KFL+ Severe Flooding

[TeaTwoSugars]

Hi folks,

So I received my first rba, built a few coil with .2mm Kanther with Silica, and eventually managed a respectable (for me) 1.7ohm build with no hot spots.

Piece it back together, fill halfway with juice and it's really badly flooded. Took it apart, tried again and same thing, the drip tip is more like a straw the amount that's coming through!

This is a KFL+ Clone, but respectable quality from what I can tell. Are there any common issues that I may be missing, or any suggestions?

 

[mrdeltoid]

Have you made sure all of the o-rings seal properly, especially the smaller one where the chimney meets the top cap? Also, how are you filling it?

 

[TeaTwoSugars]

I believe so, as tight as it would go without damaging it. I'm filling it from the bottom hole, watched the grim green video which said top filling was a no no

 

[mrdeltoid]

A good way to check for air leaks is to cover the airhole and blow into the mouth piece. If it's not air tight you've got an issue with one or more o-rings. Other than this I really can't help you since I have never had a flooding issue with my KFL+.

 

[donnah]

The plastic part may be cross threaded at one end or the other. This happened to me the other day.. juice dripping out the drip tip when turned upside down then constantly dripping out the air hole when right side up. Upon close examination.. the plastic part was cross threaded. I snapped it back together and was then able to take it apart and thread it correctly.

 

[mrdeltoid]

Oh and I almost forgot. Opening up the air flow can help. If it's turned way down, a tight draw can result in flooding.

 

[TeaTwoSugars]

Thanks for the suggestions. I've checked the seals/O rings and it's all okay. I think one of the issues is that I may have accidently but my finger over the air hole at some stage.

Drained it out, did a rebuild and it happened again. I think is that I've been over cautious with not blocking the juice channels leading into the cylinder. I haven't built any coils before so I'm giving it a rest for tonight - it's taken me hours just to get to this stage. I'm going to have a crack at micro coils with cotton though to see if that helps - I've heard good things.

Any recommendations on what ohms to try it at? I'm used to kanger pro tank at 2.2 - I'm after flavour but not so much heat I end up coughing.

 

[snow blind]

Oh and I almost forgot. Opening up the air flow can help. If it's turned way down, a tight draw can result in flooding.

This. I get this when i run 20/80 vg or 100 vg with my slightly turned down air screw used for 50/50 blends. Open her up all the way and see if that helps. Even if it's flooded, with an open air intake and with everything else air tight you should be able to work some of the excess juice out and get it going w/o even opening it back up.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

If you've got leaking, you have a vacuum problem somewhere. It could very well be that your draws when firing it are outmatching the tank vacuum's ability to pull the juice back in. A more efficient coil and lighter draws may help.

I'd say go for the microcoil technique with cotton wicking, and aim for a resistance of 1.3-1.5 ohms. That would be 9 or 10 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal around a 1/16th in drill bit.

 

[donnah]

I have a friend who can not use the kayfun or any of the bottom coil vacuum type devices. Her draw is just so strong, she sucks too much juice into the chamber and floods it. She once sucked the wicks of a kayfun right up into the chimney! Don't worry so much about blocking the juice channels.. the wicks needs to be right on top of them to sop up the juice as it's sucked into the chamber. Don't pack it down in the inlets but definitely make sure it's down there.

If the plastic part is cross threaded, it's hard to see unless you look very close. An indication is if it won't come apart.

 

[Ben C.]

I have a friend who can not use the kayfun or any of the bottom coil vacuum type devices. Her draw is just so strong, she sucks too much juice into the chamber and floods it. She once sucked the wicks of a kayfun right up into the chimney!

If the plastic part is cross threaded, it's hard to see unless you look very close. An indication is if it won't come apart.

Great advice, and I'll add that even if you can't see that the tank sections may be cross threaded, you can roll the Kayfun across a flat surface and you can tell very quickly if the sections are misaligned

 

[dhomes]

I believe so, as tight as it would go without damaging it. I'm filling it from the bottom hole, watched the grim green video which said top filling was a no no

i was getting the same problem yesterday on my eh pro clone and it was actually by filling from the top that I could fix it

i just screw the AFC all the way in before doing it. fill with liquid, do just 1 or 2 turns and flip the device upside down, either open the AFC or bottom screw and screw the rest of the top in. This prevents over-pressure.

 

[TeaTwoSugars]

Just waiting on same 28 guage to build a micro coil.

Does anyone know how to adjust the airflow on the KFL+. There's two holes at the bottom but don't know what to do

 

[Ben C.]

Does anyone know how to adjust the airflow on the KFL+. There's two holes at the bottom but don't know what to do

The large, recessed screw with the o-ring is your fill screw. Do not mess with that after you've filled the KFL+. The microscopic flathead screw is your airflow screw. Back it out flush to have a full open airflow, screw it in to tighten it up.

 

[TeaTwoSugars]

Managed to figure it out after messing a bit, thanks for the advice though! I'd been leaving it alone due to thinking it was some sort of secondary filling hole...

Problem has been sorted by the way! I've been a complete numpty and had the airflow completely shut... Did another build with 3 x 1mm silica coming it at 1.6ohms, no flooding/gurgling/splatter. Very happy for my second day of RBA's and building coils.

Thanks again guys for all the help