Good to know Aspire is doing TC right IMO. Did not know what Aspire did myself, I have plenty of devices I use regularly and not in the market to buy and try new ones when my current inventory is working for me for what I want to do.
Is TC an option for me?
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Good to know Aspire is doing TC right IMO. Did not know what Aspire did myself, I have plenty of devices I use regularly and not in the market to buy and try new ones when my current inventory is working for me for what I want to do.
I don't think there's a "wrong" way to it; if it works for you, you're doing it right.
I do it a bit differently. I like a really long draw but without it getting hotter and hotter throughout. I set the watts a bit above where I think I'd run a coil of that resistance without TC. Then I play with the temperature setting until I really like the vape. It sits in Temperature Protection most of the time with the mod controlling the wattage. The wattage is too high if I get a blast of heat and TP kicks in immediately. It's too low if the temp is meandering up and around and not reaching the set point. Other than that, watts are up to the mod.
Maybe it's just the dna boards, but I just set my triades and therions to max wattage for pre-heat and tc (for the batteries i have in them; 170W and 75W). The pre-heat is set to soft and boosts past 80W and then stabilizes at wherever it needs to be; 30W ish? Never had an issue, even for 15-17W coils. I don't mess with the wattage in TC other than setting it in escribe for the first time. Makes things simpler if that can work for your mod/coils.
If you're vaping in TC mode you really need to forget about the resistance of the coil, provided it works with the TC mod you are using. The old fashioned concept of subohming goes out the window when you switch to TC vaping.
For example, I have TC coils for my Aspire Nautilus. Now, in normal wattage mode the idea of trying to subohm with a .3ohm coil in a Nautilus in insane. There is no possible way for that to give you anything other than seriously burnt, nasty tasting hits. But that's exactly what the TC coil in the Nautilus is, a 0.3ohm nickel coil.
The resistance isn't important with TC, it's the operating temperature that matters. Subohming is normal with TC, but not because you're subohming in the traditional sense, but only because that is the normal operating range of a TC coil. With TC you're concerned about the temperature, not the resistance of the coil. The resistance is usually irrelevant, and almost always under 1ohm, only because that is the resistance of TC capable wire.
I ended up trying a Vaperesso tank which I haven't used for quite a while. It already had a SS set of coils .23 ohms and works with the Pico 25, good flavor and vapor. The tank is 2 3/4 inches tall and the unit is 2 1/2 inches so it looks a little funny but it works. I did find a Griffin tank that's smaller and would look better, I'll probably get it some time in the future.
The details of my setup are in the signiture area and are roughly similar to your situation, mostly low watts. That setup is what I vape 99% of the time. I also take a few puffs a week on a Nautilus mini with the same power settings except no TC. The N mini is still a very good vape. I won't rely on it for several reasons including concerns about government interference with access to products. I think using a tank at the lower power levels makes TC optional. The rda I'm using most of the time is far more servicable when dry puffs are eliminated via temp control.
Stockpiling is a controling influence on my setup. For less than it used to cost me to smoke for three months I have enough mods, atomizers and nic to last 10 years, may be 20. To make that work my vaping habits need to conform with what's in the stockpile. I'm not on the hunt for the latest and greatest. I've got a quality vape for trivial cost that's free of government interference.
**Update-Need input from TC vets PLEASE**
I built a single SS coil that came out to about 1.1 ohms. ID 3 mm and 6/7 wrap. Took me a little time to find the temp that I liked and settled at 400F, and then set it to 14 watts. Was a pretty good vape. Had some issues through the week with multiple hits in a row that produced minimal vapor, this happened maybe 1x/day since Saturday. Juice level and wicking was not the problem. I would unscrew the atty (Kayfun 5 SXK clone) to reset the baseline resistance and click Yes when my mod asked if it was a new set up. This would fix the problem and all was good again. I open the deck today expecting to see a fairly clean wick and coil and was very surprised. The wick and coil were black but the coil had minimal buildup. I found some black flakes inside the chimney and cleaned it all up. Just put a clean wick in and going to try again, but at a lower temp, same watts. Can already tell 370F is not going to cut it.
What am I doing wrong? I liked the temp of vapor at the 390-400F range. I did go up to 420F when trying to find the right temp, was that too much, too soon? Is there a break in period with SS that wasn't necessary with kanthal? Is my watt setting too high? Can't imagine that as I would vape the same in power mode. The wick was dirtier than I ever experienced when using kanthal in power mode, especially in less than a week's time. I never got a burnt taste that would lead me to believe the wick would be as black as it was.
I built a single SS coil that came out to about 1.1 ohms. ID 3 mm and 6/7 wrap. Took me a little time to find the temp that I liked and settled at 400F, and then set it to 14 watts. Was a pretty good vape. Had some issues through the week with multiple hits in a row that produced minimal vapor, this happened maybe 1x/day since Saturday. Juice level and wicking was not the problem. I would unscrew the atty (Kayfun 5 SXK clone) to reset the baseline resistance and click Yes when my mod asked if it was a new set up. This would fix the problem and all was good again. I open the deck today expecting to see a fairly clean wick and coil and was very surprised. The wick and coil were black but the coil had minimal buildup. I found some black flakes inside the chimney and cleaned it all up. Just put a clean wick in and going to try again, but at a lower temp, same watts. Can already tell 370F is not going to cut it.
What am I doing wrong? I liked the temp of vapor at the 390-400F range. I did go up to 420F when trying to find the right temp, was that too much, too soon? Is there a break in period with SS that wasn't necessary with kanthal? Is my watt setting too high? Can't imagine that as I would vape the same in power mode. The wick was dirtier than I ever experienced when using kanthal in power mode, especially in less than a week's time. I never got a burnt taste that would lead me to believe the wick would be as black as it was.
Wicks getting black is normal; it's just the flavoring getting trapped into the cotton and over time it caramelizes from the heat, thick dark liguids tend to gunk up wicks faster. I wick mine like Qorax Stan (he's a reviewer on youtube) does and have little to no issue. I run my kf5 at around 420f with a 26 awg ss316l .45 ohm coil. My dna devices keep the wattage around 20 watts. I re-wick every two to three weeks, I've been using the same coil for about three months now.
Thanks. I use the same type method of folding the ends down into the well, but don't leave the ends as long as he shows. I'm going to try that on the next rewick. The flavor was still solid, I was just caught off guard and that lead me to swap thinking I ran it too hot. The wick wasn't burnt but sure as hell looked like it. My juice has a dark orange color (pipe tobacco flavor) to it and am sure that's a part of it as well.
Any tobacco flavored e-liquid gunks up coil in no time from my experience.
My most used flavor is tobacco, I have a collection of different tobacco flavors so I'd disagree with tobacco gunks up coils. I also believe the initial resistance of the coil helps determine what temp the coil thinks it is at. The wicking cotton just begins to burn ( begins turning brown) at 400 F
so 400 F should turn the cotton a little brown. I usually try to find what the manufacturer uses for a SS coil and go with that resistance.
so 400 F should turn the cotton a little brown. I usually try to find what the manufacturer uses for a SS coil and go with that resistance.
Don't worry about being boring I for one am not interested in rda or anything related to those, i use a premade coil of .25 atm it's stainless but rated in watts. I've used it in temp since yesterday, my mod gives me the option to choose the max wattage so i get it to a nice level to get that temp easier, sure i don't get the same flavor but i can take longer puffs this way and vapor is much less hot to inhale. (keep in mind i'm doing sub 0hm though, no idea about an above 0hm setup but i imagine it's pretty much the same.
Be careful when doing that. The coil has to be cold / at room temp when you attach it to the mod. If it's at all warm from vaping on it when you unscrew then re-screw it on ... it will give the wrong baseline Ω's to the TC board in your mod. The wire/coil's Ω's changes when it's heated. You want the TC board in your mod reading a 'cold' coil when you answer 'new coil'.
I use the nx75 in tc mode with prebuilt coil for my fat Scylla sv .25 coils at 525 degrees at 50 watts
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