Just wrapped a Bottom Feeding Reomizer v2 in under 10 minutes.-Progress

[niczgreat]

It used to take me an hour and 1/2 to rebuild an Atty.

Hurrray!
I just did my rebuild in under 10 minutes. Guess Standardization is the Key.
Came out exactly where I wanted it to 4 wraps of .28 Gauge Kanthal .75 Ohm, I'm vaping it on my VV Bogger Box at 20 Watts amazing vape.

I use the FC-2000 Porous Ceramic wick and have 3 Reomizer V2 Bottom Feedin rba the Ohms are precise because
the Porous Ceramic is always the same size.

From Memory
I do 4 Visible Wraps

29 Gauge is .95 Ohm
28 Gauge is .75 Ohm
27 Gauge is .64 Ohm
26 Gauge is .53 Ohm

To those who are new I'll show you what I used in the Wrap


1. Micro Screwdriver Philips and flat
Bought an eyeglass repair kit at the dollar store. Works tremendous


2. Bead Pliers bought at Michaels works great to tighten and manipulate wires
Cost a whopping $7.00 and I thought it would be a waste but turned out to be
really nifty.


3. My Mvp which has been relegated to status of RBA Holder. It holds the RBA upright while I play around with it


4. Most important a strong set of Toe Nail Clippers for cutting the wires. Nothing works as well as these.


5. Ohms Tester - Practice safe RBA ing always put on a Ohms Tester or a Multimeter and make sure you don't have any shorts. Shorts are very BAAAD.


6. Temco Kanthal 28 Gauge for this build. Buy directly from Temco 25 feet for around $5.00 directly from Temco Click Here
Sorry they will only allow 5 Photos

7. Reomizer V2 best bottom feeding RBA on the market [Arguably]

8. FC-2000 Porous Ceramic Wick bought at Tank Ecigs Click Here
Looks expensive but when you consider that the wicks last for months. I've been using the same ones for at least 4 months and also that you get around 3 wicks per stick or 9 wicks, that $25.00 should last over a year

I highly recommend the FC-2000 Porous Ceramic Wicks because they are a hard surface. You can wrap the coils very tight and if loose you can use a mini pliers to tighten them up. They aren't quite as absorbent as Braided Ceramic Wick XC-116 but they have no taste and don't mute the flavor. I also learned from a berry flavor that the XC-116 I couldn't get the berry flavor out, but the FC-2000 has never retained a flavor. You can also torch it clean or dry burn until it's cherry red!

9. Not used in this build. Whenever I go below 27 Gauge I use a blowtorch. Bought at Home Depot. They only carry one brand. And the refill gas works!

 

[turbocad6]

sounds good, thanks for the links, finally found a place that takes paypal for kanthal so I ordered a 25" roll of flat in each size, should be set for a while with 150' of kanthal ribbon coming now

thinking of trying the ceramic wicks, only used 500 SS mesh so far, but with ceramic I think I need a better head, mine is so tight and hard to remove, I think I'd snap it half the times I pull the cap off. I imagine it wicks very well to work well at 20 watts, how would you compare the ceramic wick to a SS mesh? is the head of the reomizer atty easy to remove the head with little chance of snapping the ceramic?

 

[niczgreat]

Turbocad6 Great Questions!
They have a thread that is thousands long on the porous ceramic wick but too much information that doesn't pertain to a Reomizer v2 user. Happy to be helpful, this is my opinion based on my use.

FC-2000 Wick in my opinion blows the SS away. No Dry Hits. Clean flavor no muting. If you forget to squonk, the Kanthal may burn but the Porous wick never, whereas with SS you get a nasty vaporized steel hit. For the Reo you cut the wick down to around 1/4 - 3/8 of a inch. [never measured it] the wick is 1/8 Inch circumference. It is strong as heck at the small length needed for the Reomizer 2.

I should mention that my experience is limited I haven't tried any other brand except the one sold by TankECigs because they claim " NOTE that these wicks are fired at over 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.". I'm a believer in paying a little more to get a product that is already treated. Shows that the seller feels a responsibility towards the health of the purchaser. I can only vouch for the wicks from Tank E Cigs.

The stories you hear about Porous Ceramic being fragile is usually on Genesis Style where the Full length of around 1 inch of the wick is used and the point that it goes through the hole is a torsion [hope that's the right term]or extreme stress point .

Also there is confusion because there is also a smaller circumference available [Most places discontinued it] tha has a reputation for extremely fragility. I have taken my Bead Pliers and pulledvery Very Hard on the end of wire through the hole in posts, to take out any extra slack [if I've rolled it loose] and never had a wick snap.

It does take a little time to break in the wick and I've found the more time I use the wick the better it gets. I just dry burn it every once in awhile. You can dry burn it and make it red hot and it will not burn!

I think that it may not wick as well as the stainless or the braided ceramic but on a bottom feeding APV that doesn't matter.

I put my DNA20D up to it's max of 20 Watts and 4.35V, I did a strong squonk making sure the wick is saturated [but not flooded] and took a 15 second continuous Vape [Timed] no Burning taste, Good Flavor.

The wicks come in long strips so it's up to you to cut the wick precisely so that it fits in the REO without sticking out and getting in the way of screwing on and off the top.

I'm on a wick that's been in use for at least 2-4 months. I dont' throw them out, just dry burn em and re-wrap. I have to emphasize that you need to break these wicks in for at least 2 days to a week before making a judgement.
They just keep wicking better with time.

I guess the answer is that I squonk every time I take a vape and the Ceramic Wick Works great for me.

sounds good, thanks for the links, finally found a place that takes paypal for kanthal so I ordered a 25" roll of flat in each size, should be set for a while with 150' of kanthal ribbon coming now

thinking of trying the ceramic wicks, only used 500 SS mesh so far, but with ceramic I think I need a better head, mine is so tight and hard to remove, I think I'd snap it half the times I pull the cap off. I imagine it wicks very well to work well at 20 watts, how would you compare the ceramic wick to a SS mesh? is the head of the reomizer atty easy to remove the head with little chance of snapping the ceramic?

 

[Statistic]

sounds good, thanks for the links, finally found a place that takes paypal for kanthal so I ordered a 25" roll of flat in each size, should be set for a while with 150' of kanthal ribbon coming now

thinking of trying the ceramic wicks, only used 500 SS mesh so far, but with ceramic I think I need a better head, mine is so tight and hard to remove, I think I'd snap it half the times I pull the cap off. I imagine it wicks very well to work well at 20 watts, how would you compare the ceramic wick to a SS mesh? is the head of the reomizer atty easy to remove the head with little chance of snapping the ceramic?

There is no "head" in the RM2 to remove. The ceramic in it is the base and is not removed. Also no parts that contact the ceramic base need be removed in order to rebuild or clean the atomizer. It would be very difficult to break the ceramic under "normal use conditions".

 

[turbocad6]

thanks, yeah I guess I was thinking more about trying them for the genny and that's what makes me think about snapping them, but I'll def play with it in a bottom feed or drip setup too. I just started playing with bottom feed and only have a vmod without any bottom feed rebuildable for it, I need to build something I'm also going to build something around that dna 20d chip, sounds like a great setup you've got but I'm still looking for more. I want a bullet proof stainless steel bottom feed compact setup with the dna chip, what I want no one makes so I think I'm going to build one