Kangertech Subtank Plus leaking

[skrymir]

Hi All,

I'm new to the forums!

I have a Kanger Subtank Plus but it seems to be leaking from the air holes at the base... is there an easy way to trouble shoot this or do I just get a bad tank? I'm using it on an eleaf istick 50w and I typically run it at 28W if that makes a difference.

I'm pretty new to sub-ohm-ing and just returned to vaping after a relapse of my actual smoking the past year or so.

Thanks in advance for any help

 

[mauricem00]

Hi All,

I'm new to the forums!

I have a Kanger Subtank Plus but it seems to be leaking from the air holes at the base... is there an easy way to trouble shoot this or do I just get a bad tank? I'm using it on an eLeaf istick 50w and I typically run it at 28W if that makes a difference.

I'm pretty new to sub-ohm-ing and just returned to vaping after a relapse of my actual smoking the past year or so.

Thanks in advance for any help

check the rubber seals at the top of the coil and around the tank. make sure the coil is screwed in tight and the seal on the bottom of the coil is good. if you rebuilt it you may not have enough wick good luck

 

[Stratsworth]

Are you using the RBA or pre-built coils? How long has the coil been seated in the base?

I experienced slight flooding in one of my ST Minis when my wattage was set too low for my RBA build (.6Ω).

28w should be good enough for the RBA or pre-built @ .5Ω, so it's probably the seals. Make sure the coil head isn't too loose as juice can escape into the base. Conversely, make sure that you don't tighten it down too hard. Over-tightening can break the seal as well.

Take out the coil, make sure that it doesn't appear to be damaged, wipe the seals clean and maybe let them sit for a few min, then re-seat in the base. If this doesn't work then it might be a damaged seal on the coil head.

 

[skrymir]

Thanks both of you. I am using a prebuilt 0.5 ohm OCC coil and I've only had it for about 2.5 weeks so I don't think it needs to be replaced. I did take it apart when it first happened and checked all the seals but I may have tightened it too tight when I put it back together (I didn't wrench it tight but a good finger tight) so I may try another coil to see if that fixes the problem.

Another quick question... can I use the 0.15 ohm coils with my eleaf mod? it says it can handle down to 0.2 (close enough?) but I read somewhere that you need a TC mod to use the 0.15 coils.

 

[Stratsworth]

Thanks both of you. I am using a prebuilt 0.5 ohm OCC coil and I've only had it for about 2.5 weeks so I don't think it needs to be replaced. I did take it apart when it first happened and checked all the seals but I may have tightened it too tight when I put it back together (I didn't wrench it tight but a good finger tight) so I may try another coil to see if that fixes the problem.

Another quick question... can I use the 0.15 ohm coils with my eleaf mod? it says it can handle down to 0.2 (close enough?) but I read somewhere that you need a TC mod to use the 0.15 coils.

If it's the Kanger Ni200 .15Ω coil then it needs to be on a TC mod. The general rule is to never use a nickel coil on a non-temperature controlled mod. Kanthal isn't recommended for TC either (you can use it on a TC mod as long as the power setting is used instead of temp mode).

You should probably replace the coil if you're coming up on 3 weeks. I use pre-built coils in a couple of my Subtanks; flooding can definitely occur past the 2 week mark, even if you're still getting decent flavor from the coil. That could very well be the culprit.

 

[mauricem00]

Thanks both of you. I am using a prebuilt 0.5 ohm OCC coil and I've only had it for about 2.5 weeks so I don't think it needs to be replaced. I did take it apart when it first happened and checked all the seals but I may have tightened it too tight when I put it back together (I didn't wrench it tight but a good finger tight) so I may try another coil to see if that fixes the problem.

Another quick question... can I use the 0.15 ohm coils with my eleaf mod? it says it can handle down to 0.2 (close enough?) but I read somewhere that you need a TC mod to use the 0.15 coils.

with most of those BCC factory coils its a good ideal to replace them after 2 weeks depending on how much juice you use in that time.the rating on those mods seem to be somewhat optimistic. you do not need a TC mod to handle 0.15 coils but a dual battery box mod or a 100-150 watt regulated mod would be much safer for coils that low.

 

[Stratsworth]

...you do not need a TC mod to handle 0.15 coils but a dual battery box mod or a 100-150 watt regulated mod would be much safer for coils that low.

The Kanger Ni200 .15Ω coils that he's referring to most definitely need a mod with temperature control.

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

with most of those BCC factory coils its a good ideal to replace them after 2 weeks depending on how much juice you use in that time.the rating on those mods seem to be somewhat optimistic. you do not need a TC mod to handle 0.15 coils but a dual battery box mod or a 100-150 watt regulated mod would be much safer for coils that low.

The only .15Ω coils they offer are nickle, so yes, you do need a TC mod to run them

 

[mauricem00]

I use N80 nickle wire on some of my tanks with a mechanical mod and have never had any problems. most BCCs(evod,gs-h2,h5. mt3s) use nickle coils. if there is a problem with the subtank coils that require the use of a TC mod to correct I am unaware of it.nichrome wire is commonly used for cutting foam using nothing more than a battery or regulated power supply to drive it.

 

[Stratsworth]

I use N80 nickle wire on some of my tanks with a mechanical mod and have never had any problems. most BCCs(evod,gs-h2,h5. mt3s) use nickle coils. if there is a problem with the subtank coils that require the use of a TC mod to correct I am unaware of it.nichrome wire is commonly used for cutting foam using nothing more than a battery or regulated power supply to drive it.

The coils OP is referring to (Kanger Ni200 1.5Ω), and comparable nickel (or titanium) coils made by Aspire, Eleaf, Joye, etc. are specifically intended for temperature control. That's not conjecture, it's right there on the packaging.

The BCC coils you're referring to, along with N80, is made with NiCr, an alloy, and not pure nickle (even though there are pure nickel BCCs intended for temp control). Pure nickel, like the nickel coils OP mentioned, should not be used in a mod without TC. Nickel, when overheated, produces stuff that I wouldn't want to inhale. Temp control keeps this in check.

 

[Wormbrnr]

Flip your bottom gasket. Don't over tighten the tank, which sounds counter intuitive I realize. Just seat it on the gasket, don't crank on it.

 

[Jim Marshall]

If all else is correct then it could be extreme temperature change. The only time mine leaked was keeping it in a hot car for about 30 minutes. Good luck in finding the fix.

 

[skrymir]

Thanks everyone! Looks like it was the coil. Noob mistake obviously... I appreciate the help!