itaste VTR

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Maza

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Feb 20, 2016
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Hi everyone I am completely new to using forum's ( no fool like an old fool) so I hope i am doing this right.
I am 69 years old and have been smoking since, well I shouldn't say but most of my life.
I turned to vaping about a year ago, didn't know anything about vaping and in the end packed it in as I couldn't get on with it. Wrong machine, wrong liquid, cheap machine etc. Six months ago I tried again with a itaste vtr, this has been fine and I am getting better at knowing what suits me best now.
I had a problem yesterday though, which has now got me worried, watching TV i picked up my itaste to use it, I hadn't used it for 30 mins or so, it was switched on as I always leave it switched on through out the day and never had a problem before. When I picked it up off the coffee table (wooden) it was very very hot in fact had I put it in my mouth I think it would have blistered my lips. The mouth piece the tank and the side the battery was was very hot. I took the battery out and though it was warm it was not as hot as the tank etc. I have the settings at U5.0, P5.0, I use vapemate menthol liquid. I have tendered to leave the machine switched on once I start in the morning and switch off at night . Anyone had this before or have any ideas what I am doing wrong.

Maza
 
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djsvapour

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Hi @Maza

This does sound worrying. You can take the battery out of the VTR, yes?

Can you inspect it visually and also tell us what make/model/numbers/identification is on it. A hot mod is not good news and whilst it could be either the mod or the battery or the atomizer - it's be safest to find out if your battery is a) healthy and b) the right sort.

U is Volts? 5.0 is not too crazy. What tank?
P is Power? 5.0 is a strange setting.

*comment deleted here, not relevant*
 
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djsvapour

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Hi Maza.

You need a new battery ideally. Those are no longer recommended. I have 4 of them all gone to waste. Someone will no doubt link you to the 'blogs' on this subject.

Now, Volts (U) and Power/Watts (P)

When you set the U to 5.0, you are asking the mod (your VTR) to use 5 volts to power the atomiser. Setting U to 5.0 would ususally result it quite a powerful vapour. Setting P to 5.0 would usually limit it to a very weak and 'thin' vapour. The difference should be very noticable indeed.

Your atomizer has a 'coil' (replacement head) in it. That will have a resistance marking on the side. 2.1ohms (or 1.8/2.5) or even something more or less.
 

Maza

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Feb 20, 2016
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Hi many thanks for your reply. The battery is a samsung ICR18650-26F M SDIEM TFU2 and is covered with a pink covering.
I have never been sure how to set up the itaste so thought being mid way on the settings would be best. I take it that you think I should lower the p setting
The tank is the one which came with the box set and is a clearomizer 30
Good, I thought so.

Can I ask just one more please, for now.

Is it a tank with a silver cartridge with lots of holes in inside?
yes
 

djsvapour

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OK. It's an iClear30s clearomiser.

iClear 30 S Dual Coil Clearomiser

The replacement coils are most likely 2.1ohms, although they also do a 1.5ohm.

iClear 30s Dual Coil Head

OK - if you use the VTR at 5.0 volts with the 2.1ohm the result will be an 11 watt vape. 11 watts should be quite good. :)

(with the 1.5ohm, you'd get 16 watts, which exceeds the capability of the VTR and might burn as well)

If you set the "P" to 5.0, you are asking for 5 watts, so about half the vapour should be created.

I could imagine a) using a 1.5ohm coil causing some heat, but not worryingly so.
b) maybe the battery is getting old (?) and it should be replaced anyway, ideally (please, for your safety).
c) is the coil old or are you getting burny tastes?
d) did it only happen on U = 5.0? Is it OK on P = 5.0? (that shouldn't be an trouble at all)

I'm off out to the shops now. I'll come back later. :)

Dave.
 
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djsvapour

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Many thanks for your help Dave. I now realize that setting the watts higher is better.
I use 30ml bottles of liquid and change the coil with each new bottle my useage is about 3ml per day so change coils approx every 10 days. I will take your advise and get a new battery. You have help explain quite a lot for me Cheers Maza

No problem. :)

If you like the iClear 30S, I can recommend you buy a good stock of them (tanks and coils) for the future. Vaping is under threat and that tank (being over 2ml) will be banned quite soon. I don't know how easily you'll be able to get spares right now, but May 2016 is the date for the European TPD. Retailers have some scope to sell off stock (for a year) but it's a grey area.

I am stocking up on certain things from Fasttech (China).
Here are your coils if you wanted to buy a bulk load.

$17.55 Authentic Innokin iClear 30s Clearomizer Coil Heads (10-Pack) 10-pack - 2.1ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

and the tank

$8.60 Authentic Innokin iClear 30s Dual Coil Tank (3.0mL) - 2.0ohm / rotatable drip tip at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 

Baditude

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Hi many thanks for your reply. The battery is a samsung ICR18650-26F M SDIEM TFU2 and is covered with a pink covering.
upload_2016-2-20_13-21-35.jpeg
<--- wrong battery chemistry

ICR (Li-Ion) batteries have been obsolete for personal vaporizors for a couple of years now, because of the higher energy demands (amps CDR) of today's devices. Your battery only has 3 - 4 amps CDR.

You need an IMR or INR battery, which have much higher amp limits (20 - 30 amps continuous discharge rate).

sam-18650green-2.jpg
<--- correct chemistry

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 1
  • For those who want to learn the differences between IMR, IMR/hybrid, ICR, and LiPo batteries. What do those numbers and letters on batteries mean? What's an amp rating and why is it more important than the mAh rating when choosing a battery for vaping?
Battery Basics for Mods: The Definative Battery Guide for Vaping
  • A popular and essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
 
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Bunnykiller

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VTRs do have the capacity to get the switch stuck on.... the button will lodge into the on position and stay there making the atty hot as all gitout.... since it is a regulated mod, the battery will just run down as it supplies the load with current....

make sure the switch isnt stuck... double click it when putting it down....
 
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