kbox mini rba help

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op3operator

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Feb 23, 2016
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OK so the past week ive been building the rba that came with my kanger topbox mini, the first coil i did make it 4 days,then tasted burnt, im making my coils around 0.6-7ohms. Then lately the past 3 builds i done im getting like 15 hours out of them.

They eventually start leaking (brown) through the air holes so I take the rba apart and usually its only one side of the coil that is black and caked a bit.Not a whole lot but you can taste the burning.

So im not sure what happened for the first one to go 4 days and now i can't get a whole day out of one .

Im using kanthal A1 26 Gauge about 5 wraps, generally there pretty tight, together.
And using cotton bacon 2.0 and my liquid is 25/75vg
Im also only about 20watts and i think thats low so that shouldn't be the issue.

When I build them I test them they do burn from the center outwards, The only thing i can think of is perhaps a hot spot or something, or there too tight the coils itself.
 
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edyle

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OK so the past week ive been building the rba that came with my kanger topbox mini, the first coil i did make it 4 days,then tasted burnt, im making my coils around 0.6-7ohms. Then lately the past 3 builds i done im getting like 15 hours out of them.

They eventually start leaking (brown) through the air holes so I take the rba apart and usually its only one side of the coil that is black and caked a bit.Not a whole lot but you can taste the burning.

So im not sure what happened for the first one to go 4 days and now i can't get a whole day out of one .

Im using kanthal A1 26 Gauge about 5 wraps, generally there pretty tight, together.
And using cotton bacon 2.0 and my liquid is 25/75vg
Im also only about 20watts and i think thats low so that shouldn't be the issue.

When I build them I test them they do burn from the center outwards, The only thing i can think of is perhaps a hot spot or something, or there too tight the coils itself.

I bet the side of the coil that is black is the positive side.
Hot leg.
When wrapping the positive leg:
Wrap the leg all the way around the post and back onto itself so that it makes a thicker leg.
 
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suprtrkr

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LV is good wire. It could be a positive leg hot spot, as has been said. You might also be pulling too much cotton. Cotton swells when wet, and sometimes it can swell so much it "chokes" in the coil and can't wick. Good wicking is imperative as the cotton will burn from the heat if it isn't cooled by evaporation of juice. The brown stuff flowing back into the tank is a good indication the coil is gunky, as well. That's caramelized sweetener from the juice. It's not harmful, but it's an indication it's time for new wick and to burn the coil clean. When wicking cotton, the wick should pull through the coil with very little resistance. You should be able to pull it back and forth without dragging the build stand or mod around the table with the wick. You may also wish to try wicking rayon, which shrinks when wet and thus is less sensitive to coil wick volume and-- IMHO, there are differences of opinion-- wicks and tasted better than cotton anyway.
 

op3operator

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Feb 23, 2016
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Have to open this up again, i dont know what to do.

So yeah im still having the issue of burning on the rba mini plus, I bought a new one to see if thats the issue and same thing, works for few minutes untell i take a pull longer than 3 seconds then it just burns.
I drilled the holes out one size bigger ive tried spaced coils pressed tight coils, they glow inside-out no hot spots that i see no touching other metal.
Ive tried a few wicks and same thing, i prime them really well and its almost like once the initial prime it gone it doesnt work anymore. if you take big puffs.
For wicks I've tried the less is more concept and while they work with just little smoke like puffs once you take a lung hit it makes you wanna cry.


I can't even seem to find a video with the newer rba no juice channel just the 2 smaller holes. tutorial.
How did i go 4 days on the first one i made lol.

Seriously though i also bought a cheap rda this weekend and the thing works it's easy it works, so why is this so hard?
 
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Sir2fyablyNutz

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I have been building on my Subtank rba's for about 6 months now. For me it was like once I figured it out I can do it blind. I prefer at least 6 wraps, contact, on my builds and usually 2.5 diameter. If you're getting a good build with no hot spots you might try different diameters to change the wicking, it could be you're overdrawing the wicking ability leading to a burnt coil.

kanger subtank rba coil build - YouTube Coil build
kanger subtank rba coil wicking - YouTube Wicking
 
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mauricem00

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I have 4 sub tanks with rba decks I wind my coils 3mm in diameter and use rayon wicks. I make my wick snug thru the coil then but the sleeve on and pack the wick into the sleeve like on the kayfuns.have no problems with dry hits and only replace my wicks and burn my coils to clean them once every two weeks. the larger coil diameter allows for more juice flow and rayon needs to be tight in the coil because it shrinks when wet
 
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Maiar

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It took me awhile to get mine up and running as well. I was just hemmoraghing juice for awhile there. What seems to be working for me is 3mm coils, and when wicking, roll the cotton between your hands a couple times. Not so it's tight, just so it kinda looks like a joint. Then once it's through, kinda untwist and really fluff it up good. And if it starts tasting burnt, use your fingers to close the airholes and gently inhale for a couple seconds. I'm surprised how well that actually works.
Honestly though, if you're using just single horizontal coils in there, try rebuilding one of the stock coils. It's a really easy way to practice wicking because you don't have to take anything apart if you screw it up, you can just pull the cotton out and rewick in a seconds. Once you can get those working the RBA seems a bit easier to get right.
 

Acer50

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What I found on the Mini Rba decks was people not wicking them correctly! Make sure you fluff out the wick and loosely pack it down the sides so the two small Juice at the base have the wick fixable but not protruding. This is important for Juice feed and also prevents leakage. Also make sure your wick is not over tight when you insert it through your coil. It should be easily pullable. What you describe sounds like your wick is starving for Juice.
 

Clydde26

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Notice how the coil opening is centered on the screws. This is a 2.5mm ID that seems to be the sweet spot.
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Plenty of cotton running through the coil enough for gradual resistance but not enough that your cotton is pulling apart as your pulling it through the coil.
-hLDXizTGfpUZZri_f_Apvcq7oRo45-0nPrK2JHwPIiB-65WjF6crJLQdsK8UGFUiugTvRuAkG670lw8T6ixzVQRAeYgoic7Paet5BwVxNJPDY43b8ySEyMetT96-orCC3znfndF
Tails go up through the coil housing like bunny ears and then the housing is slid over them and secured.
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I then pull them to the side and trim leaving approximately an 1/8 inch tail left on each side.
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Using a small flat head or equivalent i gently poke the tails down on each side no stuffing them tightly but ensuring that it touches the bottom of the build deck. I also inspect and make sure that none of the cotton is wildly poking down the air hole under the coil. this will cause leaking.
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As you turn the housing on its side you should be able to see just enough poof of cotton poking out of the juice channel holes. This means you have enough cotton in your device.
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The only way you can shut the air off on the top tank mini is in between the small hole and medium hole...there is no true "all the way off" setting so you will just have to play with it.
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Ensure you leave your slight air bubble at the top for proper juice flow then close the top and open your afc back up. You should have no issues with leaking if these steps are followed.

This is the best pictoral step by step I can give you for sub tank mini rba wicking and setting up. It doesn't matter what type of coil or what type of wicking material you use if you follow these steps you will not get a burnt/dry hit. I have vaped the rba in temps excess of 75 degrees and no lack of wicking.
 

skullblade789

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itpTu6deKBekTk1gzkh7_ZtfItK41jE3hsQ6zqqApU4YqtZv0GNkShG9e9BWyaB9rh_pFi8hRTVixDiRgS0JkjsHCvLhqD04HZ9tRzw62251XlJj_9AhWxngaoWbv8QyMi6ksRIg
Notice how the coil opening is centered on the screws. This is a 2.5mm ID that seems to be the sweet spot.
uCHhqXoFOL1EsgakMfGRn8E6LwikGcF6h1wfOswqxooqAPQnooWHOs56elt2QqBLAEZh7DnnqOTLSH4paBQ3ur9XQF90wOGuuQWMyX8ipaxaj08uYt6pZ7OvN3Ful2b2Hi9H30X-
Plenty of cotton running through the coil enough for gradual resistance but not enough that your cotton is pulling apart as your pulling it through the coil.
-hLDXizTGfpUZZri_f_Apvcq7oRo45-0nPrK2JHwPIiB-65WjF6crJLQdsK8UGFUiugTvRuAkG670lw8T6ixzVQRAeYgoic7Paet5BwVxNJPDY43b8ySEyMetT96-orCC3znfndF
Tails go up through the coil housing like bunny ears and then the housing is slid over them and secured.
JaQ7s8MUHZWTiETlHzF25TUOJ5E0Go5k9m8T9lFPSDsFtXp8DlsxBWaaPlVlEGNKNi1XvF1sW0mKYELCHviYCy1Fud7_fHAHNXNMtCGOpwuQ1NZXM7zIpfekyrTp1tNKrBOYYhd6
I then pull them to the side and trim leaving approximately an 1/8 inch tail left on each side.
4wVyHUVF8k1hWMog6smnEG0oXLxqKg4mIjMfULK6ihRi6DWl6LuRgXJ8j1tU9Qc3GHvSfnpEQUawSC9JIx579nXprZaVJlq1eGS2VQzaeG3AGpaWOMkMTcbQ0PXEK6iOa4T7DepQ
Using a small flat head or equivalent i gently poke the tails down on each side no stuffing them tightly but ensuring that it touches the bottom of the build deck. I also inspect and make sure that none of the cotton is wildly poking down the air hole under the coil. this will cause leaking.
cYVC3yI8CIc3ttb2-_3vpsQLTEo3apgnaoAzbWK_QVINoHR51jiWX7rtmKbbZNy8_4T3T_JP3eVL78TPsLHFrCiYrqhbi5UG8WrSicZhn0CunW70A39j4phlAGQEYSe9yWC8SNt4
As you turn the housing on its side you should be able to see just enough poof of cotton poking out of the juice channel holes. This means you have enough cotton in your device.
Ke-9D8rMp77zCVdIUigGW1J6zq-FiF_Ash7KYc3dLrG_JY0XKcsdCy81yru7a-zwg2uYOgLiTZrDJX6eC-5GgIKqBYlLUU2IYy2oeP8r8b_uDAAosAh3Ftip2Ul0gTe_o6g4c-Oi
The only way you can shut the air off on the top tank mini is in between the small hole and medium hole...there is no true "all the way off" setting so you will just have to play with it.
W3FwrzBLW6vEvaKybBhUWmRC0Opu8YAitNRLi_Bp__iFdRma5ENDs0EQQPVl9vZepQRS3E8HA-MQErCJOJ8XOVpiEYhIfREuBXkgJHuLTDRBmrv2NWtOo1X9f9VonLh7NhKTn6K6
Ensure you leave your slight air bubble at the top for proper juice flow then close the top and open your afc back up. You should have no issues with leaking if these steps are followed.

This is the best pictoral step by step I can give you for sub tank mini rba wicking and setting up. It doesn't matter what type of coil or what type of wicking material you use if you follow these steps you will not get a burnt/dry hit. I have vaped the rba in temps excess of 75 degrees and no lack of wicking.

Spot on and great advice. You have to be careful with your coils that you make. Also some juices if sweet are just coil sludgers. New name and patented. They will sludge upa coil in no time flat.
 
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