kanger sub tank early dry hits ?

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eesti

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Apr 10, 2015
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hi kind folks and experts!

i need someones help explaining the kanger subtank to me? am i doing something wrong.

i have the 0.5 ohm resistance coils in there (first off the box reads them at 0.7 so im already unhappy) which are premade (not rebuildables)

well i get dry hits after like 2 seconds of holding the fire button down,, this is my second coil im on- the first one that came screwed into the tank originally i was able to hold down for like 7 seconds before the dry hits started... this one that i screwed in myself starts tasting yucky if i hold it for mroe than 2 seconds (which is obv very frustrating and limits cloud production)

it is subtank plus and i use it at 20W
 

nyiddle

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hi kind folks and experts!

i need someones help explaining the kanger subtank to me? am i doing something wrong.

i have the 0.5 ohm resistance coils in there (first off the box reads them at 0.7 so im already unhappy) which are premade (not rebuildables)

well i get dry hits after like 2 seconds of holding the fire button down,, this is my second coil im on- the first one that came screwed into the tank originally i was able to hold down for like 7 seconds before the dry hits started... this one that i screwed in myself starts tasting yucky if i hold it for mroe than 2 seconds (which is obv very frustrating and limits cloud production)

it is subtank plus and i use it at 20W

Sounds like you're using the 1 (or 1.2?) ohm coil that comes in the box.

The spare coil that comes with the Subtank is not .5 ohms. It says on the actual head what the ohms are.
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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Hi eesti. I have a few of the Subtank Mini's and love them. ALL of the coils are rebuildable. (Check Youtube for videos) As to the dry hits it is important to properly saturate the wick prior to taking a pull on the subtank. (4 drops on top of the OCC wick, 1 on each side where the cotton shows, plus first draw a light one.

I use my 1.2 ohm coils from 15 to 18 Watts. I've been so content there I don't use the .5 yet. I've heard of some people getting a bad batch of OCC coils and that could be the case.

If you are using high VG juice the coil will not wick as fast because VG is much thicker than PG. This could also give dry hits. Wishin you the best.
 

eesti

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Apr 10, 2015
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Boston, MA, USA
Sounds like you're using the 1 (or 1.2?) ohm coil that comes in the box.

The spare coil that comes with the Subtank is not .5 ohms. It says on the actual head what the ohms are.

the spare is 1.2 u are correct. i have not used the spare and put a second 0.5 ohm coil in that came in the pack of 5 replaceables that i ordered
 
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nyiddle

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the spare is 1.2 u are correct. i have not used the spare and put a second 0.5 ohm coil in that came in the pack of 5 replaceables that i ordered

Have you tried out @Sir2fyablyNutz's suggestions? It's definitely important to prime the OCC head/let the e-juice soak into the wick for a few minutes before you try hitting it.

Also, once the cotton is burnt, that's it. You'll never get that burnt taste out of it.
 

Jode

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Sir2 hit on pretty much all the good advice to try. The only thing I might add is to give the coil a chance to absorb on its own for about 15 mins or a bit more too before you take that primer hit (no button pushed). When I first started using them I put the drips on the top of the coil as suggested in little booklet but I didn't dab the sides and that actually makes a difference. Once you do that first tank though it will be instant for follow up tanks till head needs changing again. Don't get frustrated please. They are great tanks!!!
 

dhood

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Have you tried out @Sir2fyablyNutz's suggestions? It's definitely important to prime the OCC head/let the e-juice soak into the wick for a few minutes before you try hitting it.

Also, once the cotton is burnt, that's it. You'll never get that burnt taste out of it.

I have a tendency to put drops on the top of the coil until I see the cotton in the juice feed window start to change color. Then I put a drop on each of the windows and screw it in. You may also want to take a needle and poke into the cotton in the feed window to help it wick better. I also start the wattage low (around 13 watts) and then turn it up slowly to get it to start the wicking process and warm up the coil itself.
 
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eesti

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Apr 10, 2015
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Boston, MA, USA
these are all great tips! thank you very much, i was only ptutin drops on top of the OCC (not on the sides) as @Jode said.

@Sir2fyablyNutz thanks for the advice....what if i told you that it was hitting fine during the first day...and only started tasting burnt (after 2 secs) on the second day...that would suggest the cotton was wet enough.

could it be defective coils? could it also be that i overburnt it once (maybe held down 10 secs without realizing...) and now i cant get the taste out as @nyiddle suggested this one is a lost cause. better to not vape at all and throw this one out then vape with a 2 sec firing limit :(

could i jsut change the cotton and leave the coil (i think its still fine) i know im cheap but im trying to save all the $3 that i can because once i switched to the kanger subtank i am burning through juice like craaaaazy!!! and its getting expensive
 

nyiddle

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could i jsut change the cotton and leave the coil (i think its still fine) i know im cheap but im trying to save all the $3 that i can because once i switched to the kanger subtank i am burning through juice like craaaaazy!!! and its getting expensive

Yep! You can totally do that, and it's pretty gosh-darn easy assuming you have some cotton on-hand.

This dude's a bit nutty, but this should explain it pretty well (there are a bunch of other ones too).

 

Jode

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Ya just change the cotton. I did a silly thing the other day and the same may have happened to you. I had grabbed my vape and a couple of back ups for a long drive. I picked up one of my vapes shortly into the trip and took a good long deep pull on it and ECH!!!!! I was coughing so hard I had to pull off highway for a minute. That is when I noticed that as I had my vapes bunched in my hand I was pushing the increase wattage button and had my 1.2 kanger head on that particular mod that was now pushed up to 50watts. Let me tell you, it was one of the grossest things. So that back up was all but ruined till the trip was over and I could change the head. I know you said you vape on a mech so this is probably not the cause for you but I had to tell my story hahaha. If your trying to conserve funds, change cotton out and try again. Good luck!!
 
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Dom

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I got the subtank mini and the best wicking method i found is the pancake method. Rip Tripper has some good vid's on youtube. After a few weeks i gave up and bought the Lemo2. Not one dry hit. Its only rebuildable but thats fine w/ me cause i dont want to spend the money. I think the holes on subtank that feed the juice are too small. For five bucks they can keep the replaceable ones. I have watched a vid on how to modify and drill it out but never tried. It makes a good back up tank.
 

Jode

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whats a "mech" @Jode ? i got an mvp 3.0 as the battery base- still new to this

I apologize..... I was mixing this up with another post where the OP stated they were using a mech mod (basically a tube for batteries where they would not be able to adjust wattage). I have the MVP 2.0 and the MVP 20 watt, but not the 3.0 so I am unsure how easy it would be for it to get bumped up accidentally. Maybe that scenario could have happened. Before I fire my vapes now I always check the wattage to make sure it didn't get bumped up too high. Burnt nasty dry hits are almost as gross as smoking analogs.
 
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