It sure would be nice if...

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JamBandPhan

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Jan 26, 2010
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somebody out there sold pre-wired atty connectors. I know part of the experience of DIY is doing all the work yourself, but it would be nice to find some atty connectors that were pre-wired for those of us who are inexperienced with soldering. They are hard to work with for a newbie like me, I have ruined 2 already, and I am sure there are more to follow. I guess it's all part of learning how to do it right, but man I would be willing to pay a little more if one of the modders supply sites would have some pre-wired up for sale... instead of throwing my money in the trash, and getting frustrated. :shock:
 

perlion

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Nov 21, 2009
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I'll tell you how I do it.

Roll up the nichrome to your liking or not it really doesn't matter. Measure out the length of nichrome by the ohms you would like. I normally use 3.2 for a 5v mod.
Bend small hooks on each end of the nichrome and on the lead wires. These hooks should be as small as possible or no more than 1/64th" .
hooks the nichrome hook and the lead hooks together. pinch them together with needle nose pliers.
Flux the joint with plumbers lead free tinning flux. I use "Oatey No 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux". Go to an electronics supply and get some silver solder.

You should have no problem as long as your iron is hot enough.

On the connector just use a hot iron and work quickly.

Good Luck.
 

JamBandPhan

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You really should seperate the center connector to solder to it.
You might see if Nerf still has some. I know his thread is still up.

I agree, it would make things a lot easier, but the little rubber gasket in the middle keeps tearing in half when I poke the center through. I don't know any other way to remove them besides popping them out, and they are no good once the gasket is broken in half. .
 

Dudeman

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I agree, it would make things a lot easier, but the little rubber gasket in the middle keeps tearing in half when I poke the center through. I don't know any other way to remove them besides popping them out, and they are no good once the gasket is broken in half. .

Drip a drop of e-liquid in the connector before you pop out the center. Do the same when you put it back in. A little lube always helps. ;)
 

Keegan1014

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heck I use a map gas real plumber iron for my copper mods
for the adapter install Im totaly going away from epoxy as I hate epoxy.
I do remove the center post before hand thou.
and if you get the butane iron you will have both conections done in 2 seconds.
just let the iron heat up at full power for a min.
 

Rocketman

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I have recently started using adapters as connectors instead of using connectors as connectors. Huh?

When I make an order for stuff from either HG or HC I toss in some adapters. 10 or 20 don't run the shipping up to the next weight point and there are typically 5 for $7.

They are generally a little heftier that the connectors you find, check out the 801 bat to 510 atty connector on the HG site, massive chunk of chrome plated brass.

The one I've been using lately is the HG05100901. You can use it as a 510 bat to 901/808D-1 adapter or as a threaded in connector, or a pressed in connector for an 808D-1. I've found it needs just a little tuneup though.

In the SECOND photo attached, I've opened up the inner to outer connector clearance on the 510 male side. Beveled both edges and increased the protrusion of the center connector. If you are going to solder to the 510 side, dremel a small area to remove any chrome to give a clean brass area to solder to. With this adatper (510 to 901) Screw an old 901 atty on it as a heat sink when soldering.

On the 901/808D-1 male side (First photo), I've opened up one of the two breather holes and the inside a little because the insulator blocks off part of the air path.

And a photo of one mounted.

Rocket
 
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