Just got my first mech mod, just wanted to check a few things

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Mrez

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Hey all,

Due to the failure of my Cloupor DNA30 last night, I ended up pulling the trigger on a Hcigar Nemi clone from my local B&M (who heard an earfull about the failed device). Sadly their main mech person that I normally BS with wasn't there, but the help that I got was decent and fairly knowledgeable. She set me up with a Hcigar Nemi (a mod that I always found attractive was probably going to get down the line anyway). I've been rebuilding my coils on a kayfun for a few months, and building coils for a handful of drippers that recently picked up with great success and satisfaction. After dabbling with some slight subohm builds on the DNA30 I just found it preformed better at the 1 - 1.4 range, pushing 20-25 watts.

Anyrate, I took the Nemi home, since i was probably a few months out from getting a mech anyway, and started building up coils. I have and regularly was checking my builds with an ohm reader, I used steam engine to figure a .6-.8 ohm build would get me close to where I was on the DNA 30. (steam is telling me at the above ohms i'm pulling 22-29 watts and 5 to 7 amps. I have a pair of authentic Sony XTC4s that I am currently using, with plans to get XTC5s or AW 18650's. I also use a XTAR intelli charger and take the batteries off as soon as they are done charging. I also plan on ordering a multimeter to keep track of my battery voltage during use. The sony's are rated at 10 amps continuous with a 30 amp max ( if i am understanding that correctly) so it seems like I am well with n the safe range, and I don;t hit 10 amps until i start going lower then .5 ohms on a build. So based on that, does it seem like I'm on the right track?

Lastly, there were a few questions I had about mech mod behavior. I notice the section where the center pin is housed and the atty itself seems to get pretty warm. I pulled the battery out of concern, but the battery was cool, as was the tube. Is this typical? How will I know if I have problem (prior to it blowing my hand off?) Also is there alot of jiggering involve with adjusting the center pin, or fire button height in order to get the atty to fire? I'm used to the clouper (and befoe that Vamo) firing pretty much everything with no muss or fuss. Lastly, even at the ranges I described above the hits off my atty's seem not as sharp or strong and from checking the coils while i was building them, they seem to be a bit sluggish in lighting up. Are there adjustments that I need to make to get a faster hotter response time or is that just the nature of the beast compared to the DNA 30 devices?

I had always wanted a mech as soon as I saw them because they are attractive (even my wife who hates the vaping, and despised my box mod admitted that the nemi was nice looking), and the form factor is very appealing, not to mention the flavors and clouds were described as second to none. So it was going to happen eventually, I am just not certain if I jumped the gun (innate worry wort).
 

crxess

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Okay, you keep saying Nemi(14500), but I assume you mean Nemesis(18650)
First, if you are not using a Kick, Remove the thinnest ring(beauty ring) and store it.
Tighten the Button contact pin securely and keep it tight.

Always Remove your top cap ans attach your atomizer.
Set the Atty Flush
Adjust the center contact pin as needed
Install the top cap

Heat is normal - you are Vaporizing(cooking)
Warm Mod is okay in heavy use
Hot Mod is a bad sign

Wipe your pins regularly with alcohol, weekly or so for good contact. Air born contamination wrecks contact function.

Enjoy your new Mech Mod.:)
 

Mrez

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Yes, thanks for the correction, its a nemesis clone. I didn't realize putting the atty on the top cap first, then adjust the center pin was the way to go. That might help the issue ive been having with changing atty's back and forth. Some fire, some don't and then it requires a bunch of fiddling with. The mod body itself never got hot. Just the top cap. Still having issues with getting my drippers to fire quickly...they are kinda sluggish compare to the kayfun. I'm assuming that has to do with splitting the same current through to coils? Do I need to drop my resistance further below .6ish .7?
 

nynvolt

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Still having issues with getting my drippers to fire quickly...they are kinda sluggish compare to the kayfun

Depending on guage and wraps they can take longer. I did a 24g 10 wrap set of dual coils and they were slow to heat. You can either go with higher guage or lower ohm/less wraps. I suggest trying higher guage (thinner) wire. Keep an eye on the amps you'll be pulling. No need to ruin your batteries or cause them to vent.
 

crxess

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3 things Slow coil heating

Wick saturation
Wire Thickness - thicker is slower 26ga is much slower than 28ga./etc.
Battery quality - High Discharge is highly recommended. Sony VTC5 - MNKE - any one with 20,30,35 amp continuous rating.

You have to wrap to what pleases you. I enjoy most of my RDA's at .5ohm to 1.2ohm and build with 28ga.
 

Mrez

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Thanks for the suggestions all. I think it was definitely the single coil at 1.6 ohms with 26 gauge kanthal. I just did a tobh atty with a .65 build that seems to have settle at .7 ohms. It's dual coil, 7 wraps around 3/32 (2.38 mm) and it is firing up pretty quickly and was drawing smooth on one of my milder juices. Seems as responsive as the .8 kayfun build. I think I might redo it with an extra wrap per coil just to be on the safe side.

I have Sony VTC4's and only drawing 6 amps if I'm using the ohms calc correctly (based on fully charged battery) so I should be in the safe range. I also just picked up a multimeter today to play things really safe. So again, thank you gentlemen, it's appreciated.
 
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