I've been having problems using my istick Pico in TC mode since I got it last autumn, sometimes the mod would undershoot or overshoot the desired temperature, and the resistance it reads for the atomizer changes in unpredictable ways.
Now that I've discovered the ArcticFox firmware, I'm able to see live readings from the ohmmeter, and I'm seeing resistance jumping between 0.68 and 0.74 every few seconds even after several minutes of not firing, which is equivalent to an error of about 100C. I've checked the scratch code on the package, and the mod (or at least the package) is genuine eleaf, the tank is eGo ONE Mega and the head is CLR with my own 316 stainless steel 26 gauge wire contact coil.
I've read that using an atomizer with a rubber grommet (such as the CLR head) instead of RTA-style posts may lead to bad resistance readings and therefore TC mode problems. I've also read about faulty ohmmeters on some iStick Pico mods. Are these symptoms more likely to be caused by a faulty ohmmeter or the rubber grommet? Any relevant advice is appreciated.
Now that I've discovered the ArcticFox firmware, I'm able to see live readings from the ohmmeter, and I'm seeing resistance jumping between 0.68 and 0.74 every few seconds even after several minutes of not firing, which is equivalent to an error of about 100C. I've checked the scratch code on the package, and the mod (or at least the package) is genuine eleaf, the tank is eGo ONE Mega and the head is CLR with my own 316 stainless steel 26 gauge wire contact coil.
I've read that using an atomizer with a rubber grommet (such as the CLR head) instead of RTA-style posts may lead to bad resistance readings and therefore TC mode problems. I've also read about faulty ohmmeters on some iStick Pico mods. Are these symptoms more likely to be caused by a faulty ohmmeter or the rubber grommet? Any relevant advice is appreciated.