i recently ordered one, and they are great. was working awesome until i noticed that when i hit the button no vape was coming out. i then noticed above the atomizer base isnt sitting flush on the tank. one side appears to have a slight gap in it.the other side touches the base and tank. i pushed it in a bit and that got it to vape but it still isnt flush and hasnt been vaping as well as the beginning. i dropped it once and had it in my pocket with my ego-c twist, not sure if thats what did it or not. i do have another atomizer head that i havent tried on to see if it sits flush, i hope it does and its not the tank itself. is there anything i can do to get the vapor back? thank you!
Kangertech Mini T3S
- Thread starter darkhawk151
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well after posting this i thought id give it a try and put the new atomizer in, but i realized when i pulled it out i might not have to, i forgot that the base was a serpate part. so i took the one in question and unscrewed the atomizer from the head, and noticed the connection was a little lop sided. so i tried to screw it in a bit more and it went in just a bit, but just enough so that when i screwed the head back on and put the atomizer in the tank, it was sitting flush and started producing more of the vapor im used to from it. there must be an energy of diy and problem solving on this forum because is wasnt til i posted it that i figured it out. i love these kangertech cartos, they have to be some of the best, given that you can take everything apart. i couldnt do this on the generic ce4s i was buying. figuring this out makes me want to get into diy more. thanks anyways ecf! hope this can help someone. and if anyone has anything else to add i would be glad to hear any tips or tricks.
I'm sitting here staring at my KT3 mini and hating it. The base of the mini is too deep so that the head doesn't make contact with the firing pin on all of my gear. I can pry up the firing pins in some of my mods and batteries but, honestly, I'm over it.
Can I suggest the mini protank II? Yeah, it's more expensive than the plastic clearos but man, it's worth it.
Can I suggest the mini protank II? Yeah, it's more expensive than the plastic clearos but man, it's worth it.
It is much simpler to pull down the Kanger center pin slightly.
Next, stop tightening.
2 finger turn to Contact and that is it. Ant tighter pushes things around.
No, the KT3 never made contact to begin with. I had to really really pry up the firing pin to achieve any contact whatsoever. All of my other ego-threaded gear works just fine.
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