I've been told to file for better connection to keep fire button from getting hot , but doesn't seem to be working. Help? Thanks.
kts fire button gets hot
- Thread starter Heavyhittersclub
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Not quite sure exactly what you are asking for, but nothing, and I mean ZILCH, should be getting hot. I am referring to the battery portion of the ecig. Return it to wherever you got it and ask for refund and/or replacement. Sure the carto can get hot if you toke it too much and hopefully you will put it down to let it cool. If you are using the ecig so much as to make the unit itself hot, then it is not the one that you need in order to satisfy your cravings. Could you be a little more specific in what kind of help you would like? Are you using the correct batteries in the kts? Contact the vendor. I am sure they can help.
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nothing should be getting hot on any apv,
I have the kts and sanded the points, but nothing gets hot. What batteries do you use ?
Make sure the button pin is making good contact with the bottom pin. Look at the button while pressing it and check for a small gap under it to make sure it's physically contacting. I would not file mine, but if you have already done it, it must be clean. The only opther thing I can think of the end of the spring and the threads need to be clean, but that's not the button.
Best of luck with it!
Best of luck with it!
if ur useing a genesis u prob have a short.if ur button is getting hot ur battery is getting hot which is very bad
just firing button gets hot not battery , I been very concerned about that but battery is cool.
I'm going to safely assume no one else has used a KTS. I've used a KTS before and do have the same problem as the op. The firing button does get hot. I've read and heard how to resolve the problem, but have never found a solution. So, I just gave up on it and moved on to a different mod. Now I have a chi clone. Much better and hits just like the real one.
I have a KTS and never had this problem, but obviously others have. I found this thread on ECF. And this. Google it and you'll find a few more.
Somewhere in the switch there is resistance causing heat. Interesting to know the switch throw can be modified.
Somewhere in the switch there is resistance causing heat. Interesting to know the switch throw can be modified.
I just received the kts + flat top from fasttech can't get the thing to work. I have agat2, .8x.1 kanthal a1 flat wire, 3/4 wrap around 400 ss mesh (oxidized and no shorts), eh imr 18350, ncr18650b protected Panasonic (tried separately of course). Can't get it to work at all, no heat and no power... The batteries are fully charged on nitecore i4 charger. Put the aga on an electrical battery and it hits great. What could be the issue? Tried lightly sanding the contacts with a dry sponge abrasive side and still no luck. See pics
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Yeah, I had the same problem a few days ago, I have an AGAt2 on top of my KTS+, only difference between our setups is that mine is chrome, yours has gold on it. I just diddled around with the wraps and made sure that the coil was heating up from the inside out, once that problem was taken care of, I have had zero overheating problems on the firing button. I did however, just for comforts sake while I was screwing around with it, put a small piece of cloth on top of the button. Once I couldn't feel it anymore through the cloth, I figured it was safe since its such a thin/conductive piece. As long as you make sure that the wraps are heating properly and not shorting, it shouldn't be a problem. Currently I'm running a .5 ohm dual on it, tis pretty nice.
Switch is comprised of several parts.
All parts are conductive and part of the whole for function
Outer housing/threading
Spring
Button and/or end cap.
Any coating on any part
Any mis-fit or weak contact point
Any excessive play
the switch will need to be corrected.
Heat at point (x) indicates problem at that point.
Sand, do NOT file. Filing removes to much material
Clean with alcohol
Use a wire brush on a Dremmel tool
Anything that will remove foreign contaminents and give Clean metal
All parts are conductive and part of the whole for function
Outer housing/threading
Spring
Button and/or end cap.
Any coating on any part
Any mis-fit or weak contact point
Any excessive play
the switch will need to be corrected.
Heat at point (x) indicates problem at that point.
Sand, do NOT file. Filing removes to much material
Clean with alcohol
Use a wire brush on a Dremmel tool
Anything that will remove foreign contaminents and give Clean metal
We have been here before.
I might be jumping the gun here but 3 posts from people with only a few posts, does this mean that they are new to vaping.
To use mechanicals there needs to be a level of experience, and alot of research. I do not wish to go over old ground but we go through this every now and then, many threads.
Be careful and read up on mechs - Hot is not good.
I apologise if i have upset or insulted anyone.
I might be jumping the gun here but 3 posts from people with only a few posts, does this mean that they are new to vaping.
To use mechanicals there needs to be a level of experience, and alot of research. I do not wish to go over old ground but we go through this every now and then, many threads.
Be careful and read up on mechs - Hot is not good.
I apologise if i have upset or insulted anyone.
I've been vaping for only about 6 months, so nope, not insulted. I tend to meter, pulse, tweak and repeat. Its gotten to the point where I can just meter, tweak and re-meter and I'm good to go.
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