IPV3 Batteries, which to use for .2 and .1 Ohm builds?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Alright, battery topic.

I've got an IPV3 Box mod with a Mutation X V2 on the way to me now, I want to build down to .2 and .1 Ω but to do so safely I need better batteries (I bought eFest 35a batteries, link here -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJ8GJ92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now I don't mind just scrapping these and throwing that 30$ away if it's not safe enough for me to build down as low as I want to go with these batteries, but I do need some help on finding reliable batteries that are true 35A

Any help would be much appreciated, as I would rather not be risking my life for something so stupid that could be avoided by buying proper batts.

-Also, which battery charger is best?

I'm currently looking into http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-...-ultra-high-drain-rechargeable-li-ion-battery but I would like a 35A battery if possible.
 
Last edited:

smacksy

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 17, 2014
2,330
2,100
Alexandria, Louisiana USA
Alright, battery topic.

I've got an IPV3 Box Mod with a Mutation X V2 on the way to me now, I want to build down to .2 and .1 Ω but to do so safely I need better batteries (I bought eFest 35a Batteries, link here -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJ8GJ92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now I don't mind just scrapping these and throwing that 30$ away if it's not safe enough for me to build down as low as I want to go with these batteries, but I do need some help on finding reliable batteries that are true 35A

Any help would be much appreciated, as I would rather not be risking my life for something so stupid that could be avoided by buying proper batts.
20f10a355b39ab993a718978635414fc.jpg

Your gonna love the IPV3!
I'm running the 35A Efest in mine ..don't have to build so low like I had to with my mechs..got dual 24g macro coils at .5 ohms in the Dark Horse..Running it at 80-85 watts it produces tons of vapor!
Its a regulated mod and will fire about anything I can throw at it without worrying about my batts blowing up. Lol
Just about any batt rated at least 30A
will be fine in the IPV3...

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

smacksy

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 17, 2014
2,330
2,100
Alexandria, Louisiana USA
I use the purple 35A Efest and the newer red 39A Imren batts..
Can't tell a difference between the two..makes no difference as my IPV3 will fire any build from .1 to 3.0 safely because it uses a chip, completely different from just batt power alone in my mech..hope this helps
c551a9601a4ac7a95617f090eb2a9850.jpg


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 

brickfollett

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 25, 2013
1,357
1,167
Washington
Well how high are you talking?
Because I have a friend who does a .5 Ohm and 1 Ohm build and gets next to nothing, lol.

If those are on a mech, then yeah they won't do much. A mech puts out 4.2 volts no matter what ohms your coil is. at .2 ohms it'll do 4.2 volts for like 90 watts or whatever it is, I don't know the math. Most people do higher ohm builds on a regulated because they can adjust to 8 volts, some can go higher. A regulated doesn't really care what ohms the coils are to achieve its wattage as long as your ohms aren't above like 1.8 or so.

Thicker wire takes waaaay longer to heat up than say 28 or 26 gauge. If your using 22 gauge on a regulated, your wasting alot of power on the ramp up time. watts is watts. A 1 ohm coil cranked to 100 watts will (theoretically) produce similar results to a .2 ohm coil cranked to 100 watts. That varies alot based on the size and shape of the coil, but the same amount of power goes to those coils either way.
 

Jjshbetz11

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 15, 2013
917
1,015
46
Ohio
Well how high are you talking?
Because I have a friend who does a .5 Ohm and 1 Ohm build and gets next to nothing, lol.

As all regulated devices, the more ohms the less watts said device can push. P4u should have these spec's posted via website or instructions. Now knowing your "range" of operating load(to be able to take advantage of said watts of divice) your gonna want at least 26g kanthal( or equivalent of NC or whatevs you build with- ohm/inch). I use 24g. kanthal. Say I want .4 total build, means I can build 2 .8 coils. Using 24g lets me do anywhere from 8 to 12 wraps PER coil.( depends on i.d of coil)This equals alot of surface area on the wick, wich means clouds bra, clouds...
 
Last edited:

smacksy

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 17, 2014
2,330
2,100
Alexandria, Louisiana USA
I like 24g at . 5 ohm my IPV3/Dark Horse...these dual coils light up bright red hot instantly at 70w..but it produces the best clouds/flavor for me
at 82-85 watts with 100% VG.
This is my first VW mod and I love how I can dial in my sweet spot, something that was hard to do on a mech, for me anyway..


Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
Aye, well, I'll test a .2 Ohm setup with 28 Gauge Kanthol Wire, and a .4 Ohm Setup with the same wire.
I have 24 Gauge Kanthol as well, but not sure I'd use it much as I like 26-28g much more.

I don't plan on staying just at .2 Ohms, I will be making many other builds, but .2 Ohms is something I've wanted to try out for MONTHS now.
 

Jjshbetz11

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 15, 2013
917
1,015
46
Ohio
Aye, well, I'll test a .2 Ohm setup with 28 Gauge Kanthol Wire, and a .4 Ohm Setup with the same wire.
I have 24 Gauge Kanthol as well, but not sure I'd use it much as I like 26-28g much more.

I don't plan on staying just at .2 Ohms, I will be making many other builds, but .2 Ohms is something I've wanted to try out for MONTHS now.

Trust me, that 24g. will come in handy.. Think about it, less ohm/inch♒ more wraps per coil♒ more juice being vapped♒ more flavor♒ more clouds. Now that is taken care of, enter the air flow equation...
 

Jjshbetz11

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 15, 2013
917
1,015
46
Ohio
Should I build .2 at 24 Gauge then? Or keep that build at 28 Gauge? Wondering because I was mainly going to just use 28 Gauge for almost everything as I like 26-28 Gauge better.

Depends on what suits you. If you like a warmer vape compared to cooler. Seems like alot to swallow as I've been Following your posts tonight. If I remember correctly you have a mutation x waiting to be dropped off. Knowing that,(nobody buys them for flavor chasing) I would recommend 24 to start. All dem holes to a reason.... That reason is to cool down hot builds.
 
From what ive seen (general rule of thumb) the lower the mah rating the higher the amp rating. Could be wrong but im pretty sure im not. Ive been using those efest batts and my vtc4s for my entire vaping journey and havent had any issues. No hot batteries, no hot buttons, no decrease in battery life or anything. I actually prefer my efest over my sony. To each their own but ive built from 1.5-0.15 and only had a battery short one due to a 510 pin not being set correctly. And not one person has mentioned that these regulated devices have AMP LIMITS. It will only put out the wattage that it can handle at any ohm build.
 

tj99959

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
  • Aug 13, 2011
    15,118
    39,611
    utah
    Sorry man, but I don't want to see you, or anyone else get hurt.

    IMHO wanting to build a 0.1 ohm coil to use on a high wattage regulated mod simply indicates that you need to do a lot of basic research before using either.

    For example: there is NO SUCH THING as a 35a battery. Those that advertises them are citing "pulse" ratings, and there is no standard way of measuring the "pulse" rating of a battery.
     
    Last edited:
    Status
    Not open for further replies.

    Users who are viewing this thread