knight Kevlar mod firing problem

[shadowsfall123]

Hello i bought a 1:1 clone knight Kevlar mod and it seems to not want to fire sometimes and takes a few seconds to fire if it decides it wants to, or will cut off half hit. I have clean all the threading, cleaned the tube have the all the adjustments tightened and adjusted to fit with the battery so everything sits flush.

I have tried different batteries and also used my rda in a different mod. I am using sony vtc 4's. The only difference really between this mod and my vanilla is that the vanilla is 23mm and the knight is 22mm but i wouldnt beleive that would be a problem.

 

[Smann245]

Did you do a complete disassembly down to every single part?

 

[T3Texas]

I bought the infinite knights carbon mech. I found that it is very picky on RDA's. I ended up using a Stillaire clone. I found that RDA's with short 510 connections would not go in the top cap far enough to have any contact with pin after battery was installed and pins adjusted.

 

[shadowsfall123]

yes, every single part was disassembled and mine doesnt have a floating pin so i can adjust it to make good contact with the 510 from the rda

 

[shadowsfall123]

following up it seems replacing the magnets that came with it with a spring has seemed to work,,,, is there any reason this would be? i only tested it for a few minutes but it is firing right up now.

 

[Smann245]

The spring provides a path for current. Removing it removes that path commonly resulting in a less than consistent circuit.

 

[shadowsfall123]

the mod dind't come with the spring only magnets, i used my spring from my vanilla mod and it seems to work just fine now, is it possible the magnets were just DOA

 

[Smann245]

I think you need to wrap your head around how electricity gets through the switch and all it's components. Studying the individual parts of your switch, how they go together, considering how the circuit opens and closes and the potential paths for current to flow will help you to understand exactly what your switch is or isn't doing. Becoming a mod expert isn't necessary, becoming an expert on your piece of gear is recommended.

 

[shadowsfall123]

I think you need to wrap your head around how electricity gets through the switch and all it's components. Studying the individual parts of your switch, how they go together, considering how the circuit opens and closes and the potential paths for current to flow will help you to understand exactly what your switch is or isn't doing. Becoming a mod expert isn't necessary, becoming an expert on your piece of gear is recommended.

thanks that is really helpful response, now i remember why i never use this website obviously the current is being cut off somewhere in the switch as if i didn't state that. All i said is if the magnets would some how cause a problem with the mod producing a steady current because switching to a spring fixes this.

thanks for being so helpful in your responses and I hope you have a great time being the mr almighty you think you are,

 

[dirty_luck]

I'll take a shot.

You are not picking up what he is putting down for you OP. The magnets DOA? Do they attract and repel, if so then they are fine. The only way a magnet is dead is if it is no longer magnetized. Now, when a mod is relying solely on a magnet in the switch that means the electrical current has to find a way to go from the contacting center post to the outer ring or the switch to be picked up by the body of the mod. With a magnet it will have to rely on some part of the center post touching or arcing over to carry this current basically equaling a half ... connection. With a spring it has a direct path to follow. Still with me so far?....good. now quit having an attitude. You have proven you have no real understanding of how the circuit does and doesn't work. Enjoy your vape and free help.

 

[Signmaker]

Theres too much clearance between your switch post and switch bore, allowing it to break contact when the post "floats" inside it's bore. The spring makes a conductive path between the switch platform and the switch housing face, so even when the post "floats" inside it's bore, there is still a path for the current to follow (through the spring).

When current travels through the spring, it meets resistance. This causes power loss from your atty (through increased mod voltage drop), and causes the spring to get hot. Hot springs lose tension. Hence why vapers with high wattages prefer magnets. If you're not going over 40 watts with your build, a spring will serve you fine. If you are going over 40 watts, I'd reccomend learning the technique to make good contact with magnet switches.

Which is a really long and informative way of suggesting that just because you can buy it, doesnt mean you should use it. Knowledge is power, know your equipment.