Kanger Protank 3 stopped working after cleaning - one week old

[GeodeathiC]

I cleaned it with a dry q-tip and reassembled it. What could I have done wrong? It's a week old and was working fine. It's one an I-Taste vv.

I read about some "pin" but I don't know what exactly they mean. Is it that little piece in the protank that slides out freely? I tried to pull it out .5-1mm and it started reading .0 resistance when before it was merely saying NON as in nothing attached. Any advice would be much appreciated!


I have rip-off protanks (non-mini) and they're working, but only taste good at the lowest setting for everything.

 

[Katya]

What did you clean with a q-tip? The tank? The tank needs to be rinsed under hot water--nothing else. Do you mean the coil? The coil needs to be rinsed (or soaked in PGA or vodka), opened, and gently dry-burned.

I have a feeling that you may have dislodged the heating coil while you were poking it with a dry q-tip... Try another coil.

 

[Harlen]

Yep
Now I just rinse them

 

[edyle]

I cleaned it with a dry q-tip and reassembled it. What could I have done wrong? It's a week old and was working fine. It's one an I-Taste vv.

I read about some "pin" but I don't know what exactly they mean. Is it that little piece in the protank that slides out freely? I tried to pull it out .5-1mm and it started reading .0 resistance when before it was merely saying NON as in nothing attached. Any advice would be much appreciated!


I have rip-off protanks (non-mini) and they're working, but only taste good at the lowest setting for everything.

If you pulled the center pin on the replaceable coil head, you're not likely to get it back working again; you need to put in a replacement coil head.

Above image is single coil head; parts are in order of assembly.
your protank3 would come with dual coil - two coils.
In the pic the single coil itself is the 4th piece from the left - it is ohm-wire wrapped on silica wick.

 

[punishedprimate]

Kanger is the gurgle/flooding masters. Those brands of tanks are the sole reason why i switched to RTA's and RBA's (that and the obvious flavor bump). I will never buy another Kanger product. They're all garbage imo.


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[mcclintock]

Kanger-style stuff is not high power and the lower resistance coils will need the low end of your voltage range. Within those limitations, they are excellent.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

Kanger is the gurgle/flooding masters. Those brands of tanks are the sole reason why i switched to RTA's and RBA's (that and the obvious flavor bump). I will never buy another Kanger product. They're all garbage imo.


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My protank 3 gurgle/flooding issue was solved with the aero base, my aerotank v2 works well,
IMHO aerotank v2 is way better than the nautilus.


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[Treborsmug]

Kanger factory atty's are easy to rebuild and better than factory. 28 gauge, 8 wrap (1.2 ohm) organic cotton wick (fat tight twist). Works on everyone else factory atty's also.

 

[punishedprimate]

My protank 3 gurgle/flooding issue was solved with the aero base, my aerotank v2 works well,
IMHO aerotank v2 is way better than the nautilus.


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i had the pro tank 1, two protank 2's and a protank 3. they all flooded and gurgled. ive graduated to mech mods and RDA/RTA's now. Ill take my kayfun over any kanger piece of junk any day


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[prelude09]

I had the evod 2 with the new 1.8 dual coils. I tend to chain vape at times. The attys would get so hot the heat could be felt going up the tank. I went with a small upgrade the innokin gladius and I haven't had a single issue yet.

 

[Ed Kindred]

I use Kangers, I have 12, all the time. They will gurgle/flood when they get really low on juice so I fill them at about 1/3 full. I use 1.2 ohm coils, $1.50 each, and wash them assembled in really hot water every 2 weeks or so. After 2 washings I throw them out and put in a new one. Kangers don't like alot of watts/volts. I use 4 volts or less & 8 watts or less. Get big clouds, good flavor & good life out of my coils. I don't rebuild my coils. I figure I can afford a buck & a half a month for a coil.

 

[Signmaker]

Kanger is the gurgle/flooding masters. Those brands of tanks are the sole reason why i switched to RTA's and RBA's (that and the obvious flavor bump). I will never buy another Kanger product. They're all garbage imo.


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They gurgle on the dregs of juice, which is a nice warning instead of a dry hit like RTAs.

And with rebuilt coils, they can keep up respectably with most RTAs, with the perk of being able to swap coils and wicks in seconds without draining the tank. Nothing junk about that.

 

[Katya]

i had the pro tank 1, two protank 2's and a protank 3. they all flooded and gurgled. ive graduated to mech mods and RDA/RTA's now. Ill take my kayfun over any kanger piece of junk any day


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There is a learning curve with every new piece of equipment. I've been using Kanger clearos since February 2013. I had one bad coil (T3)--it just whistled and sputtered and and wouldn't wick properly. I had a few coils that didn't last long--they just went south, performance wise, pretty quickly and dry burning didn't help. Other than that, never had any problems.

A few tips that might help those who use clearomizers with replaceable coils:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/629568-evod-questions.html#post14737664

 

[Joules_Verne]

Good advice, as usual, from Katya.
I used 1xPT1, 1xPT1mini, 5xPT2's and a couple of "PT2-style" tanks from August2013 until February2014 without any hassles.
As mentioned previously, they don't like Volts/Watts turned up too high.
A good tip I picked up from another member 'crxess' was when flooding/gurgling, remove tank from battery,
place finger tip over 510 connecter to seal it, place drip-tip between lips, turn your head up until you are looking at the sky and blow through drip-tip a couple of times then wipe out driptip and 510 connection, return to tank and
HTH

 

[GeodeathiC]

If you pulled the center pin on the replaceable coil head, you're not likely to get it back working again; you need to put in a replacement coil head.

Above image is single coil head; parts are in order of assembly.
your protank3 would come with dual coil - two coils.
In the pic the single coil itself is the 4th piece from the left - it is ohm-wire wrapped on silica wick.

Thanks for the replies guys. I just bought and used a new coil. No I didn't pull it apart completely. What is that TINY piece of the far left. That's what I did.

Anyway had two kangers for a few weeks (EVOD 2 and MINI I believe) and they haven't leaked once, we'll see. I bought a bunch of knock off egos and tanks from china (uninformed then) and those are the only things that ever sucked. I guess their vivi nova copies were only semi-acceptable.

Good advice, as usual, from Katya.
I used 1xPT1, 1xPT1mini, 5xPT2's and a couple of "PT2-style" tanks from August2013 until February2014 without any hassles.
As mentioned previously, they don't like Volts/Watts turned up too high.
A good tip I picked up from another member 'crxess' was when flooding/gurgling, remove tank from battery,
place finger tip over 510 connecter to seal it, place drip-tip between lips, turn your head up until you are looking at the sky and blow through drip-tip a couple of times then wipe out driptip and 510 connection, return to tank and
HTH

You mean unscrew tank
Put finger over bottom connection and then blow through the main tip?

 

[ckquatt]

That holds the positive lead of the coil in place. If you pulled it out or messed with it you probably dislodged the lead and now it's not making contact with the positive pin on the battery.

Just put in a new atty.

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[wheelie]

Kanger is the gurgle/flooding masters. Those brands of tanks are the sole reason why i switched to RTA's and RBA's (that and the obvious flavor bump). I will never buy another Kanger product. They're all garbage imo.


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I have all authentics 6 kanger protank's 2 and 3's and 5 Protank mini's and they are the most trouble free tanks made. I have a lot of different tanks. Were you buying knock offs from FastTech? As you can not call them Kanger Protanks.