Kraken help pls

[WarBlaze]

so i bought a kraken and i hate it so far
im using ... cotton so it would wick faster but its not and i get the burn hit every other hit
used 30 g kanthal and it ohm'd in around .7 i dueled it and ran the cotton straight down the hole
any help on getting more good hits or suggestions on builds would be grand

 

[State O' Flux]

A complete description is always good when asking any sort of technical issue question. Saying that, I'll give it a shot, but without knowledge of what power application you have, and the rather limited build description... there's a good bit of guesswork going on.

30 gauge is a bit on the thin side for a 0.7Ω dual parallel build... unless the wattage value is pretty modest. With a mech mod at full voltage, your wattage output is 25w, and "heat flux" is 318 mW/mm2... not overly hot, but certainly on the warm side.
"Heat Flux" value is a representation of coil radiant heat, expressed in milliwatts per millimeter of coil surface area, squared.

If on the other hand, you've got a high output regulated mod, and you're "forcing" a higher wattage, say... 35 watts, it would bump the heat flux up to 445 mW/mm2, which is quite hot, and would vaporize the wick-in-coil juice at a very rapid rate.

You may even have the coils too tight on the wick, restricting wick-in-coil replenishment.

Regardless, you may very well have created a build that is "out of balance" with your wick capillary action capabilities, and even your juice viscosity.

Click on the first and second siglines below and have a read. You may find in doing so, the cause for your dry hits.

 

[WarBlaze]

will be clicking your links after this lol
i use a magneto mech mod some times and my ipv mini so ive tried to use different wattage with the mini and no good ill take a picture with my phone in a minute before i dismantle the build well maybe just try a re wick first see if that is the problem
it is my first genesis so the learning curve is different to me than say my magma or tugboat
was hoping that i could put this kraken on a home made mech pipe im in the process of building but the battery will only be a 18350 when that happens so ill want to go more into the 1 ohm + range i think

 

[State O' Flux]

the battery will only be a 18350 when that happens so ill want to go more into the 1 ohm + range i think

You can sub-ohm an 18350 (0.7Ω draws 6 amps at 4.2v), but continuous run time will be pretty short... 8-9 minutes. Double that with at 1.2Ω+/-.

 

[EDO]

look at this video... the guy is setting up a Perseus genny but I set up my Kraken like this and never got a dry hit and it vaped really well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8aozqsucwM

 

[WarBlaze]

Nice video never thought to not feed the cotton into the tank
So here is my pictures will be trying some other stuff now



Sent from an undisclosed Vape hideout

 

[Sthur]

I would run ss cable with ecowool sleeve and 3 wraps of ribbon wire and dual mode will run at 0.4 ohms. It's great on a mech. I run a single in my RSST at 0.8 ohms and no dry hits or genny tilt.

 

[juicynoos]

Where the genesis shines is with the use of mesh and ss rope for wicking to get a great flavor from your juice, rather than cotton. I have used all the various types and enjoy the gennie style for this reason-I love tinkering! It's not for everybody of course.

Pay particular attention to the diameter of your wicking material and don't build your coil too tight and restrictive as this is the main reason to have dry hits.
When using mesh I usually pre-build a micro coil on a 2.5mm drill bit rather than coiling onto the mesh and having to deal with hot spots.
SS rope I generally use a eco wool sleeve or gently brush on a thin coating of organic cotton before placing it into the pre built coil.

I avoid doing cotton only as it defeats the point in using a gennie altogether.

The Kraken has a really good afc and domed top cap that enables you to get great flavor without needing the dual coil setup or going sub-ohm. (unless you want to) but is capable of rivaling an rda if you set it up that way too!

Maybe start off simple with some pre built mesh wicks already oxidized and try to do a single micro coil of 5 wraps, 28gauge to run it on your Magneto.
Before vaping it tilt the atty and see if it's wicking well and you should be good to go. It takes some practice but you will grow to love this device I'm sure.
Good luck

 

[TheWarmth88]

Those little wick holes are a major PITA for wicking, IMO. SS mesh alone never seemed to do the trick, but then again I couldn't stand wrapping coils around the mesh on such a tiny build space, especially with the wick so close to the positive post.

The only way I've gotten to enjoy my Kraken is by making microcoils first, pulsing, adjusting, and then feeding in the wicks (I stick with 28ga usually). The key for me is to roll 200 grade SS mesh a little thinner than usual so it moves through the coil and wick hole a little more easily, and then I add just enough cotton to cover the mesh and to take up the rest of the space in the coil. Use just enough to keep it from falling through and make sure it's completely even around the wick.

Cotton doesn't necessarily wick faster. Even japanese cotton. I've seen some "inception" wicks that can draw juice faster than a .6 ohm coil could burn it off, without even tilting. jong yeol Kim did a build on the In'ax MkII that shows that pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mW25huPjlYI

If you must stick with cotton, then just remember less is more. A LOT less. If those wick holes are even remotely choked off, then nothing will pass through just because of the inherent design.

Flux is right when he mentions juice viscosity. It can make a WORLD of difference. Max VG dripping sauce works great on a dripper, but you'll have to permanently tilt and use something really coarse like 200 grade SS mesh to get even remotely close to wicking, and even then you'd probably have to have a backup just to wait in the meantime. (This is based solely on my experience and I'm far from a master when it comes to wicking).

Gennies are a new realm of building. It's frustrating as hell, but just keep tinkering. I went through probably 10 sheets of mesh and several feet of wire before I even got close to something I like.

Cheers

 

[Thrasher]

Geni with mesh is the toughest build to master, but also one of the most rewarding vapes.
it has been this way since the beginning. Over time with constant rebuilding and tinkering it becomes second nature.

I have done it for so long now I twist the mesh, wrap the wire on it, insert into the deck, pulse some oxidation onto it, poke the coils a bit for an even glow anx usually good to go.

But dont be fooled - even the most experienced mesh users have their nightmare days where nothing seems to go easy.

Just like a top end sports car - with high performace comes higher levels of constant tuning sometimes.

 

[juicynoos]

Like a high end sports car, always have one in use and the other in the garage If you can't be bothered with the them just sell and get something that offers instant gratification.

 

[WarBlaze]

ok so i think ive decided to sell it
how do i find out if its a clone?

 

[Thrasher]

ok so i think ive decided to sell it
how do i find out if its a clone?

Easy how much did you pay for it and where did you get it?

Last time i checked real kraken's were still well over $100+

 

[WattWick]

Not that I've seen all clones and originals, but I have yet to see a polished original or a brushed clone. If it's steel, that is. No idea about the others.

 

[WarBlaze]

i bought it from a friend for like 50 i think

 

[WattWick]

That's a tough one. Either he ripped you off on a clone or gave you a good deal on an original.

 

[juicynoos]

That's a tough one. Either he ripped you off on a clone or gave you a good deal on an original.

Haha, ..To the OP, post a pic here if you can with the parts separated and showing the batch # which is printed on the positive post column that runs through the tank to the base. Or else, just ask the friend you bought it from where he got it and how much he paid

 

[WattWick]

So... as I have only one version of the clones - I don't know how they all look. Visible differences from the original is quite apparent. Clone has a polished finish - original is brushed. Clone has a fill hole the size of a wick hole. Original has a much smaller fill hole.

As I'm not sure if there are any polished originals - the first thing I'd check is the fill hole. If it's large and threaded - it's a clone.

 

[WarBlaze]

thanks for the info ill take it apart soon and inspect it im guessing its a close clone and got ripped by the buddy but its ok cause his woman

 

[WattWick]

Just pop the cap off and you'll see the fill hole right there on the deck.

Two wick holes on opposite sides of center post with each their screw. The third hole is the one in question. If all three holes are the same size - it's a clone. Or... I'm pretty sure it is.

There may of course be clones that I haven't seen - with wick hole similar to the original.