Kick From Evolv
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Sorry switch man, I was just being an ......, I was actually a beta tester lol..
Yeah it works fine with ggts and 18650, only crap thing is you'll have a bit of the threads visible.
The Kick may not be for everyone. The really big bonus is getting a consistent wattage on every hit. No fussing around, no mussing around. That is amazing. But …
“Once you find your preferred Power level [Wattage] , there is no need to constantly adjust it because the Kick will maintain that Power level [Wattage] even if you change attys/cartos and/or resistance. “ - Evolv
… and …
“The settings [Power Level] range is from 5 watts to 10 watts.” - Evolv.
I currently use a variable voltage device and have found my sweet spot to be a 1.5ohms carto with my voltage set at 4.2, so ….
(4.2 X 4.2)/1.5 = a Power Level (Wattage) of 11.76
That’s the same as having a fully charged battery in a standard device (no Kick, no VV). As our batteries start to drain our Power Level (Wattage) falls and everything about the experience (TH & VH) changes which used to annoy me to no end before I got a variable voltage device.
(3.7 X 3.7)/1.5 = a Power Level (Wattage) of 9.13
The Kick’s max Power Level (Wattage) being 10 watts would be approximately 3.8 volts with a 1.5 carto/atty. When I set my VV device to 3.8 volts with a 1.5ohms carto/atty my vaping experience takes a nose dive.
I'm really bummed out about the max setting at 10 watts.
Just saying …. The Kick may not be for everyone.
“Once you find your preferred Power level [Wattage] , there is no need to constantly adjust it because the Kick will maintain that Power level [Wattage] even if you change attys/cartos and/or resistance. “ - Evolv
… and …
“The settings [Power Level] range is from 5 watts to 10 watts.” - Evolv.
I currently use a variable voltage device and have found my sweet spot to be a 1.5ohms carto with my voltage set at 4.2, so ….
(4.2 X 4.2)/1.5 = a Power Level (Wattage) of 11.76
That’s the same as having a fully charged battery in a standard device (no Kick, no VV). As our batteries start to drain our Power Level (Wattage) falls and everything about the experience (TH & VH) changes which used to annoy me to no end before I got a variable voltage device.
(3.7 X 3.7)/1.5 = a Power Level (Wattage) of 9.13
The Kick’s max Power Level (Wattage) being 10 watts would be approximately 3.8 volts with a 1.5 carto/atty. When I set my VV device to 3.8 volts with a 1.5ohms carto/atty my vaping experience takes a nose dive.
I'm really bummed out about the max setting at 10 watts.
Just saying …. The Kick may not be for everyone.
But I think that's the reason why some people want it. To be able to get the same hit from a battery right off the charger to 3 hours later to another 3 hours after that.
Is that a single or dual coil carto, though? Because remember that the 1.5ohm duals are made up of two 3.0ohm coils in parallel, which means you're really getting half that wattage per coil (~5.8W per coil), which does not equal 11.76W of total power output because heat+heat != 2heat. In other words, you can't stick two flames together to double the heat, just the size of the flame, which is how the dual coils work; you're really getting ~5.8W total output and twice the vapor. So no, the Kick is not suitable for dual coils unless you like your vapes on the moderate to cool side. On a single coil though I find 10W is more than enough.
How to use the Kick
***USE IMR BATTERIES ONLY*** The Kick was designed to be used with IMR batteries only.
USE ONLY IMR BATTERIES.
DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR SHRINK-WRAP: It acts as a protective second layer of insulation against shorts.
INSTALLING KICK MODULE: The Kick MUST be installed correctly. The bottom of the Kick must sit directly on the positive terminal of the battery (button end for button-top batteries). The top of the Kick (the end with the blue adjustment box) must be oriented towards the head of the device (never towards a device spring). The Kick is designed to be used in 18650 metal tube mods with an IMR 18490 or 18500 battery. Several device manufacturers are considering building extensions or longer tubes to permit the Kick to be used with the larger 18650 IMR batteries. The Kick may also be used with 18500 metal tube mods with an IMR 18350 battery.
Kick Bottom
Kick Top
GROUND SPRING: You will notice a small spring attached to the top (side edge) of the Kick. This has been carefully designed and is an ESSENTIAL component of the Kick for proper functioning. The spring MUST make contact with the grounded inner wall of the battery tube. If this spring does not make contact, the Kick will not function. SOME (few) DEVICES HAVE ANODIZED or POWDER COAT ON THE INSIDE OF THE BATTERY Compartment. This can interfere with the ground connection. These coatings must be removed at the point of contact with the ground spring.
NOTE: DEVICE TUBES VARY - The internal diameter is wider on some and narrower on others. Please do not use the Kick in tube mods with an internal diameter greater than 19.5mm.
Setting your Power Level (watts setting): The adjustment potentiometer (blue box) is located on the top side of the Kick. In the center of the box is a white adjustment screw to be used for adjusting the Kick's power setting. The watts settings are marked ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD and can be seen around the pot/blue-box. NOTE: there are lines underneath each setting number, follow the lines to the corresponding watts setting. Turning the adjustment screw clockwise increases power and counter-clockwise decreases power. The settings range is from 5 watts to 10 watts. The Kick performs best with attys/cartos rated between 1.3 to 3.0 Ohms. You can use higher rated resistance but the Kick will not regulate well at the highest power levels if resistance is above 3 ohms. Unlike Variable voltage devices, the Kick does not need frequent adjustments. Once you find your preferred Power level, there is no need to constantly adjust it because the Kick will maintain that Power level even if you change attys/cartos and/or resistance.
You can use an under-load digital meter to see the volts as you change resistances and/or settings. AN ATOMIZER OR CARTOMIZER MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE METER OR YOU WILL NOT GET ANY READING.
Low Battery Indicator: The Kick will detect, and stop functioning, when a battery charge level drops below 3.2 volts UNDER LOAD (with an atty/carto attached). This is a safety feature. The Kick will tell you this feature is activating when you experience STUTTER VAPE (vapor-no vapor alternating - may feel like tss-tss-tss). If you continue to vape beyond this indicator, the Kick will stop functioning until a fresh battery charge is detected. If you remove the battery and meter test it (unloaded) it may read between 3.4 and 3.6 volts. There are many variables that can contribute to the various unloaded readings.
Battery life per charge: Many variables contribute to battery life per charge cycle. The Kick incorporates a boost circuit which requires more of your battery. Aggregate button/activation time, power setting, and atty/carto selection all factor into this equation. Battery age and conductive efficiency of the different devices are also variables. Using the Kick will reduce battery life per charge cycle. There is no way to provide use time per charge cycle as there are too many variables. On average, testers experienced reductions ranging from 10 to 20% depending on many different use variables.
Short Circuit Protection: The Kick will detect shorts in the connection between the Kick and the atty/carto coil. This sensor is sensitive and if it detects short, the Kick will not fire. If you experience this, unthread your atty/carto and clean out any accumulated juice in all connections and then gently re-thread atty/carto until only finger-tip snug. If device still will not fire, try a different atty/carto and/or adapter. This is designed both as a safety feature and to protect the components of the Kick module.
Battery safety: Please read the information on ECF and your battery supplier about recommended battery maintenance and overall battery safety in charging and using your batteries. Older batteries may not function as well as newer batteries. If a battery ever shows any sign of damage (torn or cracked outer surface, dents, or other), please discontinue all use of that battery and dispose of it in an approved battery recycling facility. Batteries should never be thrown into the trash - they should always be given to a recycling center that accepts batteries.
IF, FOR ANY REASON, YOU EXPEREINCE A BATTERY THAT OVER-HEATS, PLEASE IMMEDIATELY DISCONTINUE USE OF THAT BATTERY. IF THIS HAPPENS WHILE USING YOUR KICK MODULE - PLEASE NOTIFY EVOLVAPOR USING THE "CONTACT US" LINK ON THE EVOLVAPOR.COM WEBSITE.
Warning!
*****REMEMBER - USE IMR BATTERIES ONLY*****
The Kick is designed to be used only as specified in these instructions. Using the Kick module in any configuration other than as outlined above will VOID THE WARRANTY and will be at your own risk. EVOLV cannot warranty, or be responsible for, any user modifications to the device and/or any application other than as specifically described in these user instructions.
Note: The base of the Kick module is a heat synch. You may notice some warmth on the body of your devices with heavy use. This warmth is normal.
Tested Devices
(Note: this is by no means a complete list of compatible devices but rather a list of devices verified as compatible in our testing.)
Tested devices:
• XHaler
• Precise Plus and P18650 (P18500 with 18350 battery)
• Megaladon
• Silver Bullet
• Empire (best to fully down thread outer sleeve when installing and removing Kick)
• GVM (Groove and Smooth)
• GGTS
• Roughstack
• The Cube
• REO Grand (modifications required: please check with device manufacturer for further details.)
Other metal tube devices may work with the Kick module, please adhere to the above mentioned 19.5mm internal diameter dimension
***USE IMR BATTERIES ONLY*** The Kick was designed to be used with IMR batteries only.
USE ONLY IMR BATTERIES.
DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR SHRINK-WRAP: It acts as a protective second layer of insulation against shorts.
INSTALLING KICK MODULE: The Kick MUST be installed correctly. The bottom of the Kick must sit directly on the positive terminal of the battery (button end for button-top batteries). The top of the Kick (the end with the blue adjustment box) must be oriented towards the head of the device (never towards a device spring). The Kick is designed to be used in 18650 metal tube mods with an IMR 18490 or 18500 battery. Several device manufacturers are considering building extensions or longer tubes to permit the Kick to be used with the larger 18650 IMR batteries. The Kick may also be used with 18500 metal tube mods with an IMR 18350 battery.
Kick Bottom
Kick Top
GROUND SPRING: You will notice a small spring attached to the top (side edge) of the Kick. This has been carefully designed and is an ESSENTIAL component of the Kick for proper functioning. The spring MUST make contact with the grounded inner wall of the battery tube. If this spring does not make contact, the Kick will not function. SOME (few) DEVICES HAVE ANODIZED or POWDER COAT ON THE INSIDE OF THE BATTERY Compartment. This can interfere with the ground connection. These coatings must be removed at the point of contact with the ground spring.
NOTE: DEVICE TUBES VARY - The internal diameter is wider on some and narrower on others. Please do not use the Kick in tube mods with an internal diameter greater than 19.5mm.
Setting your Power Level (watts setting): The adjustment potentiometer (blue box) is located on the top side of the Kick. In the center of the box is a white adjustment screw to be used for adjusting the Kick's power setting. The watts settings are marked ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD and can be seen around the pot/blue-box. NOTE: there are lines underneath each setting number, follow the lines to the corresponding watts setting. Turning the adjustment screw clockwise increases power and counter-clockwise decreases power. The settings range is from 5 watts to 10 watts. The Kick performs best with attys/cartos rated between 1.3 to 3.0 Ohms. You can use higher rated resistance but the Kick will not regulate well at the highest power levels if resistance is above 3 ohms. Unlike Variable voltage devices, the Kick does not need frequent adjustments. Once you find your preferred Power level, there is no need to constantly adjust it because the Kick will maintain that Power level even if you change attys/cartos and/or resistance.
You can use an under-load digital meter to see the volts as you change resistances and/or settings. AN ATOMIZER OR CARTOMIZER MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE METER OR YOU WILL NOT GET ANY READING.
Low Battery Indicator: The Kick will detect, and stop functioning, when a battery charge level drops below 3.2 volts UNDER LOAD (with an atty/carto attached). This is a safety feature. The Kick will tell you this feature is activating when you experience STUTTER VAPE (vapor-no vapor alternating - may feel like tss-tss-tss). If you continue to vape beyond this indicator, the Kick will stop functioning until a fresh battery charge is detected. If you remove the battery and meter test it (unloaded) it may read between 3.4 and 3.6 volts. There are many variables that can contribute to the various unloaded readings.
Battery life per charge: Many variables contribute to battery life per charge cycle. The Kick incorporates a boost circuit which requires more of your battery. Aggregate button/activation time, power setting, and atty/carto selection all factor into this equation. Battery age and conductive efficiency of the different devices are also variables. Using the Kick will reduce battery life per charge cycle. There is no way to provide use time per charge cycle as there are too many variables. On average, testers experienced reductions ranging from 10 to 20% depending on many different use variables.
Short Circuit Protection: The Kick will detect shorts in the connection between the Kick and the atty/carto coil. This sensor is sensitive and if it detects short, the Kick will not fire. If you experience this, unthread your atty/carto and clean out any accumulated juice in all connections and then gently re-thread atty/carto until only finger-tip snug. If device still will not fire, try a different atty/carto and/or adapter. This is designed both as a safety feature and to protect the components of the Kick module.
Battery safety: Please read the information on ECF and your battery supplier about recommended battery maintenance and overall battery safety in charging and using your batteries. Older batteries may not function as well as newer batteries. If a battery ever shows any sign of damage (torn or cracked outer surface, dents, or other), please discontinue all use of that battery and dispose of it in an approved battery recycling facility. Batteries should never be thrown into the trash - they should always be given to a recycling center that accepts batteries.
IF, FOR ANY REASON, YOU EXPEREINCE A BATTERY THAT OVER-HEATS, PLEASE IMMEDIATELY DISCONTINUE USE OF THAT BATTERY. IF THIS HAPPENS WHILE USING YOUR KICK MODULE - PLEASE NOTIFY EVOLVAPOR USING THE "CONTACT US" LINK ON THE EVOLVAPOR.COM WEBSITE.
Warning!
*****REMEMBER - USE IMR BATTERIES ONLY*****
The Kick is designed to be used only as specified in these instructions. Using the Kick module in any configuration other than as outlined above will VOID THE WARRANTY and will be at your own risk. EVOLV cannot warranty, or be responsible for, any user modifications to the device and/or any application other than as specifically described in these user instructions.
Note: The base of the Kick module is a heat synch. You may notice some warmth on the body of your devices with heavy use. This warmth is normal.
Tested Devices
(Note: this is by no means a complete list of compatible devices but rather a list of devices verified as compatible in our testing.)
Tested devices:
• XHaler
• Precise Plus and P18650 (P18500 with 18350 battery)
• Megaladon
• Silver Bullet
• Empire (best to fully down thread outer sleeve when installing and removing Kick)
• GVM (Groove and Smooth)
• GGTS
• Roughstack
• The Cube
• REO Grand (modifications required: please check with device manufacturer for further details.)
Other metal tube devices may work with the Kick module, please adhere to the above mentioned 19.5mm internal diameter dimension
And this is why i raise an eyebrow at people , when they say "10 watts is not enough".
Unless you have tried every combination of atty/carto/PV at varying ohm/voltage. you really cant say that it will not be enough.
to me DC carts are a fad and will fade away in vaping history once more companies like Evolv and Provape start popping up.
Don't be so sure. Dual coils serve a definite purpose in that they provide more vapor, and if you use them on a device that can push the amps beyond the common 2.5A limit (mostly stacked devices) you get a fantastic vape with tons of vapor and plenty of warmth. A 1.5ohm dual coil on the EVO at the medium to high setting is absolutely wonderful, but it pulls 3+ amps so it's not feasible on most single-battery VV mods. (ProVari 2.0 remains to be seen.) The EVO has a much higher amperage limit and also uses a PWM regulator, so you get that great warm vape with tons of vapor without raping your batteries. (Provided you're using good high drain batteries.) The fact is, even a higher resistance dual coil carto still doesn't compare on amp-limited devices because they can't reach the same wattage output as a lower resistance on a device with a higher amp limit. But when you do get them on such a device, the vape is fantastic. Pair them with a tank and you've got an awesome system going.
Now, this doesn't account for top-coil CE2s, which can deliver a much warmer vape at a much lower voltage due to the proximity of the coil.
You would want the XL mini (the single 18650 one) with an AW IMR 18490.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@ Mindfield, Even though i completely agree with you, DC carts will eventually evolve into something even better while single coil atties and carts will remain. But that is just how i see it, I may be wrong.
Only time will tell as the manufactures get creative.
I just want to see more 3ml rebuild-able tank/atty setups, i hate the taste of a carto.
Only time will tell as the manufactures get creative.
I just want to see more 3ml rebuild-able tank/atty setups, i hate the taste of a carto.
@ Mindfield, Even though i completely agree with you, DC carts will eventually evolve into something even better while single coil atties and carts will remain. But that is just how i see it, I may be wrong.
Only time will tell as the manufactures get creative.
I just want to see more 3ml rebuild-able tank/atty setups, i hate the taste of a carto.
Rebuildable is definitely great for those of us who like to tinker. I have a GTank-US on the way soon, which I think I'm going to like very much. But that sort of thing really only appeals to a very small segment of the vaping population; most people just want fill-and-go solutions. I'd like to think that we'll eventually achieve perfection with the CE2 design, which IMHO is the ideal method because there's no filler and the top coil design gives a warmer vape at a lower wattage, and Vision have been making great strides in that area. We'll just have to see how it evolves from here.
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