Kanger Subtank 510 Pin Problem

[ChrisCanal]

I got this same problem with 25mm model in rta mode.
In my case, the problem was caused by improper contact of the rta section to the 510 connection at the base section.
Solved with a diy ring, put at the rta section to secure the connection.

View attachment 406630

I wanted to thank you for posting this. Since i got my subtank mini, i have had ohm readings all over the place. I tried OCC heads, both NI-200 and kanthal, and countless builds on the RBA deck. I took the ENTIRE tank apart (almost lost that tiny little BB), and nothing was working. Drove me absolutely nuts, as the only way i could get it to register accurately was if i used a 510-EGO adapter, so i knew it was something with the 510 pin. I finally saw your post, tried it, and it has been rock solid ever since. Thank you so much, and hopefully this will help others as well.

 

[craiglester]

I had the same thing.. RTA was reading ~ .125 ohms.. hitting fine, then overnight...it's reading 1.7 ohms., TC switching off on my Hana Modz clone and just plain wacky behaviour from the mod. Checked the RTA connection to the airflow base, and it was loose. One quick tighten, and all is back to normal!

Now it's the first thing I check.

 

[Fit_Four_Life]

E-Leaf mod 20 & 30w cant read this tank . sad

Why can't the newer 30 watts? They sub ohm

My eleaf 20w mod reads the kanger subtank mini. I'm using it with the RBA deck built with 1.2 Ω coils.

 

[NealBJr]

One thing I would check.. first, is the center pin flush with the 510 screws? If it is, I took the base off and any atomizers, and I ground down the 510 threads so the center pin was sticking out of the threads.

 

[AngryCagen]

I got this same problem with 25mm model in RTA mode.
In my case, the problem was caused by improper contact of the RTA section to the 510 connection at the base section.
Solved with a diy ring, put at the RTA section to secure the connection.

View attachment 406630

I wanted to thank you for the tip. I didn't know what was going on. Everything was connected perfect, the builds were perfect and then I checked here and I used your little tip. I actually just used a piece of 26 g kanthal exactly where you have in the photo and IT WORKED! The DNA 30 kept saying "Check Atomizer" so many times I really didn't expect for that to work. Was there supposed to be a metal ring at that location in the package out of box? Either way, thanks for the awesome tip! Worked like a charm!

 

[Danny55]

I got this same problem with 25mm model in RTA mode.
In my case, the problem was caused by improper contact of the RTA section to the 510 connection at the base section.
Solved with a diy ring, put at the RTA section to secure the connection.

View attachment 406630

Hi. I've just bought a subtank mini which I was told is the V2, but my RBA desk doesn't fire and my mod says check atomiser. I don't have any DIY rings but I suppose I could wrap kanthal. I'm not clear on what you did here, I wonder if you might kindly help me.

I presume I need to extend the pin with the airholes at the end of my RBA desk and then put a DIY ring or wrap some kanthal around it? But I can't seem to pull it out.
http://s2.postimg.org/5cn4vsveh/pin.jpg

 

[Pieman6987]

Great read everyone I also had the same issue which is now fixed

 

[Halifornia]

Been dealing with this exact problem on my setup. Kanger subtank mini with a KBox, and 0.5 ohm coil.

Symptoms:

• Ohm reading bounces all over the place, up to 9.9 (often stabilizes at 9.9 and starts flashing)
• Turning the air flow ring causes the ohm reading to jump around
• Pressing the KBox and the tank together drops the ohm reading to 0.6 or 0.7
• Putting side pressure on the tank drops the ohm reading to 0.6 or 0.7

As someone else here stated, the base unit might not be screwed completely together. Using adjustable pliers and a vise grip, I was able to grip the grooved ring (below the airflow ring) and the VERY tiny metal lip above the airflow ring, and tighten these. These only tightened about 1/8 of a turn (perhaps even less), but now the ohm reading has stabilized at EXACTLY 0.5 ohms, and doesn't deviate.

I'm guessing some base units weren't assembled to the proper tolerances at the factory. See the attached image for the two areas you'll need to grip and tighten (arrows indicate the two rings to tighten). Unfortunately tightening these will almost certainly result in stripping off some of the anodizing. My black tank now has some very obvious areas where plain steel is showing. Might be able to mitigate this by wrapping your tools with some electrical tape, but I wasn't concerned as my tank is already a bit banged up from being dropped.

 

[djslash]

After some closer inspection I saw the problem was that the airflow control valve had become slightly loose. Just enough that it could shift up and down by maybe half a mm. I grabbed some vice grips and channel locks and started twisting, hoping something would tighten. Turns out the base (side with 510) screws into the piece that screws into the tank. There isn't much of a lip to grab onto on the top half so be careful if you attempt the same fix; I got a little overzealous and ended up slipping the channel locks onto the threaded section....Now I'll be needing those channel locks every time I take the tank off/on lol

Anyway, this seems to have fixed the problem. Resistance of a coil I just made is reading at a steady 0.7

Hi m8.
MANY MANY thx for your post. After having put my sub plus away for a loooooong time, I decided to give it a go one more time today and tried about everything on every forum I could find and........ YOU R MY SAVIOUR man, i was to the point of throwing that thing out the windows and BAM, you had the solution.
The airflow ring was indeed a bit loose like u said, so i put the tank back on it's base and tightened it with the tank.
Ring back in place, and Aty works again.
U DA MAN!!!!!

 

[notspace]

I can confirm the fix for the wandering ohms issue is to disassemble the base clean it well and reassemble.

I tried the shim trick and it appeared to resolve the issue briefly however i quickly discovered it actually didn't.

After taking the base apart and cleaning all of the compound that was used as threadlocker out and reassembling holding strong at 0.5 ohms.. I'm sure i will need to put some more sealant in there though.