Kanger KBox misfiring

[Belhade]

So I've had the KBox for about a month. Really love it paired with my Protank-2. But it started misfiring - showing a short no matter how or what is mounted to it. Sometimes I can bang or shake it around and it will fire a few times, but then goes back to shorting out.

Now, looking inside the battery pin is sometimes tilted, like it's not springing back up flush. I can wiggle it around some with a pencap to get it back up, but again that is only a temporary fix. Looking deeper it appears there is a small white gasket or ring around the bottom of the pin, but it appears torn or squished over on one side. I'm wondering if this is an insulator that's been damaged. The only thing I've done is clean out the pin and threads with a Q-tip and iso alcohol. Any ideas? Or experience with Kanger warranty claims?

 

[SmoKnoMoCigZ]

i have one i got a few weeks ago and it works fine. it sounds like yours is defective. my center pin is strait and the white insulator is centered and perfectly round. did it get too hot? if not then the insulator must have been defective. keep us posted on if they stand behind their warranty.

 

[Belhade]

Kanger's website says all warranty repairs and replacements are handled by the vendors. So I took my Kbox, with box and packaging but no receipt, to the b&m store (that runs the mall kiosk) that I bought it from. The store employee looked at the device a couple of minutes, then just handed me a new one from the display. That works for me!

 

[Belhade]

Wow...that's a huge pic lol. Don't think I can resize it!

 

[Belhade]

...and now, three weeks later, this new one is doing it too. Deformed insulator, tilted battery pin. I'm still using it by popping the pin back straight, but this is getting worrisome. Maybe I'll try getting in touch with Kanger or something.

Having said that...I think I'll be getting an istick 30.

 

[Zod]

It's likely the rubber insulator inside the 510 pin that gets crushed repeatedly and wears through, creating a short. The Protank has a fairly long connector which I know will smash the Kbox's center pin, as I've screwed my old Protank on to test and it contacts FAR before the tank is fully seated. Not an ideal pairing as this is guaranteed to compress the spring then go on to crush the rubber insulator making the metal edge of the 510 base cut through the rubber. The only solution to prevent this would be for Kanger to produce a hard peak insulator which is doubtful as the Kbox was designed for the Subtank which has a more standard length connector. To fix the Kbox is fairly easy but you'll have reoccurring issues with the Protank. Instructions I used are as follows:

1. Unscrew the 2 screws holding in the top deck. Lift the deck out taking care to not rip the wires away.
2. Carefully push the entire spring loaded center pin and wire out through the connector and remove the pieces of the old white insulator.
3. Work a replacement insulator (The insulator from a Subtank head works perfectly) over and past the positive spring loaded pin and seat it down into the connector.
4. Work the wire and the positive pin into the insulator and replace the screws holding the top deck in place. Carefully screwing a tank/atty on should help to seat the pin correctly.
5. Vape on...

In the end I'd replace the Protank vs the Kbox, maybe for a Subtank nano if you like the M2L hits. I have all 3 Subtanks and the Nano's capacity is plenty big for mouth to lung hits. (About the same as the Protank)