I have a Nemesis clone with a hcigar kayfun atomizer. My kayfun clone has been giving me fits ever since I bought it. There is a small manufacturing defect on the inside of the lower chimney section. It appears to be a small raised section of metal that causes interference on the VERY tight tolerance between the chimney and the build deck. I've done my best to deal with it, but upon rebuilding tonight it nearly caused a disaster. It caused a short between the positive terminal and the chimney. A few sparks and a hot battery later, I am wondering what to do? I tried to remove the defect delicately with sandpaper and it *seems* OK now, but I am honestly scared to keep using it. Should I attempt to source a replacement chimney piece, or just scrap this thing all together? I am brand new to all this and jumped in with both feet by going with a rebuildable atomizer on a mech right off the bat. I haven't found any other mentions of the problems I am having, so I honestly don't know what to do at this point. Any advice would be appreciated!
Kayfun clone nearly killed me tonight.....need help
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certainly scraping is a viable option since it doesn't cost very much - they do sell chimneys separately for the kayfun
I have a kayfun lite clone that has functioned very well for some time - sorry to hear about your mess
My battery device MPV 2 can check the resistance of coil without firing - provides another level of safety after full assembly which I always do - other vv/vw also do this - u might consider getting such a device if u plan on continuing coil builds - never can be to safe
I have a kayfun lite clone that has functioned very well for some time - sorry to hear about your mess
My battery device MPV 2 can check the resistance of coil without firing - provides another level of safety after full assembly which I always do - other vv/vw also do this - u might consider getting such a device if u plan on continuing coil builds - never can be to safe
Only advice I can give is that you should really invest a couple bucks and get a digital multimeter. You should really be using one if you're running rebuildables on a mech. Your short could have been easily avoided, plus you can check your builds resistance and the batteries voltage.
I am no expert on this but running almost the exact same set up currently.
I am also a union sheet metal worker.
The metal chimney should be made of stainless steel (mine are anyway), and it can be worked like any other metal although harder.
If there is a burr that's shorting out it can be removed with a needle file, and buffed with red scotch brite to return a #4 finish to it.
Sounds like you know where it's arcing at.
So long as you remove enough material so that it won't short out you should be GTG IMHO.
I would check with a unwicked coil, and no juice using short pulses. You should be able to see (on disassembly) if it is arcing/ shorting out anymore.
Let's wait for someone more knowledgeable than I to chime in on this before you do anything but that's how I would proceed.
DoggieTony above has good advice that i forgot.
A multimeter is a good investment.
I am also a union sheet metal worker.
The metal chimney should be made of stainless steel (mine are anyway), and it can be worked like any other metal although harder.
If there is a burr that's shorting out it can be removed with a needle file, and buffed with red scotch brite to return a #4 finish to it.
Sounds like you know where it's arcing at.
So long as you remove enough material so that it won't short out you should be GTG IMHO.
I would check with a unwicked coil, and no juice using short pulses. You should be able to see (on disassembly) if it is arcing/ shorting out anymore.
Let's wait for someone more knowledgeable than I to chime in on this before you do anything but that's how I would proceed.
DoggieTony above has good advice that i forgot.
A multimeter is a good investment.
a picture would be awesome to be able to help you out...
but Im gonna assume that there is a thread burr on the inside of the chimney tube touching the + block. Consider using the small end of a file and break off the burr, or a wooden rod and work the burr back n forth till it snaps off ( wont mess with the threads like a file can). If the "bump" isnt a thread burr, but a short shot when milling the hole and it is a ridge, you may need to get an RMA and have the part returned for a new piece...
but Im gonna assume that there is a thread burr on the inside of the chimney tube touching the + block. Consider using the small end of a file and break off the burr, or a wooden rod and work the burr back n forth till it snaps off ( wont mess with the threads like a file can). If the "bump" isnt a thread burr, but a short shot when milling the hole and it is a ridge, you may need to get an RMA and have the part returned for a new piece...
A picture would be good, the build quality can vary so much between clones I have only been vaping for 5 months or so and when I started vaping I wanted some decent vape gear without spending £££ and bought some clones from FT Ithaka, R91/KFL, KF 3.1 and Taifun GTs all of them needed work and/or had issues. I learnt fast to check everything on arrival if it didn't look right it probably wasn't. The QA and build quality isn't to be expected at the price we get the gear for so buying tools and supplies are pretty essential to work the kit, some of it is just unworkable like the fill valve on the 3.1 i got but usually you can work something out of course YMMV.
I stopped buying clones after my experience and bought genuine 2nd user kit its alot of hassle for me to sort out and I want as little hassle as possible to keep off the analogs. My brand new SVD lasted 4 weeks before the trigger button failed.
I enjoyed working the clones i just don't have the time or space to fix stuff all the time.
I hope you get it sorted, if you can get some chimney parts to swap over I have found with vaping its essential to have spares and backups.
I stopped buying clones after my experience and bought genuine 2nd user kit its alot of hassle for me to sort out and I want as little hassle as possible to keep off the analogs. My brand new SVD lasted 4 weeks before the trigger button failed.
I enjoyed working the clones i just don't have the time or space to fix stuff all the time.
I hope you get it sorted, if you can get some chimney parts to swap over I have found with vaping its essential to have spares and backups.
i got a nice little pocket meter that is perfect for vaping. I use it to test ohms and battery. It is auto ranging and fairly close to measurements with full bench multi-meters. They are typically $15-20 but i got it at a clearance for $9.
Tenma 72-7935 Pocket-Size Digital Multimeter Review | TAUTIC ELECTRONICS LLC
This^^^ my meter always reads a short as 0.02 and helped me avoid one or two shorts. I've only actually fired two short circuits. (Thank you B&M for forgetting to including an insulator when you built my atty). Second I was overconfident and didn't check my resistance before trying it on one of my mods.
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