Closed/Sold Kanger Subtank stuffs
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I have STM parts. 2 pkgs of 4 rba screws ea/coils/blue screwdrivers (you must take the screwdrivers, I'm sure no one has enough of them lol), a couple bases, 4 rbas, many o-ring sets and some plastic bell caps. Also an unused Top Tank. PM me if you want any of the stuff.
Which subtank?
-Subtank (original)
-Subtank Plus
-Subtank Mini
-Subtank Nano
Inquiring minds want to know.
-Subtank (original)
-Subtank Plus
-Subtank Mini
-Subtank Nano
Inquiring minds want to know.
So it seems I'm crap at taking care of my own wants ads. Sorry folks. I've already responded to a couple of you wonderful folks, I'll be sending a message to the rest of you helpful people. Let's see if I remember how to "subscribe" to this thread so maybe I won't be such a slacker...
Edit: Since I can't edit my OP, I'll add some info here. I'm really only in need of the RBA base coil trap screws. The little guys that hold the coil to the RBA. But I'll buy whatever anyone has just to get the little screws. Provided the price is reasonable of course. I can buy the whole RBA base from Fasttech for $7, but I don't really want to spend $7 each for 2 screws.
Or if anyone has a lead on a vendor that might have those screws, that would be the tops. I found all the appropriate dimensions for the screws. And I've ordered some from 3 different vendors online, but they've all 3 been wrong. The heads of the screw is just a little too big to clear the chimney.
Edit Pt.2: Here's the exact information on the screws if anyone finds a vendor that has them, I'd be forever in your debt. I don't care of the heads of them are Phillips, Common, Torx, Allen whatever. Just so long as they work.
Thread Size: M2
Thread Pitch: 0.4
Threaded Length: 3mm
Edit: Since I can't edit my OP, I'll add some info here. I'm really only in need of the RBA base coil trap screws. The little guys that hold the coil to the RBA. But I'll buy whatever anyone has just to get the little screws. Provided the price is reasonable of course. I can buy the whole RBA base from Fasttech for $7, but I don't really want to spend $7 each for 2 screws.
Or if anyone has a lead on a vendor that might have those screws, that would be the tops. I found all the appropriate dimensions for the screws. And I've ordered some from 3 different vendors online, but they've all 3 been wrong. The heads of the screw is just a little too big to clear the chimney.
Edit Pt.2: Here's the exact information on the screws if anyone finds a vendor that has them, I'd be forever in your debt. I don't care of the heads of them are Phillips, Common, Torx, Allen whatever. Just so long as they work.
Thread Size: M2
Thread Pitch: 0.4
Threaded Length: 3mm
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What 3 vendors did you use for the screws? I ask because after shipping it sounds like you may have already spent $7 on the screws or close to it.
You could probably still use the screws you bought if you have a small file to sand down the sides of the screw heads you bought in order to make it clear that chamber. That's what I did to a clone RBA I bought long ago on FT. Came shipped with screw heads that were too large. Ah, the joy of buying clones
You could probably still use the screws you bought if you have a small file to sand down the sides of the screw heads you bought in order to make it clear that chamber. That's what I did to a clone RBA I bought long ago on FT. Came shipped with screw heads that were too large. Ah, the joy of buying clones
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I recall trying to Find replacement Screws for the Sub/TopTank RBA section when Deeming Hit back in 2016. Finding a M2 x 3mm SS Machine Screw was Easy. Finding one with a 3mm Diameter Head, Not so Much.
So what I did was to buy some of these...
M2 x 3mm, Phillips Wafer Flat Head Screws, Nickel, Computer, Laptop, Machine | eBay
Then Chuck the Screw on the Treads in a Hand Drill, and Grind down the Head using a Piece of Sandpaper wrapped around a Popsicle Stick.
If I was you, I would just Buy the Entire RBA Section. Cause having having the O-Ring and Insulator that comes with it could come in Handy.
But if you Like to Ticker with things, doing the Drill Motor (Poor Man's Lathe) tech works.
I agree. The only reason why this RBA is still being manufactured is because it became popular again a couple years ago because it can be used on some newer AIO devices (not made by Kanger). It's only a matter of time that this RBA will be discontinued and having parts will allow you to keep using your subtanks with RBA for a little while longer.
The threads at the top of the positive post on the RBA are very thin and shear very easily rendering the RBA useless if you tighten the post even a little too much.
Having extra parts is golden.
You Pretty Much Nailed it with that Last Sentence.
Another thing I saw with Sub/TopTank Mini Clones was that the LOT (Length of Thread) for the Post Screws sometimes wasn't Tapped Deep Enough for the Head of the Screw to Bottom Out on the Deck.
So if someone used a Thin Gauge wire like 30ga (or sometimes 28ga) then the wire wouldn't get Trapped under the Head very well. And People would think that they Needed to Tighten the Screw More.
But since the Screw's Thread Body was bottomed out, tightening the Screw just Stripped the Threads in the Deck.
Chasing the Threads in the deck with a M2 Bottoming Tap usually Solves the Problem with a 3mm LOT Screw. But How Many people have a M2 Bottoming Tap laying around ( I raise my hand)? Or even think about it Before it is Too Late.
Years ago I bought some clone ST RBAs on FT with this problem. I just carefully filed down the end of the screw to make it shorter to solve that. No tap needed.
What 3 vendors did you use for the screws? I ask because after shipping it sounds like you may have already spent $7 on the screws or close to it.
You could probably still use the screws you bought if you have a small file to sand down the sides of the screw heads you bought in order to make it clear that chamber. That's what I did to a clone RBA I bought long ago on FT. Came shipped with screw heads that were too large. Ah, the joy of buying clones
I bought from 2 separate folks on eBay & one seller on Amazon. All of them had the same problem, the head was just a smidge too wide. I do have over $7 invested in my screw purchases so far, but not much more. About $12 or so. I have 5 Subtanks that I use daily, on rotation. 6 if you count the RBA deck I use in my Billet. So I'd love to find a pack of 50 screws to cover me through Armageddon.
I like everything y'all are saying about filing them down. I do love to tinker & have plenty of tools etc. to probably file them down. It's just pure laziness on my part. If it comes down to brass tacks I'll just take a weekend & see how many of them I can manage to file down.
I love how much dialogue this thread has started. Here I was thinking I was the last person still using the good 'ole Subtank. In my almost 10 years of vaping I've yet to find a tank that I can rebuild as quickly and effortlessly as the Subtank. I just love it.
You don't have to file them all down today, tomorrow or even next year. Just do a few at a time when you can. The FDA isn't going to ban the act of filing the heads of metal screws lol
What I like more than the Subtank Mini is the Protank 4. I don't care that the glass can't be replaced on the PT4, it a better looking tank and the top fill mechanism on it is the best I've ever had on any tank. And it takes the STM RBA and the SSOCC coils so it's a winner for me. Retailers in the USA were dumping them for $10 or less this past winter and I'm so glad I was able to get a few.
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