kanger subox mini major disappointment

[bobg01]

I have been vaping for about a month now. I started with a nautilus mini on a spinner battery. After one week of that I was already set to make the jump to sub ohm vaping. After doing a bit of research ( obviously not enough). I went to my local shop and bought the white subox kit. I wanted something with RBA capabilities but could use factory coils too to start with. I can't sing enough praises for that tank. The OCC coils should be pitched because the RBA is where the flavor is at. The deck is easy to build on and I love the flavor and clouds I get from my .3-.4 ohm 24 ga kanthal coils I have been building. The mod is another story. It broke 3 weeks to the day I got it. I started out yesterday sub ohming half a tank with no problems. Then I went hiking and decided to switch to the nautilus tank. I got through half a tank and then it stopped working. I figured I got a bad coil since I had just replaced it. The box was reading 9.9 ohms. Still thinking it was a bad coil I switched back to the subtank when I got home. Same thing. 9.9 ohms. First thing I did was clean all contacts with iso. There was a lot of dirt, but when I tried to fire it up, still 9.9. I even checked to make sure I didn't get sold a clone. I powered it off and took out the battery in hopes that it would reset. No luck. So I took to the internet (that's how I found this forum) and apparently this is not uncommon. The 510 pin on the mod is fixed and there is a risk that it can get pushed down causing the error. I even read where someone got the 9.9 error out of the box but tried a subtank from a different kit and it worked. I tried 4 tanks on it and 9.9 with all. All builds were good since the tanks all fired on other batteries. I took it back to the shop today and they would not exchange it because it was used. They instead offered me a discount on a replacement. I settled on an iStick 100w. They wanted $60 for it and I talked them down to $45, so I'm pretty happy with that since that isn't too far off from online prices. I normally vape between 25 and 30 watts on the subox so I fired up the I Stick at 29 and it delivers, in my mind, much better than the kbox. Hope I have better luck with this mod. I still love the tank and plan to buy a spare, but the mod that came with the kit was a let down. Too bad, because up until yesterday I absolutely loved everything about it. Funny thing was that I specifically asked the guy at the shop if I could use my nautilus mini on it and he said I could use anything with a 510 thread. So if you have the kit or are still considering buying it, don't use anything but the subtank mini on it or you could ruin it. So my advice to any newbie getting into subohming; get the subtank mini, but DON'T get the kit. Do yourself a favor and get a mod with a spring loaded 510 pin.

 

[angie124]

I read somewhere that they are bringing out a new one with it spring loaded so you can use different tanks on it

 

[Wruff]

Sounds like your pin is depressed (no springloaded pin). Use a small standard screw driver to gently pry that pin up. Mine does that a lot when I switch tanks. Yes, Kanger needs to put springloaded pins in these mods, and I won't buy another until they do.
Your mod's not broken though. Just gently pry that pin up a few mm's.

See this short video -

 

[WillieB69]

I would contact Kanger directly and see if they will do anything for you. They should at least tell you the same thing @Wruff said or offer you a replacement. I don't think I'd be going back to that shop again though.

 

[bobg01]

Thanks for the video. Unfortunately no luck there. I tried pulling it up just a bit like the video said to and still got 9.9 ohms. Next I pulled it up as much as I dared to the point where I knew there would be interference between the pins and it still didn't work.
Maybe I just got a bad unit or maybe the mod does make a difference, but I have only had the I Stick for a few hours and I swear this thing is better than the kbox ever was at the same wattage. I have been running coils that are close to the .3 ohm limit on the kbox and when I dry fired them it took a good five seconds for them to glow. When vaping it would be several second after hitting the button before I started to get vapor. The new box gives me vapor as soon as I hit the button and I swear I am getting bigger clouds on the exact same build.

 

[disallowedword]

The isticks are great!
Read a review a while back where the reviewer said "the istick 100w just doesn’t feel substantial in the hand" That made me laugh! Then I saw some positive reviews of istick 100's (with batteries installed) and bought one, lol.

 

[Wruff]

Thanks for the video. Unfortunately no luck there. I tried pulling it up just a bit like the video said to and still got 9.9 ohms. Next I pulled it up as much as I dared to the point where I knew there would be interference between the pins and it still didn't work.
Maybe I just got a bad unit or maybe the mod does make a difference, but I have only had the I Stick for a few hours and I swear this thing is better than the kbox ever was at the same wattage. I have been running coils that are close to the .3 ohm limit on the kbox and when I dry fired them it took a good five seconds for them to glow. When vaping it would be several second after hitting the button before I started to get vapor. The new box gives me vapor as soon as I hit the button and I swear I am getting bigger clouds on the exact same build.

Sorry to hear the pin pry wasn't the fix.
Yeah, I was really noticing today too that at same wattage my Ipv Mini v2's got a lot more punch than my subox mod. The smok TFv4 tank with dual coils runs much better on the IPV than on the subox mod.