Kayfun problems

[jcutler123]

I have two kayfuns. One is a kayfun lite plus and the other is a kayfun 3.1. I was using a dna30 hana clone and everything was fine and then it broke so I bought an eleaf istick. Ever since I got the istick i have been having problems. The kayfun lite plus would taste fine but would almost never read on the istick but the kayfun 3.1 would read fine and taste good for the first half of the tank and then I get this weird taste. Its not really a burnt cotton taste though. I turned down the watts when using the 3.1 and it helped a little bit but the weird taste came back. I tore both of them down to see if maybe I need to replace the insulators. The pic below is the kayfun lite plus. I see the pin insulator in the hole. Is that supposed to come out and is it supposed to be higher up or right where it is? Could the connection issue be the center pin being too short on the kayfun lite plus? And what could be causing the weird taste with the kayfun 3.1? Can bad insulators cause a bad taste? How do you know when the insulators are bad? Sorry for the wall of text


Kayfun lite plus - taste fine but most of the time the istick doesn't read it

Kayfun 3.1 - istick reads it fine and the first half of a tank will taste fine and then I get a weird burnt harsh taste

the bottom screw on the 3.1 sticks out a little and the kayfun lite screw is screwed flush, if I unscrew the kayfun lite screw to make contact it turns the blocks on the deck so I cant do that

 

[ignotus]

The pin insulator is held in place by the pin screw when it's installed. Don't worry about that beyond making sure it isn't upside down.

It sounds like the KFL isn't making contact and the screw needs to stick out further. To make this happen, stack one (or two, if necessary) of the small o-rings from your spare parts bag onto the center pin and reinstall.

Not sure about the 3.1, and I don't own an iStick so I can't comment on its typical performance.

 

[Wolfenstark]

I have read some people having issues with the isticks connector.
I have one and use it with a kayfun light plus v2 clone and have had no problems.

My kfl 510 screw is flush because as you know turning it tuns your deck -

No problems with the istick reading the KFL -

Some have bought an adapter for the istick that attaches to the top of it - I have not had any issues with mine to buy one plus don't fancy having to buy an ex extra that costs a third of what the device cost.

I've never seen a reason to touch the insulator.

 

[Kevin littell]

Or....


make a small washer out of the end of a Fill syringe....A small slice off the tip will not kill the Syringe if your careful and put the slice under the center pin screw when re-assembling.


(I bought a Nemesis and some batteries because its all adjustable and theres not much to wear out or go bad.....Best vaping move I ever made.)


Bad taste......Gotta be insulator burning or coil wire going red hot.....Using a horizontal or vertical coil?

 

[jcutler123]

The pin insulator is held in place by the pin screw when it's installed. Don't worry about that beyond making sure it isn't upside down.

It sounds like the KFL isn't making contact and the screw needs to stick out further. To make this happen, stack one (or two, if necessary) of the small o-rings from your spare parts bag onto the center pin and reinstall.

Not sure about the 3.1, and I don't own an iStick so I can't comment on its typical performance.

Do you mean to put the o-rings on the center pin of the kayfun and towards the bottom or top? Not really understanding

 

[jcutler123]

I have read some people having issues with the isticks connector.
I have one and use it with a kayfun light plus v2 clone and have had no problems.

My kfl 510 screw is flush because as you know turning it tuns your deck -

No problems with the istick reading the KFL -

Some have bought an adapter for the istick that attaches to the top of it - I have not had any issues with mine to buy one plus don't fancy having to buy an ex extra that costs a third of what the device cost.

I've never seen a reason to touch the insulator.

I have the same kayfun as you and the screw is flush and it seems to read fine after I make a new build and then when I switch back to it after using a different tank it won't read.

 

[goofy2302]

It might be because the center pin on the istick isn't spring loaded...so if the previous tank pushes the pin to far in the kayfun will not make contact....you can back out rhe kayfun center screww a bit and see if that helps...but it might lead to the kayfun leaking from the center. Your other option is to pull up the center pin gently up on the istick with a small screwdriver and see if that helps

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

[ignotus]

Do you mean to put the o-rings on the center pin of the kayfun and towards the bottom or top? Not really understanding

Yes just slip the o-ring onto the center pin all the way to the bottom. This will stop the center pin from going in all the way while still allowing you to tighten the deck.

Just to be clear I mean the smallest o-rings in the bag.

 

[jcutler123]

Yes just slip the o-ring onto the center pin all the way to the bottom.

Just to be clear I mean the smallest o-rings in the bag.

I had one really small one that I dont even know what it went to and it seems to have worked. Do any of the hardware stores carry o-rings that small? I bought #60 for a MVP fix one time but those are too big.

 

[ignotus]

I had one really small one that I dont even know what it went to and it seems to have worked. Do any of the hardware stores carry o-rings that small? I bought #60 for a MVP fix one time but those are too big.

Not sure, but you can order the spare parts bag from Vaperev for $2.50 (and a new set of insulators for $8). Make sure you select the Lite Plus option, because only it uses the really small o-rings (for the fill hole screw).

Vaperev Shop - Kayfun Spare O-ring and Replacement Screw Set
Vaperev Shop - Kayfun Replacement Isolators

 

[ian91]

I had a similar problem with my MVP2 and KFL where it was not connecting properly. I ended up buying some circuit board spacers from MadVapes. You push one into your 510 connector on the iStick and then screw in your RBA. Way over priced for what they are but they worked for me.

Circuit Board Spacer

 

[jcutler123]

Thanks guys, the o-ring on the center pin has seemed to work and extended it just enough to make contact. I still don't understand the harsh taste on the 3.1.

 

[k2zs]

The 3.1 problem is probably because the iSticks run "hotter" than their settings. You're probably getting caramelized e-liquid wicking back into your tank and by the half way point it's enough to spoil the taste. Try turning the power down some more.

 

[coolercoiler]

It might be that the istick outputs in mean wattage not rms like many other mods, your dna 30 for example . You would possibly need less watts on your istick for the equivalent wattage on a dna.

Dont understand why its called mean to give more power though, should be called generous wattage setting.

 

[jcutler123]

I make single coils around 1.2 to 1.5 ohms on the kayfuns and run them around 11 or 12 watts. The kayfun lite can stay around 11 or 12 watts and tastes fine but the 3.1 around there gets that harsh taste after a while. I have turned it down to 8 or 9 watts on the 3.1 and it seems to help but it still has a lingering harshness sometimes. I like this istick but it does run hotter and is becoming a pain in the ... dialing it in. Anyone know what tanks have a spring loaded or adjustable center pin?

I am only 4 months in on the vaping and also wanted to know how people use these high wattage devices like 100 watts. I dont even go to 15 hardly. Is that for dual coils and sub ohm?