Like T3S but better quality

[Robert Cromwell]

Yep suck too hard or fast and they will get gurgly and or flood pretty much any tank will.

I do mostly lung hits and have to do a long slow draw for that with tootle puffing rigs I use.

 

[DavidOck]

Congrats on getting off the cigs and welcome to the forum.
The Kanger Protank 2 uses the same coils as the T3s, the BCC or single bottom coil. (The version 3 use dual coils). The Protanks are made of stainless steel and pyrex. Learn to rebuild starting with single coils. Get an ohm/voltage meter. The ones sold in the vape shops with the screw on 510/eGo connectors are the best for doing coils. A multimeter is fine if you already have one and a familiar with their use. DON'T build coils without something to test them on. Unless you want to change the resistance of your coils, all you really need to do is re-wick them. Lots of videos, YouTube is your friend.

Well put, but one caveat. The T3S heads will work in the Kanger style bottom single coils. The PT, PT2, Evod heads will NOT work in the T3S. They are slightly bigger in diameter at the part that looks like a flat washer, and won't seat properly in the T3S.

For my toppers of that sort, I also like to use silica for the main wick so I can dry burn a few times. And I use a full strand of 100% cotton yarn for the flavor wick.

As far as winding the coils for them, the above mentioned methods do work fine. Or you can wrap you coil on a 4-40 machine screw. (That's size 4 with 40 threads per inch - get the longest one you can find for easier handling.) Wrapping the kanthal into the threads, with mild tension, produces perfectly spaced coils. Just unscrew when done. It probably won't fit inside the head, but you can slip a small screwdriver back through for assembly.

 

[LewAz]

My Kanger Protank 2 and 5 coils are on order. I'll let you know how I like it.