on, 3 clicks switches between Variable Voltage and Variable Wattage. If LED is lit 'white' this means you are in Variable Voltage mode. Lit 'blue' you are in Variable Wattage mode
• VV is 3.2-4.8v and VW is 4.0 to 12w
• Dimensions: Length 126mm and Diameter is 19mm. This has the about the same diameter of the Arowinder 1500 and Arowinder 1000, it is just longer in length
• 2000mah
• Recessed flush button which is easier to operate with the top section manufactures in stainless
• Some of our favorite features: (1) Wide 19mm diameter provides STOUT footprint that will stand steady on your desktop without wobbling, falling and damaging your battery (2)Great patent glossy finger-print resistant finishes

When the battery goes below 30% capacity, a red light warns you that you need to recharge. It is recommended to charge with the dial set to 4.2v. The 2000mAh battery will last the average vaper about 16-20 hours of use depending on your voltage/wattage setting and atomizer resistance.

For the unitiated think of the Wattage mode as sort of an automatic mode - Once you set your wattage, you can use atomizers of any resistance and achieve the same vape intensity, but without having to change any settings. Its compatible with all things eGo-related, including tanks, clearomizers, cartomizers, atomizers and chargers. With the VV/VW ARO, you're getting all the functionality of an APV, with the simplicity and form-factor of an eGo!

• The firing button is recessed and It has improved circuitry providing better reliability and greater protection.
• The ARO Winder battery is safer than regular eGo batteries because it offers 3 kinds of Protection:
• Short Circuit Protection: When short circuit happens, the battery will shut down and not function again until short circuit is removed.
• Safety Cutoff/Atomizer Protection: If you press the button for 10 seconds, the battery will be locked until the next press.
• Low Voltage Protection: When the battery voltage is lower than 3.3v, the battery will shut down.
• The battery can be charged with our eGo 420ma USB Charger or an eGo 450ma USB Charger attached to your USB port or you can purchase also the wall adapter which gives a faster charge. Give the unit about 4 hours for a full charge and is recommended to set at 4.2v for best results and for a full charge.

SMOK ARO Winder 2000 VV/VW : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more
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[yiddleboge6]

Wow!!! Danno TY You've really got my attention with this one.....loving that it has vw !!!!

 

[FranC]

Love that purple one...........

 

[wolfstone5]

Looks like another winner!

 

[badkolo]

Looks like another winner!

yes its a winner for sure, vv and vw in a spinner style , in this case winder style, loving it

 

[cgrl]

Hi there............. Got mine in the mail today with my Smok mini trophy pyrex glass eGo clearo.............this thing Rocks!!





Thanks Got Vapes.........Danno, Chris, you guys are the best!!! And of course the rest of the crew as well!!!

 

[dannoman]

Always love to get the aftermath of an order : ) TY for reporting back...

Hi there............. Got mine in the mail today with my Smok mini trophy pyrex glass eGo clearo.............this thing Rocks!!


View attachment 359138


Thanks Got Vapes.........Danno, Chris, you guys are the best!!! And of course the rest of the crew as well!!!

 

[FranC]

Can I get a size comparison with a 1300mah winder please?

 

[iamthevoice]

That's pretty nice although I'm not sure about having to set it to 4.2v to charge (just a recommendation but still...). Nice looking unit for sure though!

 

[b1ggd0gg]

Ordered one in silver today!

 

[dannoman]

Fran close, very close but the 1300 is slightly thinner but at abt the same height...I'll try to get you a pic later...

Can I get a size comparison with a 1300mah winder please?

 

[b1ggd0gg]

Got mine in the mail today. As soon as I opened the box, I noticed a tiny rattling sound. It's the button. The new flush-mount button they seem so proud of on the website has a rattle to it. It functions very well though, vapes like a .... and I guess time will tell if the button is just a slight design flaw, or if it's a malfunction that's gonna cause trouble. I found a chart on here after reading about vaping on watts versus volts, and with my 2.2 ohm coil at 4.4 volts, from what I understand, it was between 9 and 10 watts. So I set her at 10 watts and it's vaping wonderfully. Now not to go off topic, but I plan on running through the 4 factory coils I have left and rebuilding them at 1.6-1.8 ohm. So at 10 watts, they will produce the same vape quality but use less power from my battery, correct?

 

[rdsok]

Got mine in the mail today. As soon as I opened the box, I noticed a tiny rattling sound. It's the button. The new flush-mount button they seem so proud of on the website has a rattle to it. It functions very well though, vapes like a .... and I guess time will tell if the button is just a slight design flaw, or if it's a malfunction that's gonna cause trouble. I found a chart on here after reading about vaping on watts versus volts, and with my 2.2 ohm coil at 4.4 volts, from what I understand, it was between 9 and 10 watts. So I set her at 10 watts and it's vaping wonderfully. Now not to go off topic, but I plan on running through the 4 factory coils I have left and rebuilding them at 1.6-1.8 ohm. So at 10 watts, they will produce the same vape quality but use less power from my battery, correct?

Rattly buttons are neither a flaw nor a feature... they are just how they are designed using larger tolerances ( gaps ). In fact, you will find very few buttons that don't rattle to some extent... Of course a plastic one may not sound as loud as say a metal one...

Vaping at a certain wattage will have a similar vape but won't be exactly the same simply because the amount of surface area also changes. If you are comparing the same gauge wire on each... the ones with a higher resistance will also have more surface area which can help saturate/vaporize the flavor more. Because you would be spreading out the heat ( wattage ) over a larger area, you can also increase the heat more before experiencing a burning flavor.

Everything about your coil build comes into play. Even wick types can make a difference. Still... vaping at a set wattage on different resistances, your vape will be similar even if it isn't identical. That is the main advantage that VW has over VV.

 

[VapingTurtle]

... with my 2.2 ohm coil at 4.4 volts, from what I understand, it was between 9 and 10 watts. So I set her at 10 watts and it's vaping wonderfully. Now not to go off topic, but I plan on running through the 4 factory coils I have left and rebuilding them at 1.6-1.8 ohm. So at 10 watts, they will produce the same vape quality but use less power from my battery, correct?

Probably not correct.

2.2 ohm at 4.4v draws 2 amps and produces 8 watts.
Voltage/Resistance=Current (Amps).
Current * Voltage = Wattage.

10 watts with a 2.2 ohm coil requires ~4.7 volts and draws ~2.13 amps of current.
10 watts with a 1.7 ohm coil requires ~4.1 volts and draws ~2.44 amps.

The capacity of a battery is measured in current * time (e.g., mAh [milliamp-hours]. So a battery's charge should last longer at 10 watts by using a 2.2 ohm coil rather than a 1.7 ohm coil.

That would be the case if we were using a theoretical battery that produced a constant 4.1 volts or a constant 4.7 volts. But, we're not. We are using a battery that starts at 4.2 volts and drops off quickly. The regulator in the PV trades off current to boost voltage.

Complicated, eh? So, I don't know which way would get more time out of the battery. I do think the difference would not be noticeable. The stuff rdsok was talking about would be way more important to your vaping pleasure.


The above was produced straight from a turtle's ..... Some of it is absolutely true and factual. Maybe all of it. We'll see if it holds water real soon now.

 

[rdsok]

I guess I should have double checked the math also... but as turt mentioned, I was talking more about the vape itself.

If you draw more current ( amps ), then the battery will not last as long. As the voltage of the battery drops, to maintain the same output ( either in volts or watts ) additional current must be used. The drain on the battery can be offset some by using PWM ( pulse width modulation ) which many VV / VW mods use. The lower the frequency of the pulses the better the battery life but most people don't care for it, it produces an effect that is sort of rattlesnake like... so many have started using a higher frequency to help smooth out the vape. High end mods such as the Provari or Darwin, completely smooth out the output so it's for all purposes is a pure DC signal.

 

[b1ggd0gg]

I'm kinda lost now... So to push a smaller coil to a certain wattage requires more amps.. I assumed (never assume, I know) that if it said the resistance was lower, that meant that it accepted a certain amount of power easier. Which makes me wonder why people choose to take their coils lower than stock when they rebuild. But I think I'm starting to understand partially why unregulated mods can become pipe bombs now. Because of the increased strain put on the battery as it's power is depleted while pushing super low resistance coils? Idk.. But thanks for explaining that to me. I'm sure as I progress (only been vaping a week) that it'll all come together

 

[rdsok]

I'm kinda lost now... So to push a smaller coil to a certain wattage requires more amps.. I assumed (never assume, I know) that if it said the resistance was lower, that meant that it accepted a certain amount of power easier.


Which makes me wonder why people choose to take their coils lower than stock when they rebuild. But I think I'm starting to understand partially why unregulated mods can become pipe bombs now. Because of the increased strain put on the battery as it's power is depleted while pushing super low resistance coils? Idk.. But thanks for explaining that to me. I'm sure as I progress (only been vaping a week) that it'll all come together

For the first part... Without actually doing the math... look at the equations that turt listed... the following to be exact...

Voltage / Resistance = Current (Amps)

Your dividing the voltage by the resistance... use a lower resistance and the current must increase to keep the equation in balance.

Unregulated mods can be relatively safe as long as you take the proper precautions and don't exceed the capability of the battery. Until recently, their advantage was in that they could handle higher loads ( current ) than the regulated mods could handle. To maintain a level of safety is relatively easy... always measure the resistance of the load ( coil ) so you don't over load the battery AND make certain that you get your batteries from a known vendor that carries authentic parts.

Where problems typically happen is when the user didn't follow those steps... they didn't keep the load ( resistance of the coil ) below the capability of their battery... or didn't test their resistance load resulting in a load too great for the battery... or they purchased a fake battery from an unknown source in order to save money.