Is this how twisted builds are supposed to be?

[jj6404]

I just put my first twisted build in my Troll. It's pre-twisted 28 Guage 6 wraps around 2mm screwdriver. It takes a little to heat up on my SMPL as expected but what I'm concerned about is sometimes it pops. I mean it REALLY pops like an explosion. Also my mod gets warm and when I take the battery out it's also warm. I'm worried that I maybe snipped one of the legs while tightening down the screws and it is shorting on me. Don't have a regulated mod or ohm reader (I know I know) to test it on but at least I know it should be coming out to around 0.27-0.3+ ohms.

Is the popping and the battery warmth normal for twisted builds? My go to is 24 Guage dual coils at 0.25 ohms and my battery doesn't get warm. At least I think it doesn't...

Here's a pic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[zachdelaro]

good call on the possibility of the short. honestly, the best thing to do would be to ditch the build.

how did it fire up before you wicked it?

 

[jj6404]

good call on the possibility of the short. honestly, the best thing to do would be to ditch the build.

how did it fire up before you wicked it?

It glowed evenly and nicely. I'm still using it. Seems to be working fine now. Idk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ImThatGuy]

Oy vey! Get an ohm meter...you'll have better assurance of the resistance with it than relying on your thoughts of "I know it should be coming out to around 0.27-0.3+ ohms (that my friend...is a large variance in sub-ohming)

 

[minimalsaint]

Stop what you're doing and get some equipment to test your builds. This is the pinnacle of irresponsibility.
How many amps are you pulling at your assumed resistance? Can your battery handle it?

 

[Asquad]

Popping is normal with twisted builds. The nooks and crannies created by the twist traps liquid and SUPERHEATS the vapor !

 

[jj6404]

Stop what you're doing and get some equipment to test your builds. This is the pinnacle of irresponsibility.
How many amps are you pulling at your assumed resistance? Can your battery handle it?

An ohm reader doesn't tell you amps or if your battery can handle it. I used to have a regulated device that I used to read ohms. I know what my builds come out to. I used steam engine and the same builds on a regulated for a while before I gave it away. I know my batteries are 20A max continuous discharge and that even at 0.22 ohms it pulls 19 Amps. That's why I only ever build 0.25 (which pulls 16 amps) and above.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[93gc40]

Based on your original post and the fact that at 16amps+ you ARE flirting with the batteries limits. You probably might want to avoid the "high and mighty" attitude.

YOU DO NEED A METER. The meter on the device is there to advise you, and warn of possible issues NOT for building coils. Have you even checked to see if your device reads correctly?????? MOST Volt/ohm meters have an ERROR rate. Do you know what yours is? I have one meter almost 1ohm off. When I first stated building protank coils couldn't figure out why all my 1.5ohm builds were 2 wraps different than the calculators. Until I got a new 510 meter and a Volt/ohm NOT from Harbor frieght. N

 

[jj6404]

Based on your original post and the fact that at 16amps+ you ARE flirting with the batteries limits. You probably might want to avoid the "high and mighty" attitude.

YOU DO NEED A METER. The meter on the device is there to advise you, and warn of possible issues NOT for building coils. Have you even checked to see if your device reads correctly?????? MOST Volt/ohm meters have an ERROR rate. Do you know what yours is? I have one meter almost 1ohm off. When I first stated building protank coils couldn't figure out why all my 1.5ohm builds were 2 wraps different than the calculators. Until I got a new 510 meter and a Volt/ohm NOT from Harbor frieght. N

LOL. No high and mighty attitude here. I know I need a meter and I know most have an error rate that's why I build with at least a 0.05 buffer. And that is why I haven't decided which ohm reader to purchase yet. I never said I will never get an ohm reader or that I don't need/want one. I'm as passionate about vape and battery safety as you are and I don't think anyone should build blindly or without doing their research.

With that being said, I have done my research, and I know from not only my own trials but many others experiences over time and reputable sources that 16 A is not "flirting" with a 20A battery's limits in any "dangerous" manner. I mean it's all dangerous. We can only mitigate that danger within tried and tested and generally accepted limits. I know people who regularly build 0.2 or lower on the Samsung smurfs and who build on purple efests like that BS 35A rating is true. Now I would never do that, but I will build down to 0.25 on both aforementioned batts as I've determined that relatively safe and MUCH safer than what I see many others do with no detrimental effects thus far.


Like I said my go to build is 6 wraps 24 Guage with a 2.4 mm ID dual coil. I used this build fifty times when I had an ohm reader and it always read 0.25 ohms on a reader and numerous regulated devices. So I'm pretty confident doing that same build on my mechs for the time being without an ohm reader to test it everytime.

I originally used steam engine to get those specs. So if steam engine says 5 wraps of twisted 28 with 2mm ID on a dual coil setup should be 0.25 ohms, I'm pretty sure if I do 6 wraps then I'm not pushing more than 16 A at the most out of these 20A batteries.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[minimalsaint]

An ohm reader doesn't tell you amps or if your battery can handle it. I used to have a regulated device that I used to read ohms. I know what my builds come out to. I used steam engine and the same builds on a regulated for a while before I gave it away. I know my batteries are 20A max continuous discharge and that even at 0.22 ohms it pulls 19 Amps. That's why I only ever build 0.25 (which pulls 16 amps) and above.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, it can't. But it can give you a part of the equation needed to figure out your build properly. If you were wrapping coils that gave you a larger buffer to the limit of your battery, then it wouldn't be an issue. The fact is you are hovering right on the edge of what your battery can handle and you don't even consider the possibility that your build is overshooting the limits, making your mod and battery hot. For the record- it's not normal. Twisted wire or otherwise.
I have also built plenty of coils and can wrap them to my preferred resistace with my eyes closed, but since variables happen (loose connections, shorts, etc.) that can alter the resistance of the build, I always meter everything out before I even think about firing it let alone sticking it close to my face.
Good luck with your guesswork. hope that works out for you.

 

[ScarecrowJenkins]

Popping is normal with twisted builds. The nooks and crannies created by the twist traps liquid and SUPERHEATS the vapor !

This. Especially so since the wire doesn't seem to be twisted all that tight. The juice collects in the small channels between the wires and heats up before the majority of the coil. Its very common when using more complex wire, especially anything involving ribbon wire. So don't worry, it's normal

 

[Crewdog00]

Mine did the same thing. Spitting like crazy. Didn't wanna even try it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jj6404]

To update, I've been using the same build and it's performing beautifully. No mod warmth, no battery warmth. I was just being paranoid but I think it was just warm initially from all the dry firing I did to pinch the coils.

Btw I knew twisted wire traps juice and spits before I made this thread, I just wanted to see how others described the severity of the spitting. Anyway I re-wicked and pinched them tighter this morning and it barely spits now, just dense thick juicy vapor.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sedition]

Spitting has a little to do with airflow as well - reducing the airflow will help this, if you don't mind a tighter draw. I've been using twisted exclusively for a month now, really enjoying. I'm finding that tighter twists give a touch more flavor in my Origen V3.

 

[jj6404]

Yeah I'm using it in my Troll, so tons of airflow here. Plus I'm using the chuff top so I pulled the coils as far away from the posts and as close to the chamber walls as I could without touching. Using it with two air slots open on both sides still gives great flavor. One slot is too tight for the chuff top. It only spits in my mouth now if I overdrip directly on the coils.

I'm using this pre-twisted dual 28 Guage by UD that I got just to bring the total up on an order so that u could use a coupon. I've never twisted my own but I've watched tutorials and I'm wondering if this stuff isn't twisted as tight as it could be.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Froth]

I've never twisted my own but I've watched tutorials and I'm wondering if this stuff isn't twisted as tight as it could be.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It could be twisted much tighter.

 

[jj6404]

Twisted builds are more for flavor than vapor, yes?

And they probably drain more battery and burn hotter because they are dual parallels? Like if I had the same number of wraps of 24 Guage as 28 Guage twisted at the same resistance, the twisted 28 would burn hotter?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TorontoOntario]

You know the resitance lowers when you twist the wire. Im pretty sure 6 wraps of 24 gauge in a dual setup is under .25 ohms which is really as low as you want to go with the best batteries. I dont even know what cells your using, if there authentic or fake etc etc but my advice would be to get a few ohm meters (they cost next to nothing) and until you have one build coils that you KNOW will be HIGHER in resitance then you would normally use. I DO NOT mean shoot for .6 ohms, I mean go for a few points over an ohm so you know at least the resitance is not to low. When I started this journey you took small steps, learning all the way. People just jump in wth a high wattage box or a mech and a RDA these days (not saying you did) and it just drives me crazy. I guess its partly the technology and also the fact that somehow vapeing got "cool." Please man, just get an ohm meter.

 

[jj6404]

You know the resitance lowers when you twist the wire. Im pretty sure 6 wraps of 24 gauge in a dual setup is under .25 ohms which is really as low as you want to go with the best batteries. I dont even know what cells your using, if there authentic or fake etc etc but my advice would be to get a few ohm meters (they cost next to nothing) and until you have one build coils that you KNOW will be HIGHER in resitance then you would normally use. I DO NOT mean shoot for .6 ohms, I mean go for a few points over an ohm so you know at least the resitance is not to low. When I started this journey you took small steps, learning all the way. People just jump in wth a high wattage box or a mech and a RDA these days (not saying you did) and it just drives me crazy. I guess its partly the technology and also the fact that somehow vapeing got "cool." Please man, just get an ohm meter.

Believe me. It drives me crazy too. I am getting an ohm meter. I've yelled at people I work with in person about how to not listen to the vape snobs at my b&m who pushes them to get a mech and rda as their first "ecig". It's ridiculous. So trust me when I say I'm on your side.

6 wraps of 24 with a 2.4 ID is 0.25 ohms. Right now I'm running 5 wraps of 24 with a 3mm ID which steam engine says is 0.25 ohms as well. I know the ID factors into the surface and coil amount which definitely affects the resistance. I'm using authentic Samsung 25rs and efests purples(LG he).


Btw when I lost my ohm reader and even when I had one, I was building tenths of an ohm over what I desired. I never built below 0.33 at that time. I did this for a while until talking with some reputable "experts" and doing some more research about had room and whatnot until realizing that I feel safe making a relatively informed decision to build down to 0.25 ohms on my current batts.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[93gc40]

Coil id does not affect the resistance or surface area, AT ALL. It does affect the length and width of your coil though.