Joye eGo Mega XL and airflow

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brokenbrains

Full Member
Aug 8, 2010
40
6
Wa
When I rebuild ego mega b atties, I leave out the piece of mesh that runs underneath the cup and covers the air hole. Leaving it out increaces airflow and reduces gurgling.

In theory, you should be able to achieve the same effect (without rebuilding) by running a needle up through the center hole in the connector until it punctures the mesh. Too far and you'll damage the coil. I've never tried it, though.
 
When I rebuild ego mega b atties, I leave out the piece of mesh that runs underneath the cup and covers the air hole. Leaving it out increaces airflow and reduces gurgling.

In theory, you should be able to achieve the same effect (without rebuilding) by running a needle up through the center hole in the connector until it punctures the mesh. Too far and you'll damage the coil. I've never tried it, though.

Thanks. can you give any tips on how to take apart the atty in order to get to the mesh?
 

brokenbrains

Full Member
Aug 8, 2010
40
6
Wa
Essentially, you have to heat and break the adhesives holding everything together, then push the atty guts out the bottom of the cylinder (where the cart goes).

To heat it, I use a (clean!) soldering iron. I keep it pressed on the battery connector and/or the cylinder wall for a while. I haven't tried boiling it yet, but probably will the next time.

To push it out, I hammer on a brass rod held against the battery connector. The diameter of the brass rod is the same as the battery connector. You could also use a brass screw, so long as the head is flat and large enough.

The heat usually doesn't break all the adhesive right away, so it's 'heat, tap, repeat' until it breaks free completely. Then it slides out the cylinder easily.
 
Essentially, you have to heat and break the adhesives holding everything together, then push the atty guts out the bottom of the cylinder (where the cart goes).

To heat it, I use a (clean!) soldering iron. I keep it pressed on the battery connector and/or the cylinder wall for a while. I haven't tried boiling it yet, but probably will the next time.

To push it out, I hammer on a brass rod held against the battery connector. The diameter of the brass rod is the same as the battery connector. You could also use a brass screw, so long as the head is flat and large enough.

The heat usually doesn't break all the adhesive right away, so it's 'heat, tap, repeat' until it breaks free completely. Then it slides out the cylinder easily.

Thank you so much for your post. Unfortunately I just don't have the equipment or confidence to undertake this at this point. Until then, after a hard lesson about breaking LR atomizers in and two burnt out 306 LR atomizers, I've found that the 306 LR atomizers offer exactly what I'm looking for when it comes to pull.
 

Rickajho

ECF Guru
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Apr 23, 2011
11,841
21,763
Boston MA
Are you talking about on a Cartomizer or an Atomizer?

Atty - but different. You know with a regular Joye eGo the 510 type atty and cover are two separate screw on pieces? With the Mega the atty and it's own cover are fused into a single part.

Mine just arrived. I'm hoping not to be disappointed, but... :(

For the OP: Use the google search on the site. I grazed a bit and found several threads regarding the Mega.
 

Bdbodger

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Mar 27, 2011
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North Vancouver BC Canada
I find you have to use a lot of primer puffs when the cartridge gets below half full . I must say though it produces a good amount of vapor if you don't mind the hassle of primer puffs . Also don't fill it all the way it tends to flood although I tip it level when it does that so the eliquid is at one side of the atty and not flooding the coil . Don't over do it though to avoid eliquid in your mouth . I use the type B cylinder style not the cone shaped one .
 
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