iPV Mini?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Major911

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 31, 2014
1,136
1,739
Grand Island, FL, USA
It was only a matter of time that they released smaller versions of the SubTank. Kanger's plan for the original BPDC head was to make it compatible with all all their BDC attys larger than 14mm. When they scrapped the BPDC, it eliminated the OCC's use in the other clearomizers. I am looking forward to the small devices. Here's hoping they hold more than half a ml! :glare:

You know I really expected it to look huge on all my devices but was pleasantly surprised. Even at 25mm it looks great on everything I own with the exception of the istick...LOL it does kinda dwarf that one. And I can't say enough about those new OCC coils. Very impressive and I can't wait to rebuild one I've watched couple of videos on youtube and it looks easier to rebuild than some of my rda's.
 

ProStreet

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 30, 2008
366
13
46
Montgomery county Maryland
Just got mine today along with the subtank and it is reading .5ohm. So mine seems accurate so far. I have to admit this blows my previous old school VMAX and aerotank out of the water. I am finding even at .5 anything over 15watts seems to much. What watt does everybody else use for a .5 atty? The vapor production is insane and i am using 80pm/20vg liquid.
 

Flt Simulation

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 26, 2014
2,509
2,472
Florida
I am finding even at .5 anything over 15watts seems to much. What watt does everybody else use for a .5 atty?

Here is the problem as I see it:

Ohms law says that if you feed a 0.5 ohm coil with 15 watts of power, it will take 2.7 volts. The problem with the Mini is when in DC-DC mode, it does not have buck (voltage stepdown) capability. In other words, it cannot output any voltage to the coil [less] than what the battery is charged to.

And a fully charged battery will make at least 4.1 volts.

So, if you have a battery that has 4.1 volts, the minimum voltage that will be going to your coil is 4.1 volts.

And 4.1 volts into a 0.5 ohm coil just happens to be 33.6 watts .... and that's why your vape is so hot!

(NOTE: Your mini is only capable of 30 watts output, so that 33.6 watts actually becomes 30 watts to the coil).
_____________________________

You need to be operating that low of an ohm coil in the PWM mode (it has stepdown capability). Then if you select 15 watts for your 0.5 ohm coil, it will output 3.0 volts (not the 2.7 volts you really want, but close) ... the Mini is limited to 3.0 volts output minimum.

Or ... if you want to use the DC-DC mode, your going to need to use a much higher ohm coil in order to accurately get the correct watts you have selected to the coil.
____________________________

Bottom line .... The Mini does better with higher ohm coils than the 0.5 ohm your using.
 
Last edited:

Ringo®

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Nov 30, 2009
467
121
47
Norcross, Ga
Slapped the wrap on 20150108_154551.jpg
 

vjdossey

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 12, 2013
1,176
748
48
Antioch, CA
Here is the problem as I see it:

Ohms law says that if you feed a 0.5 ohm coil with 15 watts of power, it will take 2.7 volts. The problem with the Mini is when in DC-DC mode, it does not have buck (voltage stepdown) capability. In other words, it cannot output any voltage to the coil [less] than what the battery is charged to.

And a fully charged battery will make at least 4.1 volts.

So, if you have a battery that has 4.1 volts, the minimum voltage that will be going to your coil is 4.1 volts.

And 4.1 volts into a 0.5 ohm coil just happens to be 33.6 watts .... and that's why your vape is so hot!

(NOTE: Your mini is only capable of 30 watts output, so that 33.6 watts actually becomes 30 watts to the coil).
_____________________________

You need to be operating that low of an ohm coil in the PWM mode (it has stepdown capability). Then if you select 15 watts for your 0.5 ohm coil, it will output 3.0 volts (not the 2.7 volts you really want, but close) ... the Mini is limited to 3.0 volts output minimum.

Or ... if you want to use the DC-DC mode, your going to need to use a much higher ohm coil in order to accurately get the correct watts you have selected to the coil.
____________________________

Bottom line .... The Mini does better with higher ohm coils than the 0.5 ohm your using.

Ooooo good info and in a language even I can understand... thanks... so glad I'm still following this thread...
 

Flt Simulation

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 26, 2014
2,509
2,472
Florida
And here is proof that the Mini is incapable of outputting any less voltage that battery voltage (while in DC-DC mode):

This is the voltage shown on a Fluke multimeter. The battery voltage at the time was 3.8v

This was using a single 1.3 ohm resistance coil in a SvoëMesto Kayfun Lite-Plus atomizer.

The [Actual Volts Shown on the Multimeter] below was taken right at the coil mount screws with the fire button pushed and the coil burning.

Notice it never goes below the battery voltage of 3.8v (while in DC-DC mode)

Buck-BoostConverter.jpg
 
Last edited:

crxess

Grumpy Ole Man
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 20, 2012
24,438
46,126
71
Williamsport Md
Mini works Perfect in DC-DC Mode with my .5ohm coils.

Of course I am running 5.ohm in my
(3) Omega RDA's
(2) Magma RDA's
(1) Orchid RTA (actually .6ohm)

Also helps that I run all of these at or near 25 watts. :D

Flt Simulation - Please Note to people - All numbers you are posting are for Your Unit and may not reflect what theirs is or is not doing.
 

crxess

Grumpy Ole Man
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 20, 2012
24,438
46,126
71
Williamsport Md
Ringo®;14983488 said:
Nope........

That would depend on what one considers upgradable to mean. Information so far is confusing at best and NOT written in stone.
YiHi says Not Software upgradable. They also make the same note for several chips that have Been Firmware Flash upgraded.
NO, the features did not change but the power was increased.
This indicates changes may be able to be made. Possibly leaving us with a chance of seeing these thousands of units with incorrect ohm readings being fixed.
Until P4U Says we are SOL or YiHi says no way to fix - I'll wait to see.
 

Raguvian

Super Member
Verified Member
Dec 21, 2014
394
299
Houston
This looks like the megapixel race in digital cameras. I dont even need 30w :) but for sure shoud have its market

I am personally hoping they will sell the current Mini for even cheaper to clear out inventory for the v2. If I can get a v1 for under 40 bucks I will pick another one up. I am usually around 13-17w and have a mech if I want to go below .5 ohms. I have no need for 50w or .1 ohm firing, but really do want a second IPV so I'm not constantly charging and discharging my only one.
 

Flt Simulation

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 26, 2014
2,509
2,472
Florida
Flt Simulation - Please Note to people - All numbers you are posting are for Your Unit and may not reflect what theirs is or is not doing.

Your right, these numbers are only for my Mini.

How about you get out your multimeter and give us your numbers from your mini ... make sure you are in the DC-DC mode.

These SX130 circuit boards are mass produced, and I am pretty much convinced that they all act the same way under the same conditions.

But .......
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread